Cienfuegos, Cuba
Chasing Waterfalls in Cienfuegos
Known to very little, Cuba, officially the Republic of Cuba, is an island country comprised of the island of Cuba, Isla de la Juventud, archipelagos and 4,195 islands and cays surrounding the main island. It’s a mysterious land to many but Cuba is one rich in friendly faces, diverse landscapes, vibrant art and music and tasty cuisine. But with a rocky past, the country still feels just out of reach, with many of its people suffering to this day.
Located on Bahía de Cienfuegos, a bay on Cuba’s southern coast 90 minutes from Trinidad, Cienfuegos is known for its colonial-era buildings. It’s one of the chief seaports for sugarcane, coffee and tobacco in Cuba and a peaceful town oozing charm.
With 10 days to spend in Cuba and so much to see, our flight landed in Old Havana. Next up, it was on to the beautiful Cobblestone Streets of Trinidad, gorgeous waterfalls of Cienfuegos and finally the incredible Mogote Hills of Viñales Valley.
After a few soggy days in Trinidad, Cienfuegos was up next. A “collectivo” arrived at our hostel in Trinidad and drove us to Cienfuegos for 15 CUC each ($15 USD). Upon arrival, we checked in to our new homestay, Hostal las Gemelas.
Struggle at the Botanical Gardens
With no time to waste first up was the Botanical Garden of Cienfuegos located 20 minutes outside of the city. A small entrance fee of 2.50 CUC was collected and we made our way down a long windy road until reaching the main entrance. Inside, there was a tiny palm and cactus house but not too much else.
Not seeing any clear direction, we were told to enter a grassy path and “keep right”. With that, we disappeared into the woods, almost immediately losing our way. The weather was incredibly hot and muggy and mosquitoes were eating us alive. To make matters worse, there weren’t any signs or paths, only cattle.
Unfortunately, it was really frustrating and not a spot I’d recommend. Maybe due to the rainy season or high expectations but the gardens seemed better to “tour” by car as they felt more like someone’s wild backyard rather than a well-kept garden.
Relax at Rancho Luna Beach
After such a rough morning at the botanical gardens, the beach sounded ideal. Rancho Luna Beach was a short drive away, just 20 minutes and exactly what we needed. Before settling into the sand, we had a delicious lunch of shrimp, fish, rice and beans with piña coladas.
The beach was gorgeous and fairly empty. The warm ocean water was refreshing and we enjoyed the weather for a few relaxing hours. Eventually, it began to cool as the sun set.
The beach was super peaceful and it’s always really nice to have one all to yourself. Clouds rolled in and created a gorgeous view.
Back at the homestay, our hosts prepared a delicious dinner of vegetable soup, pork, chicken, rice, pumpkin and veggies (avocado & mushroom) with flan and chocolate ice cream for dessert. It was such a nice treat and we welcomed a home-cooked meal after so many nights eating out.
Chase Waterfalls at El Nicho
The next morning a delicious breakfast of tiny arepas (elephant ears) with honey, scrambled eggs, ham, cheese, bread, fruit (banana, papaya & watermelon), mango juice and coffee was prepared.
With full bellies, it was time to hike El Nicho. A taxi picked us up at our hostel and began the 90 minute drive. The waterfalls and natural pools of El Nicho sit inside the Gran Parque Natural Topes de Collantes, a forest-covered park extending across the Sierra Escambray mountain range in central Cuba.
Our driver was very kind, stopping along the way to enjoy the view and take a few photos. During the drive we passed farms growing all kinds of fruit, coffee and sugar cane. We even stopped to grab a few citrus fruits.
Arriving at El Nicho, our driver explained it would take about two hours to hike up and back down the mountain. Also, it’s a good idea to bring a swimsuit although swim at your own risk due to icy cold water.
Upon entering the park, the guides gave us a really hard time about not having our passports. It wasn’t clear if they were telling the truth about needing them to enter or if they were looking for a “tip.” After convincing them we weren’t a risk (in Spanish) they let us enter by paying the 10 CUC entrance fee ($10 USD).
The hike up was fairly easy and there were multiple spots to pause and take in the views. Almost immediately there was a small pool of water where some were swimming but we chose to keep it moving.
A short while later we reached a huge waterfall on the left-hand side and a few smaller falls hidden behind trees on the right. It felt like every few minutes we’d bump into another waterfall. It was really nice to find them so easily and not struggle in the process.
The mountain had a clear path to follow including small bridges and stairs made of dirt and stones. Other tourists were enjoying the hike but it was not overcrowded. The weather held out and was gorgeous all day. It couldn't have been a more beautiful experience.
After an hour or so we reached the top of the mountain. The hike turned out to be a loop so we could either return back down the same way or continue on the loop. At the highest point, there was an incredible view of the entire valley below.
Just below the highest point there was a large waterfall and shallow pool. This was really the only spot that was super busy so we passed back around on our way down hoping it had cleared a bit. Hikers were still resting and cooling off in the water but many had turned back down the mountain.
On the way down, we noticed even more flowers and plants in bloom. The white ginger, the national flower of Cuba, smelled beautiful and resembled a flying butterfly.
As the hike came to an end, we were starving. Our taxi driver took us down the road to La Casa del Campesino for lunch. It was packed but after a short wait we sat down and ordered fruit, mixed rice, salad, fried chicken with coconut and mint drinks. Everything was incredible, especially the fried chicken. As we were leaving, our driver suggested we pick up a bag of local coffee beans from the restaurant for only $3 USD.
Wander Central Square
After chowing down we made our way back into the city where an afternoon rain held us up but eventually it was time to explore central square, Parque José Martí, and Bahía de Cienfuegos. The square was just a few minutes walk from our home stay and on the way we began to get a feel for the city. It felt small and gritty but welcoming.
The paved plaza is surrounded by 19th century buildings and houses a José Martí memorial. José Martí is considered a national hero and a Cuban poet, essayist, journalist, translator, professor and publisher. Strangely, the square felt deserted. We had imagined it to be bustling with vendors, locals and restaurants but not much was going on.
In 2005, UNESCO inscribed the Urban Historic Centre of Cienfuegos on the World Heritage List, praising Cienfuegos as the best surviving example of early 19th century Spanish Enlightenment urban planning.
It’s downtown area has six buildings from 1819-50, 327 from 1851-1900 and 1188 buildings from the 20th century. There’s no other place in the Caribbean that has such a remarkable number of Neoclassical buildings.
Appreciate Bay of Cienfuegos
Opening up into the Caribbean Sea, the Bay of Cienfuegos was right down the street from central square. We found a fisherman working and a group of kids jumping into the water just as it began to rain. The skies became dark and moody but the bay was gorgeous. We stayed as long as we could before it began to pour down from the skies. An instant flood rushed through the streets as we returned to our home stay.
In the morning was our final destination, Viñales Valley, a small town in western Cuba known for its green botanical gardens and rocky limestone hills.
Mogote Hills of Viñales Valley
Viñales, Cuba
Hostal Las Gemelas
Hostal las Gemelas was our favorite stay in Cuba. The family was so kind and hospitable. They helped us find activities, taxi cabs and even prepared delicious home-cooked meals. The accommodations were clean, private and comfortable. The location is just a few blocks away from the city center but still count on taxi’s to the beach and El Nicho (a must see).
