Tenby, Wales
Charming Seaside Town of Tenby
Wales, a powerhouse of the Industrial Revolution, is part of the United Kingdom together with England, Scotland and Northern Ireland. It’s bordered by the Irish Sea to the north and west, England to the east, the Bristol Channel to the south and the Celtic Sea to the southwest. Its English name is derived from an Anglo-Saxon word meaning ‘foreigners’ or particularly, foreigners who were under the influence of the Roman empire. The country is one of distinctive traditions, heritage and culture, known as a land of song and a country infused with myth and legend. A small nation, Wales is full of friendly faces and covered with awe-inspiring landscapes of rugged mountains, beautiful beaches and miles of coastline.
The small town of Tenby is a charming seaside village along the southwest coast of Wales within Carmarthen Bay. It’s known for its 13th century town walls and stretches of sandy beaches including the beautiful, Castle Beach. Ruins of Tenby Castle overlook the harbor, while exhibits at Tenby Museum and Art Gallery honor Tenby and its relationship with the sea. The town is also home to the Tudor Merchant’s House which recreates domestic life in 1500, along with countless cafes, boutiques and candy shops selling special treats. And just a short drive out of Tenby is Manor Wildlife Park, a self-proclaimed walking safari home to several wild animal species.
Visiting Tenby was one of many stops along my European adventure. It first began in UK’s Iconic City of London and then moved on to Wales, stopping in Cardiff, City of Arcades, and moving west along the coast to the charming seaside town of Tenby. Flying back out of London, I moved south to English Channel’s Isle of Jersey for a few magical days, then ferried over to Saint-Malo, France for an evening. By train, I landed in Nantes, City of the Dukes, and then caught a flight over to Nice la Belle. My last stop was a day trip into Monaco, French Riviera’s Playground.
Blow Into the Sleepy Town of Tenby
Tenby is a harbor town in southwest Wales known for its 13th century medieval town walls and sweeping sandy shoreline, which culminate with the ruins of Tenby Castle perched high atop the sea. The quaint little town nestled against the chilly waters is filled with cafes, gift shops, ice cream parlors and galleries offering unique finds. Reaching Tenby wasn’t tough but required some coordination on my part.
During my stay in Cardiff, I wanted to get more of a feel for Wales, so Tenby it was. About two hours east along the coast, I learned the best way to reach Tenby was by car. Without one, I set up a rental, making sure to request an automatic, and was on my way first thing in the morning. Driving on the left side of the highway had me on edge but I quickly got into the groove, passing smaller towns of interest, like Swansea, along my drive.
With fog covered streets and soft cool rain, I arrived in Tenby, parking along one of its narrow one-way streets near town. The morning was wet and the air was heavy but I was in the mood to explore and hoped the weather might clear throughout the day.
The main street in town sat high above the bay and nearly met the beach and sea below. The beach was dotted with tiny people wrapped up in waterproof jackets and rain boots, and dog owners chased their pets about, leaving footprints in the wet sand.
Continuing down the street, I recognized the candy colored homes overlooking the beach from photos I’d seen previously. The town was even more adorable than I’d imagined and the rain was part of the charm, even though I selfishly wished for clear skies.
Interestingly, this coastal gem and its burst of colors is a relatively recent addition. In the 19th century, the town council mandated homeowners to paint their homes in various shades of color, transforming the strip into quite a sight.
Further into town, boats were docked in the sandy harbor waiting for the tide to rise and gigantic seagulls tempted me with great photo opportunities; I was less interested in the crows.
Tenby also offers fishing expeditions where passengers can catch local bass, dogfish, flounder, coalfish, mackerel, turbot, mullet, conger, gurnard, bream, plaice and trigger fish. Other boat trips focus on observing wildlife like seals or dolphins.
Visitors can also cruise around the harbor or visit islands like Caldey Island, a historic island with a calm atmosphere and Catholic monastery dating back more than 1,000 years, or the further Lundy Island, a nature reserve on a remote island, complete with trails, a lovely lighthouse and wildlife such as seals and puffins.
Savor a Traditional Welsh Breakfast at Fuchsia
After a wander in town it was time to get some food in my stomach, and quick. The drive to Tenby was close to two hours and I was running on fumes. Tucked into a narrow alley and away from the beach is Fuchsia, a hidden jewel and dreamy cafe serving up local fare for breakfast and lunch.
A bit soggy, I entered the cozy cafe and sat myself, admiring the sweet treats on display. Moody and also full of wet dogs, the cafe moved slowly but I wasn’t in a hurry.
Placing my order for a latte, I waited patiently for it to arrive. And wanting to compare my English breakfast experience with a Welsh one, I chose a full Welsh breakfast.
A hearty meal celebrating local traditions and ingredients, my Welsh breakfast included baked beans, local butcher’s sausage, Welsh thick-cut bacon, free range eggs, buttered toast, grilled mushrooms and blistered cherry tomatoes but also has several variations including black pudding. Black pudding is a distinct regional type of blood sausage originating in the United Kingdom and Ireland. It’s made from pork or occasionally beef blood, with pork fat or beef suet, and a grain, usually oats or barley.
The meal was one of generous proportions and was absolutely incredible. I couldn’t have been more pleased but it was far more than I could finish in one sitting. Still, highly recommend.
Admire St. Catherine’s Island
Feeling satisfied, I continued to explore, heading toward St. Catherine’s Island, a small tidal island on Castle Beach reachable during low tide. Known as St. Catherine’s Rock, St. Catherine’s Fort sits snuggly on the rocky island high above the surrounding waters. A Napoleonic fortress, this site was chosen during the Napoleonic Wars as a coastal fortification due to its visibility and proximity to local ports.
Not fully armed until 1886, the fort was erected during the years 1867-1870 and then later sold privately in 1907, eventually landing in the hands of the wealthy Windsor-Richards family. Involved in the South Wales Iron and Steel Industry, the fort was used as a manor and decorated opulently with animal skins, glass trophy cabinets, tapestries and countless other displays of wealth.
Over time, the space became home to many lavish celebrations, like the Tenby Hunt Ball, but was eventually compulsory purchased in 1940 with the interiors auctioned by Harrods. In 1962, a Tenby businessman purchased the land and in 1968 the fort was transformed into a zoo. The zoo only lasted 10 years and eventually relocated, leaving the fortress empty.
On my approach to the fort, I learned the entrance fee could only be paid in cash, so I ended up passing on the opportunity and heading for a view from above.
Making my way through the thick wet sand, I climbed slick stone stairs up a large hill to a cliff overlooking the island.
A path set against a short stone wall looped around the top of the cliff and looked out over the fog covered sea. It was tough to see much of anything through the haze but I could only imagine the view on a clear day.
Below, perched above the beach, was the Old Tenby Lifeboat Station, now a private residence. The station was established in 1852 by the Shipwrecked Mariners’ Society and has historically been part of many heroic endeavors, saving wrecked ships out at sea.
From there, I followed the path and moved toward the Tenby Castle atop of the cliff.
Wander Tenby Castle & the Tenby Museum & Art Gallery
Tenby Castle overlooks St. Catherine’s Fort on a cliff at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. It was founded by the Normans during their invasion of West Wales in the 12th century and in 1153, the castle was captured and destroyed by a future ruler of a southwestern kingdom in Wales.
Then, in 1187, the castle was captured again by the Welsh. Nearly a century later, the town was ravaged by a prince in the northwest of Wales.
By the late 13th century, Tenby Castle and the town had become part of a lordship ruled by the 1st Earl of Pembroke.
This French knight initiated building the famous stone walls surrounding the town and by the 14th century, the town walls were mostly complete, lessening the defensive importance of Tenby Castle. Throughout the next several centuries additional fortifications were built, including various towers.
The castle was again greatly damaged during a siege in the Second English Civil War in the mid-17th century, once again shifting pressure to the town walls as the main defense of Tenby.
Today, the remaining stone structure dates back to the 13th century and can be seen atop the grassy cliff in roughly shaped towers and various other ruins missing their entirety.
The Tenby Museum & Art Gallery is the oldest independent museum in Wales and was established in 1878. The museum has a collection of local geology, biology, archeological and maritime artifacts set in a modest two story building.
The museum is fairly small and informal, with both levels exhibiting interesting objects in various modes of display like natural artifacts, art pieces and digital media.
The museum houses three permanent galleries and two temporary exhibition spaces where the permanent art gallery features work by several artists, particularly Gwen and Augustus John who were born in Tenby. The gallery features works from different stages of their artistic careers including two very early works by Gwen, one of which depicts Tenby. There’s also a showcase of personal memorabilia including Augustus John’s pipe, Gwen’s crucifix and painting smock.
Other galleries explore the prehistory of the area, from the Precambrian times to the Romano-British period dating from the 1st to 5th centuries. The Story of Tenby Gallery traces the history of the town from the 9th century through to the present day and also explores the connection Tenby has with the sea.
The museum was really a catch all for anything and everything that has to do with the history of Tenby. It was fascinating and charming at the same time.
Experience a 15th Century Tudor Merchant's House
The Tudor Merchant's House is a 15th-century townhome located in Tenby and operates as a historic house museum. Built in the late 15th century from lime and sandstone rubble, this narrow town house was once occupied by a wealthy merchant and is the oldest house still standing in Tenby. Typical to those of the time, the home has of three levels with a circular chimney stack and exposed roof trusses.
Today, the home is filled with a gorgeous collection of locally made reproductions. The furnishings, pewter, ceramics and tapestries were perfectly crafted from existing Tudor pieces common for the area and are all on display to enjoy.
The merchant who lived here would have placed his shop or trading area at the front of the house, opening onto the street for easy access to passersby and would have sold goods traded through the port in the harbor like ceramic pots, vinegar, sea coal and wool cloth. The kitchen was placed at the back of the home, centered around a large open fire. And food would have been cooked in hanging iron pots over the fire, which can be raised or lowered to control heat.
In the garden, aromatic herbs would have grown in abundance and been used in the kitchen to add flavor and color to meals. Lavender plants helped keep flies out of the kitchen and created a base for popular scented pomanders, or balls or cages, that contain perfumes, spices, herbs or other fragrant items.
On the second level is the main living area of the house, the hall chamber. Its walls are covered with beautiful tapestries displaying images from the Middle Ages.
In the bed chamber are the clearest views of the coastline and harbor. As darkness grew, the entire family and any guests would have crowded into this one room. The bed was used by the merchant, his wife and any adult guests including family members or visiting traders. It was an impressive status symbol and could hold up to six. Children would have slept on a thin scratchy mattress on the floor made from straw, sawdust or seaweed, while babies were the most comfortable with a crib to themselves.
Tudors had several rituals to achieve a good night’s sleep including sleeping upright to prevent the devil from entering an open mouth and stealing ones soul. They also segmented their sleep, waking for an hour or two during the night to chat or read. Between seven and nine hours of sleep were recommended and too much or too little could cause an imbalance and spiritual or physical dangers.
Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth & Eat at a Local Diner
Up next, I visited a local candy shop called Welsh Sweets & Treats.
The shop was packed with all sorts of special treats, some I recognized and others were new. Traditional Welsh candies include toffee, cakes and fudge but I opted for some salted caramel to take back home.
For lunch, I needed something quick and easy so I stopped at No 25 Cafe, a true diner in every sense of the word. Looking to get in some seafood, I chose the fried shrimp with fries.
Another one of my favorite stops was a souvenir shop called The Nook. Full of so many unusual and unique pieces, the Nook offers handmade goods like art, photography, jewelry, home furnishings and gifts of all kinds.
Circling the shop round and round, I ended up with a wool octopus and a beautiful ceramic wall hook but there were so many other pieces I had my eyes on.
Get Wild at Manor House Wildlife Park
After lunch and with the afternoon winding down, I drove a few minutes to Manor House Wildlife Park, a 52-acre zoo located in Pembrokeshire. More of a rescue center for endangered animals than a zoo, this wildlife park felt like a farm in the middle of nowhere; remote and surrounded by nature. Transformed from a seriously dilapidated and outdated animal park to a world class animal facility, the space was taken over by Colin MacDougal and Anna Ryder Richardson in the Spring of 2008.
Upon entering, I paid the ticket fee and decided to get some feed for the wallabies. I was instructed to head there first, since it was near closing time and the wallabies would be heading in soon.
With freshly washed hands, I slowly entered the Wallaby sanctuary. Soon enough, I spotted several creatures hopping about. Some were paired with their mothers, while others moved about alone.
The animals were interested in the snacks and happy to get pretty close to gobble them up.
A huge trough also offered tons of feed to the wallabies, where several gathered. I circled around the sanctuary, wishing I’d saved some treats for the animals on the opposite side of the enclosure.
The park is home to a variety of animals, big and small, including the wallaby, meerkat, Damara zebra, squirrel monkey, lowland tapir, red bellied lemur, ostrich, Bactrian camel, emu, llama, saki monkey and Visayan warty pig. I did my very best to circle around the park and see as many animals as possible but it was hard to find some of them.
With a mission to protect and secure endangered species ecosystems, animals have been introduced to the natural local landscape. Both single and multi-species enclosures have been built with as little boundaries as possible, giving visitors the impression that animals roam free. Connection is the primary goal of the park; connection with the animals and their environment, connection with the natural surroundings, with the environment and the challenges and threats facing the planet today.
Covered in mud and damp from the rain, I reluctantly left the park and began my drive back to Cardiff. My day in Tenby had turned out to be quite an adventure.
