Killarney, Ireland
Chasing Sheep in the Gap of Dunloe
Ireland is an island in the North Atlantic Ocean, in northwestern Europe separated from Great Britain to the east by the North Channel, Irish Sea and St. George’s Channel. Geopolitically, the country is divided between the Republic of Ireland (officially called Ireland), covering five-sixths of the island, and Northern Ireland, which is part of the United Kingdom. Dublin, the capital of Ireland, is birthplace to writers such as Oscar Wilde and home of the famous Guinness beer. Nicknamed the "Emerald Isle” for its lush landscape, Ireland is dotted with castles and gorgeous scenery no matter where you find yourself.
Killarney, known as the tidiest town in Ireland, is also home to some of the most beautifully undisturbed landscape in in Ireland. It’s also a popular tourist destination with its natural heritage, history and location on the Ring of Kerry, a 111 mile circular tourist route in southwestern Ireland. Along the route, stops like Muckross House, Ross Castle and the Gap of Dunloe do not disappoint.
With ten days to spend in Ireland, my first stop was Dublin: A City Rich in History & Friendly as Can Be, with Galway and Killarney following. From Galway, I visited the Aran Islands and Cliffs of Moher Thru Galway, while Killarney offered a hike through the Gap of Dunloe. Just before heading home, I’d join a day tour to explore UK's Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge & Giant's Causeway. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to make it to Cork and didn’t find too much going on down in Limerick.
Arrive in the Charming Town of Killarney
Arriving in Killarney felt very special, almost intimate. The town is adorable, full of skinny brick streets lined with huge trees and Catholic churches. It's also near Killarney National Park, the first national park in Ireland, which covers over 25,000 acres of woodlands, mountains and lakes. Just on the edge of town, lies The Black Sheep Hostel where I’d be staying for the next few days. After check-in, Khao, a local spot serving Thai street food, offered a bite to eat. The pho bo, a beef stir fry with rice noodles and spicy broth, was delicious.
As the sun set, I walked toward St. Mary's Cathedral looking for the park's entrance (it's a bit hidden and across a small bridge). In the morning I'd be heading out quite early on a tour and wanted to be prepared. Before returning to the hostel, I picked up some ice cream in town.
Cruise the Gorgeous Lakes of Killarney
With only one full day in Killarney it’s best to see as much as possible. My hostel suggested taking a boat tour into the Gap of Dunloe but I had no idea what I was getting myself into. The tour was €15, €5 at my hostel and €10 directly to the boat driver. And when I say tour, I mean that loosely. There was no one guide, only a boat driver for the first portion of the day.
After breakfast, I made my way to Killarney National Park on foot. My instructions were to catch a boat from Ross Castle. After entering the park, signs led directly to the castle. The walk was about a mile and a half and takes thirty minutes or so depending on your pace and how often you stop. The park was gorgeous, as green as could be, with cows mooing and deer bouncing around.
As I approached Ross Castle I started to panic. It was full of tourists and I couldn't find the meeting point. Down at the water behind the castle I finally found a man setting off in a tiny black boat. This was it, I found the location and hopped into the boat with six others: three Irish women, two Australians and a German.
Almost immediately I was overtaken by the views. The castle set against a bright blue sky and green grass was gorgeous, not to mention the lake.
Our guide was adorable. He cracked jokes every chance he got and fed us information about the area. He was incredibly knowledgeable. We began the trip in the largest of the lakes, Louge Leane, and rode by the tiny island of Innisfallen, then across the lake entering Muckross Lake. The weather was super cloudy and chilly so I'd recommend bringing a sweater to keep warm.
We passed Dinis Cottage and landed in the Meeting of the Waters, where all three lakes meet. At the Old Weir Bridge we hopped out of the boat and walked along the shore so our boat could pass by in the low waters. The guide explained that water levels vary greatly depending on the rain and sometimes passages dry up or even flood the bridges.
As we continued down the river, we saw Eagle's Nest, a mountain where the last eagles lived before they were wiped out. Local farmers killed them in order to protect their lambs. Over the past few years, Ireland has begun reintroducing the white tail eagle with success. And locals have been promised compensation if they lose a lamb, so everyone wins.
Our guide continued on to Upper Lake, the most beautiful of the three. It's surrounded by mountains on all sides. There, we could see the backside of the tallest mountain in all of Ireland.
After an hour and a half on the water, we reached Lord Brandon's Cottage. There, I joined three of the ladies for an egg salad lunch and cup of tea. We all had Bailey's and coffee, hoping to warm up.
Chase Sheep at the Pass of Dunloe
Let's first note that my hostel made this trek sound like a simple boat tour where you hop off and take a little walk to catch the bus back into town but that was hardly the case. Instead, it was a seven mile hike between two mountains called the Pass of Dunloe (without so much as a sign in the right direction). The hike does follow a paved road so it's fairly easy to navigate but only one afternoon bus delivers you back into town, so time is of the essence.
Tips: Pack a bottle of water, snacks and a raincoat in case the weather turns, as it usually does in Ireland. Also, wear boots or tennis shoes at a minimum.
Most importantly, we were told to take the path behind the cottage toward the left and walk until we see a church and head right at the next intersection.
The road zigs and zags up through the Pass of Dunloe where the views were incredible, rolling hills accompanied by skies filled with rolling clouds. Sheep grazed along the road but were extremely camera shy, so good luck getting any close-ups.
During the first half of the seven mile hike, we worked up quite a sweat. It's uphill until you reach the passage where both mountains meet and I kept up with the ladies but had to run at times. They seemed to be in it for the exercise rather than the experience.
After passing through the gap we crossed a stone bridge and continued on seeing few small lakes. Overall, the landscape was incredible. Everything in sight was so green and full of life.
As for the sheep, the colors help owners keep track of them as they wander the countryside. And owners put a different color on the rear of sheep to mark when they mate.
After hours of hiking, we reached a little village with a coffee shop and Kate Kearney's Cottage. All of us had a drink, cider for me and hot toddies for the others, and rested our feet just in time to catch the afternoon bus back into town. Make sure not to miss the 4 o'clock bus or it's another six miles back. And try Thieves Cider if you get a chance, it's delicious.
Enjoy All Things Shepard's Pie, Wool & Whiskey
Back in town, I went for a bite at Cronin's, trying the traditional Shepard's pie with chips but I can't say it was my favorite. Afterward, thought I'd give wool another try since I didn't find much in Dublin: A City Rich in History & Friendly as Can Be. Aran Sweater Market was in town and offered everything imaginable. Unable to resist, I picked up an authentic sheep's skin rug for my bedroom, a scarf for my dad's birthday and a few bars of sheep’s milk soap. The shop was even kind enough to ship everything home, free of charge (minimum purchase required).
Thinking back on my whiskey tasting in Galway (Aran Islands & Cliffs of Moher thru Galway), I picked up a sampler box of expensive whiskey's along with a pint of Paddy's (the Irish man's classic) for a friend at home. Fun fact, Irish whiskey is distilled three times, American whiskey only once.
That evening I made sure to book my train ticket for the following day; I'd be heading back to Dublin and heard tickets sell out quickly. My train would depart around 2 p.m. for €40.99. Additionally, I booked a day tour to Northern Ireland for €46.85 through Giant's Causeway Tours.
UK's Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge & Giant's Causeway
Northern Ireland
The Black Sheep Hostel
Black Sheep Hostel is an adorable place to stay. Beds and linens are very comfortable with curtains for privacy and built in storage underneath (bring a lock). Towels are provided for $2 USD. Individual style bathrooms are nice but showers have push buttons with luke warm water. The kitchen, lounge and dining areas are all on the main floor and offer great spots to relax.
Black Sheep is located between town and the cathedral, a short walk from downtown. Staff is helpful but not overly so. I recommend going on the boat tour and hike through the Pass of Dunloe but be prepared for a long hike. Either way, Killarney is a must see.
