Huacachina, Peru
Dune Buggy Rides & Wine Tastings in Huacachina
Huacachina is a tiny village and desert oasis just west of the city Ica in southwestern Peru. At its center are bright green waters of the Huacachina Lagoon, thought to have therapeutic properties and surrounded by gorgeous palm tress. The lagoon’s shores are dotted with restaurants and bars that overlook the waters. And dune buggies fly across the tall, rolling sands surrounding the village.
Two exciting weeks in Peru were just beginning with 24 Hours in Lima to join my Peruvian friend, Esau, and then, Islands Made of Rock & Tropical Deserts of Paracas and Dune Buggy Rides & Wine Tastings in Huacachina. After Huacachina, we’d travel on to The White City of Arequipa and take a day tour Hiking Peru’s Epic Colca Canyon. Finally it was on to Cusco, Once the Capital of the Inca Empire, where I’d have a Near-Death Experience on Rainbow Mountain, tour Sacred Valley: Peru’s Andean Highlands and explore Machu Picchu: A Dream Come True.
It was time to leave Paracas and move on to the gorgeous oasis town of Huacachina. Esau and I woke early to pack up and check out. With a few chicken tamales in hand and coffee from a nearby cafe we were ready to hit the road.
The bus from Paracas to Huacachina took about an hour. It was packed but comfortable. Later on, I learned that someone had stolen my favorite sneakers right out of my bag as it rested above my seat. As always, make sure to watch your things carefully and always best to carry a small lock to place on your belongings even when they are in close proximity.
Admire a Real Life Oasis
Ica, a nearby town, was our first bus stop and then a few minutes later, our destination of Huacachina. Just as soon as we stepped off the bus we realized our stay, The Upcycled Hostel, was a bit outside of town so we jumped into a motor taxi for five soles and were on our way.
During check in, our hostel informed us about needing to book the dunes tours fairly early to secure a spot. Options were to either book with the hostel for a small fee or head back into town for a slightly cheaper price. Esau and I decided we’d head back for lunch anyhow and book the tour in town. The best price we found for a two-hour sunset tour was 30 soles ($8 USD) so we booked for the same evening.
With some time to waste, we found an incredible oasis at the center of town. Giant palm trees surrounded a small lagoon with enormous dunes as the backdrop. People were busy paddle boating around the lake as kids swam near the shore. I've never seen anything like it, like something out of a storybook.
The Huacachina Lagoon is green in color and thought to have therapeutic properties which lure travelers to its waters. Surrounding the area are loads of bars and restaurants making it a perfect little destination in the middle of nowhere.
Our dunes tour began at 4 p.m. so we had enough time to grab a bite eat. Esau and I left the oasis looking for a less touristy spot up near the entrance of the town, the only area with local prices.
A set menu offered seco de pollo with rice, a salad and chicha morada for ten soles. Esau recommended seco de pollo because he loves the sauce and its a tough dish to find. The sauce is made with onion, chili pepper, garlic and cilantro and was quite delicious. He also mentioned that the low prices for “el menu” might not always apply for tourists, so keep that in mind. Chicha morada, a sweet purple corn drink, was one of my favorites throughout my time in Peru.
Hold On Tight for a Magical Sunset Dunes Tour
When we bought tickets, Esau and I begged the man to give us front row seats in the buggy so we'd have the best view, similar to a roller coaster. And with that in mind, we were the first ones to hop into our buggy. The anticipation was killing us but we were kept busy by a sweet little girl selling soda and water as we were waiting.
After waiting for what seemed like forever and tons of commotion, our dune buggy was finally packed with riders and ready to go. Luckily, I brought sunglasses in anticipation of sand flying everywhere and wore comfortable clothes just in case we wanted to sand board. You don’t want sand in all the wrong places so swimsuits or similar aren’t the best option.
As the sun began to set, the buggies lined up one by one, all heading straight into the desert. Our driver started off slowly and then began to pick up speed. The hills were so big that we had to get a “running start” or we wouldn't make it up and over. The best was when the hills would drop off right at the tippy top and your stomach would fly up into your throat.
Our driver even played tricks on us. Just as we were at the top of a hill about to drop off, he'd point in the opposite direction so we wouldn't expect what was coming next. A few times, he'd stop the buggy and we'd all get out to rest our nerves. Most of the riders tried sand boarding but Esau and I wandered around the hills taking photos and enjoying the views instead. Looking back, I should've tried it at least once as it looked like so much fun and a super rare opportunity.
Each time we drove over a hill we'd fly out of our seats. The only thing keeping us inside the buggy were our loose seat belts. The ride was incredible and I had so much fun but I think Esau got a little frightened as he was holding on for dear life.
It was so magical being plopped right into the middle of a desert. For as far as you could see in all directions, there were hills of creamy sand. Once in a while you’d see another buggy cruising along in the distance or tip over the edge of an enormous mound and disappear.
On the tops of the sand dunes it was quite windy and bits of sand were flying in all directions, covering you from head to toe. Sand found its way into each and every crevasse.
After some time the sun began to set and the tour wound down. We had the option to stay up in the hills or catch a ride back into town so we chose to stay in the desert, relaxing in the sand and enjoying the sun as it set behind the dunes. The sky was incredible shades of orange, pink and purple mixed with big fluffy clouds.
After the sun set, Esau and I walked back into town for dinner finding a local spot serving beef with rice and potatoes for eight soles. To finish the night, we visited a rooftop bar called Moskito. Moskito offered two for one cocktails, a classic Pisco sour with a twist, maracuya sour, for 15 soles. The drinks were great and so was the view, right over the lagoon.
The next day, we’d spend the morning exploring the surrounding areas and then head out to The White City of Arequipa. Our best option for transportation turned out to be an overnight bus out of Ica at 9 p.m. so we were left with the day to explore.
Tour the Oldest Winery in South America
First thing in the morning, Esau and I ate a small breakfast of eggs, bread, juice and tea at the hostel. After checkout we drove into Ica in search of an ATM, storing our luggage at the hostel. Note, Huacachina is extremely tiny and does not have any ATM’s in town.
After passing though Ica I was thankful we had decided to stay in Haucachina. Ica was busy, packed full of cars and people; I could hardly believe how crowded it felt. From Ica, we hopped into a taxi to Tacama, the oldest winery in South America. The ride was less than 10 miles but took forever to reach, weaving through traffic and over bumpy dusty roads. Make sure to bargain on pricing because we were taken advantage of on the way.
Tacama offers a few different tours for its guests. At noon was the traditional tour and the only one given in English. It's 50 minutes long and costs 10 soles. Alternatively, if you'd like to learn more about the history and architecture there's a 40 minute tour for 25 soles. Since Tacama is one of the few surviving haciendas in the area, I'd imagine it's pretty interesting. Additionally, if you’d like to combine both these options, you may.
Esau and I chose the traditional tour covering the entire wine-making process, as well as a tasting. An introductory video explained much about wine and the historical vineyard of Tacama. The vineyard grows 23 grape varieties and uses 18 of them for wines. They make both red and white wine. Tacama also uses grapes to produce a fermented alcohol called Pisco. Pisco contains 42-44% alcohol and is a staple in Peru.
After the video, the group entered the processing area where workers were sorting grapes. We learned about the fermentation process and saw huge barrels used to store the wine. During the wine tasting, we were offered three varieties ranging from dry and bitter to super sweet. We also tried Pisco in a small shot glass. Everything was wonderful.
Wander the Streets of San Jose & Ica
After the tour finished, Esau and I caught a ride with a few other travelers into San Jose, a tiny town nearby. We explored the sleepy little town and stopped off for something to eat, soup and beef with sauce and beans.
The area felt a little deserted but it was nice to have a few quiet hours to ourselves.
Esau asked around and learned that just around the corner a "collectivo" would arrive. A collectivo is a shared ride in either a taxi or small bus. They're great because the price is super cheap but it is shared with others. Back in Ica we wandered the main plaza and then caught another taxi back to our hostel for six soles.
For the next few hours we relaxed at our hostel before beginning our overnight bus at 9 p.m. The Upcycled Hostel is super cute and cozy and the backdrop is amazing. All you can see are giant hills of sand and bright blue sky. There’s even a pool in the center of the hostel.
From the hostel, Esau and I took a taxi to the bus station in Ica; we had reserved seats on an overnight bus to Arequipa with Cruz del Sur for 100 soles. The bus wasn't bad, a double decker, but felt cramped. They served a late dinner and breakfast too, just so so. Throughout the night I woke up often because of stormy weather. Our bus was whipping around sharp corners high up in the mountains and I was so happy I couldn't see out the windows. Twelve hours later, the bus safely arrived in Arequipa.
The White City of Arequipa
Arequipa, Peru
The Upcycled Hostel
The Upcycled Hostel is very clean and super cute. Everyone there was really nice and helpful; it seemed to be family owned. A dog and a few cats wander the grounds. The black cat snuck into our room and cuddle up on your bed, unwilling to leave.
Our private room was spacious with everything one would need. The showers are hot but will run out if you take too long. A light breakfast is provided and WiFi is pretty good. The hostel has a ton of outdoor space to relax and even a swimming pool. It's set against the gorgeous hills of Huacachina.
