Quito, Ecuador
It's Hard to Breathe in the Second Highest Capital City of Quito
Quito, Ecuador’s capital, is unique in that it sits at the middle of the world and only has two seasons: wet and dry. It’s located in the Andean foothills on the eastern slopes of Pichincha, an active volcano at an altitude of 9,350 feet, making it the second-highest capital city in the world. The city was built on the foundations of an ancient Incan city and is known for its well-preserved historic center, full of 16th and 17th century architecture that blends European, Moorish and indigenous styles.
My travels to South America began in Cartagena (Viva Colombia!) and moved on to Medellín: The City of Eternal Spring and Salento's Valley of Palms, with Quito as my final destination. From there, day trips to the Cloud Forests, Butterfly Gardens & Chocolate Bars of Mindo and Otavalo's Equator Lines & Volcano Lakes were something quite magical.
With one-way tickets, one into Colombia and the other out of Ecuador, I was able to keep my plans loose and adjust as needed. But cautionary tale, flights from Colombia to Ecuador are costly and bus rides long and grueling. Also, make sure to allow time to adjust to the high elevation; it'll likely take a few days but if you can get your hands on some coca leaves a hot tea will help relieve your symptoms.
Explore Old Town's Plaza Grande
After waking up disoriented from traveling for two solid days from Salento, I began the morning with breakfast at Mogens Pod Hostel. Before running out, I grabbed a city map marking suggested routes on foot and hopped on the trolley downtown with my hostel-mate.
Just a few stops away is Old Town and at the center, Plaza Grande. The square was bustling with all kinds of people including tourists, students, performers and locals.
And just around the corner is Iglesia de la Compañía. Iglesia de la Compañía had a $5 USD entrance fee but didn't allow photos to be taken. Imagine gold covered everything, from floor to ceiling. It all sparkled, gold. Personally, I could have skipped the visit inside as I tend to find the exterior of churches much more interesting.
Moving on, we began to explore the streets. One of my favorite things to see as I travel are doors - doors to homes, doors to churches, any doors really, especially anywhere with history. Old cities have such beautifully carved wooden doors, often times with gorgeous metal details. I can only imagine the amount of time and energy put into each piece.
Capilla de Cantuña sits facing Plaza San Francisco. The entire plaza was littered with pigeons, hundreds of them. Nuns wandered about, peeking inside the Chapel, almost as if they were lost. The Chapel houses an art collection and offers tours but we decided to keep moving.
Catch Views at El Panecillo
For just a few dollars you can hail a taxi up to the highest point in the city and marvel at views of the entire cityscape. It was later explained to me weather in Quito is very humid and temperamental due to it's location between the sea and Amazon, along with the high altitude.
Plus, I had heard horror stories from other travelers that the altitude in Quito is so intense you can expect to be stuck in bed for a day or two alleviating nausea. Luckily, my time in Colombia helped me assimilate to the altitude and I didn't have any issues.
The views from the top are stunning. Seeing Quito from above; the line between the new and old city is so clear. The new city is completely white in architecture, while the old is shades of beige and grey.
El Panecillo stands at the highest point and overlooks the city. A monument of Madonna, made with 7,000 pieces of aluminum at an elevation of 9,895 feet, she’s visible from all of Quito below.
And because the city is so high you're able to watch clouds roll in over the mountains. They tend to hover over Quito and stick between the mountains swirling in the air. It's an amazing thing to experience, almost felt like a dream.
Visit Basílica de Voto Nacional
The next stop for the day was Basílica del Voto Nacional. The Basilica of the National Vow is a Roman Catholic church located in the historic center of Quito and is the largest neo-Gothic basilica in the Americas.
Unfortunately, we arrived late and weren't able to do much more than peak inside but the sheer size of the Basílica was overwhelming. It sits on the side of a busy street so it's fairly tough to get a great photo as cars are zooming by.
The two of us walked around the back of the Basílica where there were three huge doors serving as exits. They were beautifully carved and framed with enormous archways and such intricate detail. Scale-wise, the doors were pretty incredible.
After poking around outside the Basílica we began exploring the streets again. On the way to an arts district, we bumped into a man selling beautiful crabs. The vendor was surprised I had never seen this variety before.
Stroll Down Calle de la Ronda
Pulling from one of the walking tours on my map, la Calle de la Ronda is a street where local artisans and craft makers sell their handmade goods. Inside Zabala Artes, a man was busy carving wooden tops where I picked up a few for my little niece and nephew.
There was also a cute shop selling organic products made of honey and a chocolate boutique with teas and nuts. So hard to resist, I purchased some nuts I had never seen before called Inca peanuts. They're some kind of super food and taste delicious, along with some products made of honey.
On our way back toward the hostel there was a shop selling fruit alongside the street. This new fruit tasted like a cherry grape cranberry but mostly cranberry with a pit inside. And that was that; what a beautiful city. Next up would be day trips to both Mindo and Otavalo before heading home.
Quito, Ecuador @ Mogens Pod Hostel
Mogens Pod Hostel is a real special place. The owners are amazing - they woke up early and stayed up late to accommodate my travel schedule. The facilities are wonderful. Everything is new and clean. You get your own bunk and locker below. While I was there, they were having an issue with plumbing so bathrooms were closed at times but the water was nice and hot.
Breakfast was delicious but a bit pricey. The owners were more than happy to prepare meals even before the kitchen opened. The location is perfect - a little way off from the crazy nightlife but still central. Employees should know more about local activities/tours and possibly offer them from the hostel. I ended up visiting a local tour agency to schedule day tours.
