Japan Rules
All You Need to Know Before Visiting Japan
While living and teaching in South Korea, I was lucky enough to visit nearly every country in southeast Asia but held off on Japan because it felt like biting off more than I could chew. So after a decade of anticipation it was finally time and my birthday offered the perfect excuse.
My first destination was Tokyo, the Largest Metropolitan in the World, Japan’s busy capital that uniquely combines old and new, ultramodern skyscrapers with traditional historic temples. From Tokyo, there would be a day trip into the forested mountains of Nikkō for some much needed Mountain Worship and then it was on to the gorgeous Charming Temples, Gardens & Geisha of Kyoto, about three hours west of Tokyo by bullet train. From Kyoto, I’d Explore Thousands of Torii Gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine, Wander the Emerald Green Bamboo Forests of Arashiyama and Admire the Wild & Curious Deer of Nara Park.
As predicted though, Japan was a tough country to explore on my own. Even with a connection on my phone, many things felt just out of reach. Japan is a long country and everything is spread out, it’s not very accommodating to English speakers and packed full of tourists everywhere you go. In the end, I left feeling as if I didn’t quite get enough to eat or see, wishing I had planned things a bit differently despite my research beforehand.
Tricky Transportation
Not only is Japan large (about the size of California, taking nearly 12 hours to travel end to end by bullet train at 200 mph) but its transportation system is complex. Even after 10 days of maneuvering my way through its stations, I’m not entirely sure I mastered the system.
From my understanding, Japan’s public transportation consists of buses, regular subway lines and a network of high-speed railway lines called Shinkansen, operated by Japan Railways. For local travel, purchase an IC Card such as PASMO for ¥500 at one of the station vending machines and add funds as needed. Each time you enter the station, tap your card. Tap again when you exit and the correct amount will be removed.
The JR system is much more confusing and prices are steep. You may purchase individual tickets or a Japan Rail Pass offered in seven, 14 or 21 day increments. Weeks before my trip I bought a seven day pass online for $300 USD. A voucher was sent by mail and needed to be activated once I arrived in Japan. Once there, I learned only large stations and airports can activate your pass but when you do, you must choose which day to begin use so it can get tricky if your plans are loose and you don’t know when you’'ll need it.
After it’s activated, get your pass stamped at one of the gates and make sure to pass through the manned operator every time you use your pass. They must manually check the dates. Also note, the JR pass counts days by calendar day, rather than 24 hour periods. That means even if you use your pass for the first time late in the evening it counts as a full day.
The JR Pass is also restricted on the Nozomi and Mizuho lines and some Express trains, even though their site says otherwise. It seemed like every time I jumped on a train the conductor would pass by checking tickets and tell me I was on the wrong train and needed to buy additional tickets or get off at the next stop.
Additionally, my week in Kyoto was meant to be a base for day trips but most were too far to pull off in a single day contrary to recommendations. It didn’t seem realistic to travel three or four hours one-way to rush back and catch a return train home before dark.
If I had moved around more often it may have made the JR Pass worth it but in the end, it was a bit of a waste. If there’s ever a next time, I’ll make sure to stop off in more remote areas to stay the night instead of counting on day trips from bigger cities.
Picturesque but Swarming With Tourists
Japan was packed. Tokyo, specifically, was full of locals and even more tourists so after two days, I had seen enough. Kyoto was a welcome surprise as it felt more laid back and overflowing with history and culture rather than skyscrapers. Still, the tourist sites were overwhelming. The only solace I found was around sunset when crowds began to clear. It was only then I might be lucky enough to snap a photo without dozens of strangers or make my way through the streets without bumping into others. After my return, I learned I had visited during a Chinese holiday so it might be wise to coordinate in the future.
Despite the tourists, there were so many wonderful places to explore. A few of my favorite sites were the shrine, Fushimi Inari-taisha, and it’s 5,000 vermillion torii gates, the bamboo forests of Arashiyama and a day trip to Nara that was pure magic, all out of Kyoto. Nikkō, a small mountain town north of Tokyo was also incredible and worth the trip.
Wild & Unpredictable Weather
Traveling around the world during my October birthday never fails to surprise me weather-wise but Japan was truly something else. Most days were gorgeous and sunny, nearly 90°F, almost too hot to believe. Then every few days a storm would roll in covering every surface with mist or rain. My last few days in Japan were spent avoiding Typhoon Hagibis. Thank goodness not too many businesses near me were affected much by the weather and transportation continued to run once the storm had passed.
Deliciously Irresistible Food
The food in Japan was nothing short of incredible and I was lucky enough to stumble onto so many special treats but I will say, everything wasn’t always as expected. Often times, I went out in search of something specific and ended up frustrated because I couldn’t find what I had in mind.
Shabu shabu was one of those frustrations. While living in Korea this steamy hot pot was one of my favorite meals and I couldn’t believe I was in Japan, its origin. But I couldn’t get anyone to serve me a single portion. When I finally thought I had, they brought me a bowl of soup with noddles and meat. Sadly, not quite what I was hoping for. A kaiseki meal or traditional multi-course Japanese meal was another experience I was dying to try but restaurants were booked out for days and couldn’t squeeze me in.
On the other hand, ramen was insane (yep, all the gluten for me). First off, some of the best spots are tiny little kitchens about 10 feet wide. Squeeze yourself into the door where you make your selection at a vending machine, move past those slurping up their tasty bowls of noodles, give your ticket to the chef and wait for your bowl of deliciousness to arrive. Top your noodles with sesame seeds, vinegar or chili sauce to enhance the flavors and enjoy. This was one dish I went back for more, three times.
Literally translated to “kettle rice” kamameshi is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama. Originally, groups would share the dish and eat from the same pot but this time, it was all mine. Don’t expect this dish to be quick; after ordering you’ll wait about 20 minutes for your pot to arrive but it’s worth it. Try adding shrimp for a special treat.
And of course, sushi was everywhere and it was delicious but not as delicious as I had imagined. If you’re really into seafood pick up some at the Nishiki Market in Kyoto or fish market in Tokyo. They’ve got fresh salmon, octopus, tuna, crab, uni and much more on display. Be warned, though, you’ll go broke trying everything but do you even have a choice?
Breakfast was a bit challenging but I discovered a few gems. If you’re in Tokyo, stop in a tiny restaurant called Shinpachi Shokudo. It was recommended to me for it’s fishy style breakfast but I discovered they also serve traditional miso soup and rice with fried eggs and bacon (the fish breakfast was also delicious).
A Happy Pancake in Kyoto is a must try if you have the time but show up early because lines start to form before the doors open. It takes 20 minutes to prepare a single order of light and fluffy pancakes that actually taste like clouds (the matcha flavor is out of this world). Or if you’re on the move, there are bakeries and coffee shops every few blocks. Just don’t ask for a toasted bagel with cream cheese. Instead, they cook the “cheese” right into the bagel and expect you to eat it cold.
Treats, snacks and sweets! Every direction I looked there was ice cream, donuts, candy or boba tea. Matcha green tea was my favorite and it was in everything. Matcha gelato, matcha honey and milk nuts, matcha lattes, matcha marshmallows, matcha pancakes and much more. Another favorite was taiyaki, a crispy fish-shaped cake typically filled with sweet azuki beans.
Also, don’t forget about sake. I found it tough to decide which ones to try because there are so many varieties but try enough and you’ll discover your favorite.
Limitless Shopping
Whether you’re into designer brands or traditional Japanese souvenirs Japan surely does not disappoint. In Tokyo, one of my favorite days began at the famous Shibuya Crossing where countless stores line the streets. From there, a 20 minute walk toward Harajuku and down Takeshita Street will inspire you even if you’re not into the Lolita style.
In Kyoto, Teramachi Street should not be missed. This indoor-outdoor shopping center is packed with both traditional and modern shops. Traditional highlights include vintage kimonos, chopsticks, ceramics, matcha green tea and sensu or o-gi (folding fans). Some of the incredible non-traditional items were secondhand clothing, army surplus, beauty products, leather goods, stationary, hats, shoes and sportswear. My favorite store was Sous Sous where I picked up a few pairs of modern style men’s kimono pants, a trench coat and black leather bag.
Prices are fairly high but reasonable and all major stores offer tax-free purchases if you can provide a passport during check out so bring that along when you shop. Few select stores only accept cash especially in the market so keep some yen handy.
And there you have it; all I wish I knew before traveling to Japan. It still blows my mind that I’m brave enough to travel across the world on my own but I love that each and every time I’m surprised and challenged in different ways. If I’m lucky, I’ll never stop growing and learning about myself and this wild world we live in.
