Cusco, Peru
Once the Capital of the Inca Empire
Peru is such a magical place, one of my favorite destinations by far and I was lucky enough to experience it with a native and close friend as my guide. Peru is located in South America and most well known for Machu Picchu, an ancient Incan city high in the Andes mountains, but it’s home to so much more. In the regions surrounding Machu Picchu there are a number of archeological sites including the Sacred Valley, Inca Trail and colonial city of Cusco.
Peru is also home to a portion of the Amazon rainforest and has a history rich in diverse cultural influences including those from Mestizos (peoples of mixed European and Indigenous heritage), Amerindians, Europeans, Africans and Asians. It’s the richness of the land and its people that make Peru not only a stunning country visually but one that will connect with your heart and soul through its art, cuisine, music and dance.
Before arriving in Cusco, I enjoyed 24 Hours in Lima to meet up with my Peruvian friend, Esau, and then moved on to the Islands Made of Rock & Tropical Deserts of Paracas, Dune Buggy Rides & Wine Tastings in Huacachina and The White City of Arequipa. From Arequipa, I planned a day trip Hiking Peru’s Epic Colca Canyon and then traveled on to Cusco. From Cusco, I would have a Near-Death Experience on Rainbow Mountain, tour Sacred Valley: Peru’s Andean Highlands and experience Machu Picchu: A Dream Come True.
Getting to Cusco from Arequipa was simple and less than $50 USD through Peru Air. Our morning flight was delayed about an hour but worth the wait. After takeoff the view was incredible. Right outside my window you could see ash and smoke rising from Volcano Misti, an active volcano last erupting in 1985. Note, many flights within Peru do not run on schedule so it’s best to be flexible.
Book Train Tickets to Machu Picchu
Straight away, Esau and I went to the local train station for tickets to Machu Picchu. Because he’s Peruvian he can only buy tickets there and not at the airport. It’s super important to buy tickets a few days in advance during low season and even further out in high season. Otherwise, tickets will sell out as they only allow a certain number of visitors to the base of Machu Picchu. Keep in mind, these are train tickets only, not tickets to enter the site of Machu Picchu.
Tickets are limited and a bit confusing to figure out on your own. Basically, before entering Machu Picchu you can either stay in Aguascalientes, the town right below Machu Picchu, or an hour away in Ollantaytambo. If you stay in Ollantaytambo, you'll need to take the train in the morning over to Aguascalientes. Once in Aguascalientes, you're at the base of Machu Picchu and will only need to take the bus up the mountain or hike the peak.
Esau thought it would be nice for me to experience the train ride during daylight so we decided to stay the night in Ollantaytambo and travel by train to Aguascalientes in the morning. The train ride was definitely gorgeous but after seeing how cute the little town of Aguascalientes was I'd love to stay there if given another chance.
At the time of my visit, Machu Picchu ticket options were as follows (round-trip):
Ollantaytambo 8:00 a.m. - Machu Picchu 9:25 a.m.; Machu Picchu 6:20 p.m. - Ollantaytambo 8:05 p.m. $105
Urubamba 10:30 a.m. - Machu Picchu 1:34 p.m.; Machu Picchu 6:10 p.m. - Ollantaytambo 7:51 p.m. $180
Ollantaytambo 1:27 p.m. - Machu Picchu 2:50 p.m.; Machu Picchu 8:53 a.m. - Ollantaytambo 10:52 a.m. $90
Ollantaytambo 1:27 p.m. - Machu Picchu 2:50 p.m.; Machu Picchu 9:50 p.m. - Ollantaytambo 11:35 p.m. $95
Ollantaytambo 6:10 a.m. - Machu Picchu 7:40 a.m.; Machu Picchu 6:10 p.m. - Ollantaytambo 7:51 p.m. $125
The first option worked great for us and Esau was able to get a combination of tickets: one way on the nicer train and the other on a local train. A certain number of locals are able to get deeply discounted tickets to Machu Picchu by traveling on less fancy trains. Esau paid $3 USD on the way back for a standing ticket while I paid nearly $60 USD.
Explore Spanish Colonial Architecture
Kokopelli Hostel Cusco sits in the center of town and is definitely a hot spot for backpackers. The two of us checked in and took off on foot to Greens for a bite to eat. Greens is a well known organic cafe with steep prices and tasty food. My latte, smoothie and salad were absolutely incredible while Esau chose an alpaca wrap which was also delicious. If you’re looking for a great view, grab seats upstairs overlooking the city center.
With full bellies, the two of us began to explore the city. Located high in the Peruvian Andes, Cusco was the capital and cultural heart of the Inca Empire with the city’s main plaza, Plaza de Armas, serving as one of the empire’s most precious gathering spots. And although the Spanish altered so much of the area by destroying local temples and replacing them with mansions and churches, the site has remained the centerpiece for religious, social and political life in Cusco.
Today, the city is known for its Spanish colonial architecture paired with the archaeological remains of the Incas. But beyond political importance, Plaza de Armas is anchored by two of the city’s most well known religious buildings, the Church La Compañía de Jesús and the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin. Accompanying these breathtaking structures, central square is also full of carved wooden balconies, arcades and Inca ruins that surely do not disappoint.
Most notably, when the Spanish invaded, they built the baroque style Santo Domingo Convent on top of the Inca Temple of the Sun, Qoricancha. The convent still has archaeological remains of Inca stonework and is gorgeous at night so make sure to pass by if you get the opportunity (not shown).
If you start to wander down some of the smaller side streets connecting to Plaza de Armas you might bump into women from the countryside who make daily trips into Cusco to pose with tourists for tips. If you'd like a photo with a baby llama make sure you offer up a few soles in exchange. Multiple women may rush you and become aggressive requesting more money but it’s best to be fair and clear about the exchange before you take any photos.
Stumble Onto the Incredible Twelve Angled Stone
Even deeper into town you'll stumble upon a very famous stone down a tiny cobblestone street. The Twelve Angled Stone was previously used in an Inca palace and is now part of the palace of the Archbishop of Cusco. It's an example of how perfect Inca architecture truly was. The wall was built without the aid of mortar or any kind of binding material and you can’t even slide a piece of paper between the stones as they fit perfectly together.
Later on, Esau and I found a local restaurant off a small side street offering "el menu" for eight soles which included lomo saltado, soup and a cup of tea. You sure can't complain when your meal costs less than $3 USD.
Before closing, we stopped in a few tourist offices to gather information on the best sites to visit. The following day would be my solo trip and hike up Rainbow Mountain and then Esau and I would explore Sacred Valley: Peru’s Andean Highlands. Our hostel was offering a Rainbow Mountain tour for 120 soles but this shop only wanted 60 soles, so make sure to shop around. That being said, take extreme caution during poor weather conditions and make sure all safety requirements are met.
Near-Death Experience on Rainbow Mountain
Vinicunca, Peru
Kokopelli Hostel Cusco
Kokopelli is a tough stay for me. In a previous life I would have enjoyed it much more but found the stay to be pretty obnoxious. The hostel is huge and people were constantly coming and going, creating a ton of noise. There’s also an open air rooftop allowing guests to smoke indoors and bags can be kept at the front but it’s a hassle to get them in and out.
The location is great, right near the city center and breakfast was really nice. Things seemed clean enough and Kokopelli offers free tea near the communal area. Overall, unless you’re in your 20’s and looking for friends, don’t bother.
