Cartagena, Colombia
Viva Colombia!
Coffee and cocaine. Those were the two things I knew about Colombia before my arrival. And amazingly enough, I learned about each, coffee details to follow in Salento's Valley of Palms. As far as cocaine is concerned, five grams of the best stuff costs $100 USD and is easy to obtain although we were warned not to buy it off the street.
It had been over a year since my last trip and I was getting itchy travel feet. Colombia offered my first experience in South America, along with a cheap flight and gorgeous sunny weather; the perfect storm for an amazing adventure.
As I often do with longer trips, I bought one-way tickets into Colombia and out of Ecuador two weeks later. The plan was to visit as many cities as possible while getting a good feel for each one along the way. My first stop was Cartagena, a port city on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, and then on to Medellín: The City of Eternal Spring and Salento's Valley of Palms, ultimately ending in Quito, Ecuador. Of course, It's Hard to Breathe in the Second Highest Capital City of Quito but the city did offer some incredible day trips to the Cloud Forests, Butterfly Gardens & Chocolate Bars of Mindo and Otavalo's Equator Lines & Volcano Lakes.
After a rough start of delayed flights and missed connections, I was forced to spend the night in Atlanta. Thirty-six hours later, I arrived in Cartagena, hungry as ever. Immediately after dropping my luggage at El Arsenal Hostel Boutique, I ran out for my first meal. Fresh mango juice and ceviche couldn't reach my table fast enough.
Drink Colombian Coffee
Good morning, Cartagena! After a good night's rest, I woke ready to take on the city. Up first was Colombian coffee. When I asked where I could get a cup, I was told Juan Valdez Cafe; "It's just like your Starbuck's but better." Too bad I'm not much of a black coffee drinker but I was pleased with black tea, milk, espresso and sugar (my version of a dirty chai latte).
Marvel at Street Art
As always, my plan was to get a feel for the city by foot so I took off from my hostel toward the castle, Fortificaciones de Cartagena de Indias. The city felt gritty and warm, friendly and full of history. Hot garbage sat out along the sidewalks and stray dogs frequently passed by. Music was in the air. Along the streets, graffiti covered the walls. Most were vibrantly colored images of beautiful women and children.
Explore Fortificaciones Cartagena de Indias
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas as it’s known in English, is a fortress built in 1536 by the Spanish during the colonial era. The castle was built in a strategic location on the Hill of San Lázaro to dominate approaches to the city by land or sea. Between the late 17th to early 19th centuries the fortress was involved in several battles involving European powers and received an expansion in 1658. After it was no longer used for military purposes the castle fell into disrepair and was covered with vegetation but has since been opened for visitors, with only some of the tunnels open to viewing.
In 1984, UNESCO listed the castle, along with the historic center of the city of Cartagena, a World Heritage Site. And since 1990, the fortress has been used as a location for social and cultural events offered by the Colombian government.
As I reached the castle, loads of tourists were rushing into the gates. The heat was incredible as it must have been over 90 degrees, even so early in the morning. After entering, I made my way through a number of tunnels climbing all the way to the top, exploring passageways and secret rooms along the way.
Just about the only refreshing thing offered at the top of the castle was a lime juice I gulped down in a few seconds so be sure to bring your own bottle of water to cool off. The view was definitely worth the climb, with clear skies you could see all the way to the ocean and beyond.
Wander the Walled City
Within walking distance from the castle, 15 minutes or so, is the Walled City of Cartagena or what locals call Old Town. Inside the walls, I spent the rest of the day getting lost, taking in its tasty restaurants, ice cream shops, gift stores and breathtaking architecture. The colors were mesmerizing, the energy contagious and the spirit of Cartagena was definitely alive.
Being a student of design, I found myself enamored by all the colorful entryways and accompanying metalwork. Huge wooden doors with intricate details sat waiting at every entrance. I must’ve taken dozens of photos of these gorgeous doors. One day, when I have a home of my own, my door will look like this one, full of character and personality.
In the center of Old City is Parque Bolivar. Tourists can buy local souvenirs or sit and watch live performers in the park. Feeling exhausted, I sat down to rest my achy feet after taking an incredible 24,047 steps. Keep in mind, the city is a maze so expect to get lost. Also, be sure to wear sunscreen in the walled city as there isn't much protection from the scorching sun.
Near the entrance of the walled city, there's a beautiful square to relax and watch the goings-on around you; tourists wandering about and vendors selling fruit, hats and selfie sticks. Iglesia San Pedro Claver Cartagena sat at its center and I was lucky enough to catch a photo of the square later in the day when most visitors had disappeared.
Earlier that morning, my hostel suggested watching the sun set from a vantage point high up on the surrounding wall so that was the plan. But first, just before sunset I sat down for a quick bite in the plaza near Cafe del Mar. It was time to try Colombia's typical food (un plato de la comida tipica de Colombia) which included pescado, arroz, platacones y ensalada. Everything was incredible, especially the fish but beware of tiny bones.
Relax Under the Caribbean Sunset
The cafe near the water looked busy and overpriced so I rested on the wall to watch the sun disappear into the ocean. As I was resting, two fellow travelers approached, a Canadian and German, who had met years earlier while backpacking. We began talking and since they had forgotten their phones, I took a few photos of them as we sat drinking a beer.
One of my favorite things to do while traveling is sharing stories with other wanderers. Back at home, so many are afraid to venture off on their own but I enjoy the freedom and flexibility, plus you meet so many others who are on a similar journey. Discovering what you're capable of when you have no one else to rely on is priceless.
The sunset was incredible and the travelers I met told me how the thick wall surrounding the city had been made of coral. You could even see the tiny bits of sea life if you looked closely.
The three of us decided to take our beers to the street and roam around the city until dark. Live performers were dancing in Parque Bolivar and the guys introduced me to their favorite street food, some kind of potato pancake. At some point we parted ways but I was so grateful for such an incredible first day in Cartagena.
Unwind at Isla del Encanto
The next morning, I woke fairly early to arrange a pick up to the island, Isla del Encanto. My first choice, Isla del Sol, was booked due to my last minute scheduling and I had to pay a bit more for Isla del Encanto but it was worth every penny, 161,000 Colombian pesos plus 15,000 in taxes or about $60 USD.
Many others I spoke with had arranged trips to Islas Rosarios and ended up at beach fronts occupied by hotel guests. For me, secret spots are always far more fascinating than those packed full of tourists. Word is there’s also a local beach that's pretty popular but I wanted something more remote.
My hostel offered a free breakfast each morning, as many do, and it was enough to start to the day. With only a few minutes to grab a quick bite before the tour van arrived, we were off to the docks. By boat it took an hour to reach the island and we were lucky enough to see dolphins on the way.
The beaches of Isla del Encanto were very nice, however, nothing compared to so many throughout Asia and the Caribbean. The island was clean and not too busy, surrounded by tranquil calm waters. The weather felt tropical, dry and peaceful. For lunch, our tour offered a buffet of fish and chicken with veggies.
As I relaxed, I drank fruit juice on the beach while sunbathing and people watching. What made the biggest impression on me was the music that filled the air. It brought a fun welcoming energy to the island. In the afternoon, we took the boat back to Cartagena.
Dine at Restaurante la Mulata
Although I was exhausted after a long day in the sun I took the recommendation from my hostel and made my way back into Old Town for dinner at Restaurante la Mulata. And boy, was I happy I made the trip; the food was out of this world.
Plantain chips and cheesy garlic dip were brought to my table almost immediately. For an appetizer, I ordered Ceviche Mixto Antillano made of sea bass, squid, shrimp and octopus. And although I didn't need it, Camarones al Ajillo (shrimp with garlic) for the main course. Everything was so rich and full of flavor, garlicky with a touch of acid.
The following morning marked my first day of travel to a new location as I had picked up a flight to Medellín for $40 USD through Viva Colombia airline.
Medellín: The City of Eternal Spring
Medellín, Colombia
El Arsenal Hostel Boutique
El Arsenal Hostel Boutique left me with mixed feelings. The employees were great for the most part, super helpful with really nice recommendations. Make sure you head over to Restaurante la Mulata in the Walled City and take a day trip to la Isla del Encanto.
I did have to complain about the ladies restroom because they were pretty gross at times (even though they claimed someone just cleaned them). And I had a strange run-in at breakfast. I was running late for the island trip and was trying to get something, ANYTHING, to eat on the go. It caused a huge problem and was very frustrating.
The location was great for me, far enough away from the noisy busy areas but close enough to walk to all the sites. Breakfast and WiFi were good but no hot showers. I later heard that no hostels in Cartagena use hot showers.
