Greater Montenegro
Lovćen’s Mausoleum, Royal Old Capital & Skadar Lake
Montenegro is a Balkan country located at the southern end of the Dinaric Alps. It’s known for stunning landscapes of sprawling mountains, glacial lakes and narrow beaches along the Adriatic coastline. A mecca for UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Montenegro lands seventh for protected areas, including the fascinating medieval village of Kotor set in the picturesque Bay of Kotor. The country is also home to the deepest canyon in Europe, Tara River Canyon, set within Durmitor National Park. But natural wonders are not all Montenegro has to offer; it’s a land of significant historical and cultural background, dating back to the 10th century. And though a newer country, only reaching independence in 2006, this hidden gem is full of friendly faces, delicious seafood and a buzzing energy that’s undeniable.
Greater Montenegro is characterized by countless historical landmarks and stunning scenery. Lovćen’s Mausoleum is nestled in Lovćen, a mountain and national park in southwestern Montenegro. It’s the inspiration behind the country’s original name, Crna Gora, meaning Black Mountain, which references Mount Lovćen when covered with dense forests. At Lovćen, the Mausoleum of Njegoš entombs Petar II Petrović-Njego, a Prince-Bishop of Montenegro, poet and philosopher whose works are widely considered some of the most important in Montenegrian and Serbian literature. The Royal Old Capital, Cetinje, was active until 1945 and is home to palaces and fortified monasteries, along with residences of Montenegrin prince-bishops. Even so, it’s quiet, a town that almost feels forgotten. Skadar Lake, also called Lake Scutari, Lake Shkodër and Lake Shkodra, lies on the border of Albania and Montenegro and is the largest lake in Southern Europe.
Landing first in Dubrovnik, Pearl of the Adriatic, I set aside two weeks to explore both Croatia and Montenegro. As luck would have it, I was able to book a day trip from Dubrovnik into Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Little Gem of the Balkans. Then, I moved north up the coast by ferry to Split, a Dalmatian Seaside City Brimming with Roman Ruins and Natural Splendor, also jumping on a speedboat to visit the Blue Cave and Island Hopping. My last stop in Croatia was central, exploring Plitviče Lakes National Park. Leaving Croatia, I passed through its capital, Zagreb, and flew to Podgorica, Montenegro’s capital, ultimately making my way to Adriatic’s Coastal Medieval Town of Kotor. While there, I joined day trips to both northern Montenegro’s Durmitor National Park, Tara Canyon & Ostrog Monastery and greater Montenegro to experience Lovćen’s Mausoleum, Royal Old Capital and Skadar Lake.
Catch Views High Above the Bay from the Serpentine
Early in the morning, after booking a day trip with 360 Monte to Greater Montenegro, I passed through Mon Bistro Cafétéria for a latte and pastry. Sleepily, I made my way to the tour agency at the edge of Kotor Old Town to meet up with the rest of my group. After everyone arrived, we loaded up into a white passenger van and were on our way. Heading toward Njegusi Village for a light morning snack, we stopped along Kotor Serpentine, also called the Ladder of Kotor, for foggy morning photos of Kotor Bay.
The Ladder of Kotor is located along Cetinje to Kotor Panoramic Road and winds from the fields of Cetinje at the base of Lovćen Mountain to Kotor, one of Montenegro’s most beautiful bays, historically home to traders and sailors.
The road follows an old caravan trail dating back to Roman times, while in the 1880s a wagon route was carved from the mountainside. In 1897, the Austrians built the road that exists today. The most famous section of the road is called Kotor Serpentine, a five-mile stretch made up of 16 hairpin turns. Starting at 450 feet in elevation, the turns travel upward nearly 1,400 feet to an elevation of 2,890 feet.
Half cast in shadow and covered with a light fog, Kotor Bay was absolutely picture perfect early this morning. This high up also provided a much needed perspective of the towns below.
Our group stopped more than once, gaining height and catching views along the way. Eventually, the sky cleared, becoming a deep blue, making it possible to see across the bay. It was a wonderful way to experience the Bay of Kotor, far removed and silently observing.
Try Local Specialties at Kod Pera na Bukovicu
Restaurant Kod Pera na Bukovica is the oldest establishment of its type in Montenegro, first opening in 1881. The tavern is owned by its founders, the Milošević family, and named in honor of its founder, Pero Milosevic, who helped make the tavern well known in the Balkans and beyond. After retiring, his daughter-in-law took ownership, followed by her son, Branislav, and then his sons, and so on. Today, workers continue to be family members, creating a warm welcome upon arrival.
The tavern sits in the village of Njeguši along a panoramic road leading from Kotor to Cetinje, dipping into a valley and leaving the majestic views behind. Inside the tavern, it’s dark and weathered, remaining mostly untouched all these years. Onsite is also an old drying room used to cure meat the traditional way. Guests are offered a chance to tour the room and learn the preparation process, as well as sample a shot glass worth of homemade grape brandy called rakija, a Medovina drink typically made from fermented and distilled plums, grapes, apricots, pears, cherries, or raspberries and less commonly, peaches, apples, figs, blackberries and quince. Before bottling, rakija can be blended with honey, sour cherries, walnuts and herbs and can be as high as 80 proof.
Lucky enough to experience the tour ourselves, our group followed the guide into the dank drying room and prepared for our shots straightaway. Montenegro’s rakija, similar to its Balkan counterparts, stands out as a national treasure. Though this potent spirit is traditionally made from various fruits, the šljivovica or plum rakija remains the most cherished.
With a clink of our glasses, we downed the shot, pleasantly surprised but taken back. It was hard to see much else in the room as it was so dark, only a sliver of light passed through the doorway.
The tavern also offers typical Njegu specialties like its famous air-dried ham called Njeguški pršut, which is similar to prosciutto, along with cheese, sausage, olives, tomato and bread.
Running on empty, I made sure to sample each and every bite, not only because I was starving but because it was a special treat to taste such local bites as others have done for over 100 years.
And for a little pick me up, I requested a café with milk which arrived in a tiny cup full of foam.
What a lovely stop, if only, we could have stayed longer and enjoyed more treats.
Climb Mount Lovćen to Visit the Mausoleum of Njegoš
After making friends with the local pup and finishing up our tasty snacks at Kod Pera na Bukovicu tavern, our group lead by Milo, was on its way. Our next stop would be Mount Lovćen, a mountain and national park in southwestern Montenegro known for being home to Petar Petrović Njegoš's Mausoleum.
After a quick 10 minute drive, we parked near the entrance and unloaded onto a narrow street. Even there, the views were already breathtaking. The horizon was layered with silhouettes of mountain peaks, one after another in varying shades of blue, brown and black. We began to climb, one steep step at a time. Turning back around, I could see the circular lookout point and cafe.
Up ahead, was a large stone wall carved into the mountainside with an arched doorway. We’d be walking right through the mountain itself. Our guide was speedy, so we all did our best to hurry along and not get scolded.
Once inside the tunnel, it was a glorious white plaster with light and shadow playing on its walls and arched ceiling. It was quiet and peaceful. The national park itself covers the central and highest part of the mountain’s peak, reaching approximately 24 square miles. Becoming a national park in 1952, it’s home to and protects a significant cultural, historical and architectural history of Montenegro. The most important monument of Lovćen National Park is of course, Petar Petrović Njegoš's Mausoleum. Constructed in 1971, the location of his burial place and mausoleum lies at the summit of Mount Lovćen and were chosen by Njegoš himself.
Petar II Petrović-Njegoš, commonly referred to as Njegoš, was a prince by inheritance, Bishop of Montenegro in the first half of the 19th century, admired poet and philosopher whose works are widely considered some of the most important in Montenegrin and Serbian literature. Prior to his death, Njegoš requested to be buried atop Mount Lovćen in a chapel dedicated to his predecessor, Petar I Petrović-Njegoš, designing the chapel himself and overseeing its construction in 1845.
One of Njegoš’s most admired writings, The Mountain Wreath, is a modern epic written in verse as a play. Considered a masterpiece, he goes on to describe the struggle for freedom, justice and dignity:
“Yes, a hero’s life is always haunted by a tragic ending.
It was destiny that your head had to pay the price for its wreath!”
Following the death of Njegoš in October 1851, he was laid to rest at the Cetinje Monastery, with his remains transferred to the mountain in 1855. He remained there until 1916 when during World War I, Montenegro was occupied by Austria-Hungary and the Hapsburg occupiers chose to erect a monument to Austrian Emperor on the same peak. Demanding that the remains of Njegoš be moved back to his hometown of Cetinje, Montenegrins had little choice and removed his remains under the supervision of Serbian Orthodox clergy as to avoid the accusation of desecration.
After emerging from the tunnel and its 461 steps, visitors find themselves at the peak of the mountain on a narrow paved path leading into the mausoleum. At the entrance, two immense granite giantesses (imaginary, gigantic women) guard the tomb of Montenegro's greatest hero. It’s said that on the righthand side stands his mother, and the left, his daughter. There is also a well nearby to collect rainwater.
By the end of the war, Njegoš’s chapel was heavily damaged. For years, local authorities debated with the Yugoslav government to find a solution on where and how to place the remains of Njegoš. Due to a lack of funds, plans for a mausoleum were tossed out and the original church was reconstructed. In 1925, during a large ceremony sponsored and attended by Yugoslavia’s King Alexander and Queen Maria, the chapel was rededicated and Njegoš’s remains were reburied.
Njegoš was said to be a smart man, high preist and ruler of the country during the Ottoman reign. He did much for the people, engaging in some of Montenegro’s first diplomatic relationships and opening schools for children. Regarding the mood during his dedication and evidence of how much the people of Montenegro valued Njegoš:
“The tone of the event, which was described extensively in the Yugoslav press, bordered on a piety more appropriate for the treatment of a saint than a writer.”
By the end of World War II, Yugoslavia came under communist rule and in 1952 their authorities replaced Njegoš’s chapel with a secular mausoleum, potentially in an attempt to de-Serbanize Njegoš and eliminate any trace of the chapel’s Byzantine appearance. Ultimately, in the late 1960’s the chapel was demolished and a mausoleum was built by 1971. The remains of Njegoš were moved back to Mount Lovćen a few years later and the mausoleum was officially inaugurated that year.
Inside the mausoleum, a massive black stone likeness of Njegoš with an eagle on his back, offering protection, stands tall. And gold donated by foreign governments was laid on the walls and ceilings to shine brightly.
The tomb of Njegoš sits plainly inside amongst the shadows, a heavy grey stone lid with carvings sits atop its base. Interestingly, Njegoš and his burial location have been mentioned in a popular Montenegrin folk songs which, though revised, has been the national anthem of Montenegro since 2004.
Outside, high atop the mountain, a gorgeous viewpoint called a guvno offers views of the surrounding landscape. Though normally called a threshing floor, this guvno is a round stone platform at the edge of the mountaintop used as a lookout point. It’s also a place for community to gather and a symbol of hope for peace and unity.
At the viewpoint and along the skinny pathway, the winds picked up; I was terribly worried one of us might get blown right off the mountain, especially as others passed by. After taking in the views, our group made its way across the path, through the tunnel and back down the steps into the cafe and gift shop at the bottom of the hill.
Worried I might spoil our lunch, I decided not to grab a snack which I’d later regret.
Stroll Through Montenegro’s Royal Capital of Cetinje
Cetinje is the former royal capital of Montenegro and the location of several national institutions such as the official residence of the president of Montenegro. The city was built in a valley protected by the surrounding landscape and its name is derived from the local river, the Cetina or Cetinja. From the years 1878 to 1918, Cetinje was the capital of independent Montenegro, along with its cultural center. In 1918 the city passed to Yugoslavia, with Cetinje succeeding as the capital by Titograd, now Podgorica.
Once arriving in Cetinje, our first stop was the small but mighty, Court Church. Sadly, it was not open on the day of our visit and we were only able to view the church from the exterior. A Serbian Orthodox church located in the Ćipur neighborhood of Cetinje, the church is dedicated to the Birth of the Most Holy Mother of God.
It was built by King Nikola I of Montenegro in 1890 on the site of the previous 15th century Monastery of Crnojevći erected by Ivan Crnojević, dedicated to the Mother of God. The original monastery built in 1482 burned down three times leaving remains in the location where the new church is built.
Remains of Ivan Crnojević, King Nikola, Queen Milena and Montenegrin princess Ksenija and Vjera are entombed within the church. It was declared a cultural heritage monument in 1961 and became a part of the History Museu of Montenegro in 2012.
Together with the archeological remains of the monastery complex of the Crnojević noble family, it’s a World Heritage Site aspirant, and a very charming one at that.
Just across the way is Cetinje Monastery, a white stone Christian Orthodox monastery built in 1704 on medieval ruins. Containing sacred relics, the monastery is a center of cultural and historical importance. Founded in 1484 by Prince Ivan Crnojević of Zeta, it was designated a cathedral monastery of the Eparchy of Zeta, equivalent to a diocese in the Latin Church. During the Morean War, it was left in ruins and rebuilt between 1701 and 1704.
There are several priceless relics in the monastery today. Possibly the most well known is the right hand of John the Baptist, with which he baptized Jesus. As the story goes, Luke the Evangelist went to the city of Sebastia, the location of John’s burial site, and took the right hand of John the Baptist, and brought it to his home city of Antioch where he performed miracles. However, today, both the Cetinje Monastery and the Catholic Cathedral of Siena in Italy claim to have this invaluable relic.
The remains of Saint Peter of Cetinje, particles of the True Cross, the real cross that Jesus of Nazareth was crucified on according to Christian tradition, the painting of the Philermos Mother of God and the royal crown of Serbian king Stephen Uroš III Dečanski, among others, also lie inside the Cetinje Monastery.
Entering the monastery felt very significant, almost heavy. Inside, monks quietly moved about as we explored each space and the relics within. I got a feeling that guests were more of an inconvenience than a happy occurrence. A small gift shop sold offerings and there were a few rooms to explore. Photos were not allowed.
From there, our group strolled through town, observing a calm fall day. Our guide pointed out noteworthy buildings as we passed and a few cafes offered outdoor seating. About an hour southeast was our next stop, Skadar Lake.
Float Over Skadar Lake
Lake Skadar, also called Lake Scutari, Lake Shkodër and Lake Shkodra, is a vast freshwater lake straddling the borders of Montenegro and Albania. It’s the largest lake in Southern Europe, surrounded by dramatic karst mountains, those associated with soluble rock types such as limestone, marble and gypsum. Its black mirrored waters, wetlands and rocky shores play host to diverse wildlife, traditional fishing villages, island monasteries and welcoming beaches.
Home to some of the most recognized panoramic views in a country known for its wild, natural beauty, Lake Skadar has been a protected National Park since 1983 and was added to the World’s List of Wetlands of International Importance in 1996. Many Montenegrins consider the lake and surrounding area as their country’s heart and soul. After all, this land is where the former royal family used to summer, where Turkish invaders hoped to conquer and also where some of the best organic food and wine are produced.
With a proud history and as part of the ancient Slav kingdom of Zeta, the region became a battleground for five centuries after the Turks invaded during the 13th century. As the Ottoman Empire collapsed, Turks were banned and the borders of an independent Montenegro were realized. The town of Skadar, once the capital of Zeta, joined with Albania while many Albanian villages on the southern shores merged with Montenegro, keeping much of their identity over the years. As the Turks conquered the southern shores, the northern wetlands offered fortifications for the Montenegrins. Continuing to fight, they were eventually forced to move their capital to Cetinje in 1482.
Millions of years ago, Lake Skadar met the sea, as proven by the seashell fossils still found in the area. Over time, plates moved, volcanoes erupted and sea levels abated, leaving the Skadar plain to emerge between the limestone mountains of the Dinaric Alps.
Our stop landed us in a tiny town along Skadar Lake called Rijeka Crnojevica. Arriving late in the afternoon, we sat down for lunch at a tiny cafe along the river. Our lunch options were either chicken or fish, of which, I opted for the local fish. We were also served a tasty soup and dessert.
Just as the sun began to tuck behind the mountains and a chill set about the air, we joined our captain on a small pontoon boat and headed out onto the lake for a ride. A beautiful stone bridge spread across the river; we made our way in that direction.
Hoping to warm us up, various bottles of liquor, wine and rakija, were offered as we began to move on the still black water. I chose the red wine and filled up my small plastic cup to enjoy.
Eventually, we crossed under the bridge and moved out onto the larger open lake.
Legend has it that a young bride, thrilled by her husband’s anticipated return, forgot to turn off a fountain tap overnight, creating the lake’s sweet waters. The true story, though, is just as amazing. In 1858, a violent thunderstorm sent Drina River into madness, creating such a build up at the mouth of Bojana River, that its path altered, flooding an existing pool and forming the largest lake in the Balkans.
Today, the lake is fed by Morača River and several underwater springs, reaching across 143 square miles during the summer and an incredible 205 square miles in the winter. It stretches an unbelievable 27 miles in length, six miles wide and averages 26 feet deep, though its deepest point is below sea level at a depth of nearly 200 feet.
Perhaps I would’ve been a bit more scared if I knew it’s true depth at the time. Our trip around the lake lasted about an hour and wove in and out of several different areas, all of which offered a new layer to the landscape. The fall colors of the trees were gorgeous in the setting sunlight and I enjoyed every minute of the ride, other than freezing my tail off. No one on the boat was brave enough for a dip in the cool waters.
The lakes waters are home to over 30 species of freshwater fish including trout, saran and the local claim to fame, carp, all of which can be caught, cooked and eaten right out of the water or found at local restaurants as Catch of the Day. Additionally, more than 260 species of birds call the lake home, including the rare Dalmatian Pelican and Pygmy Cormorant, along with storks, herons, egrets and ibises that perch on reeds while falcons and eagles scour the rocky shores for a snack. The surrounding mountains are also home to tortoises, lizards, amphibians and snakes, not to mention the occasional wild boar or wolf during winter.
With the ideal climate between the mountains and the sea, conditions are ideal for all kinds of organically produced fare. Herbs like mint, wild sage and rosemary sprinkle the ground, while fruits, nuts and veggies like plums, figs, peppers, cherries, mandarines and pomegranates are grown in the valleys. Specialties like locally produced goat cheese, succulent honey, homemade rakija and various flavors of home-cured pršut (smoked ham) are also the norm.
And as the lake began to grow dark, our captain took us back to shore. Exhausted from a long day, we loaded into the van and drove the hour and a half back to Kotor.
