Coconut Island: Saint Martin’s French Paradise

With a few weeks of travel set aside and a birthday around the corner, it was that time of year again. Each year, instead of celebrating at home with mounting pressure and expectation, I book a trip overseas and travel someplace exotic for my birthday. This year was no different. My first destination was the island of Sint Maarten, a Dutch inspired paradise with idyllic beaches, parrot sanctuaries and wild zip lines. On the opposite side of the island, the northern French side, lies Saint Martin, coined “Coconut Island.” From there, I’d hop on a quick flight to the Caribbean island of Dominica, a wildly untouched jungle island with stunning waterfalls, steamy hot springs and gorgeous gorges, with a day trip north to Pirates of the Caribbean’s Indian River. My final paradise was the island of Antigua and Barbuda, with its white sand beaches, tortoise sanctuaries and stingray swims.

The Collectivity of Saint Martin, or Saint Martin as it’s commonly referred, began its history like many other island nations in the Caribbean. Its earliest inhabitants were Amerindians, followed by Europeans who brought slavery. Those early inhabitants called the island “Soualiga” or “Land of Salt,” due to Saint Martin’s salt pans but as Columbus reached the West Indies in 1493 and without ever actually stepping foot on the island, he renamed it to Isla de San Martin, after a Christian saint in France. Soon, both the French and Dutch coveted the island, using it as a halfway point between North and South America. And eventually, the Spanish got involved, too - interested in the salt trade. But over time the island was deserted, leaving the Dutch (south) and French (north) to split it in half in 1648 with the Treaty of Concordia. Today, visitors arrive in Saint Martin to experience a sense of “France in the Tropics,” including its luxury shopping, countless (often nude) white sand beaches and fusion French and Indian Caribbean cuisine. Just don’t forget to travel south and experience the island’s Dutch side.

Favorite places to visit on the island of Sint Maarten & Saint Martin

Contents

• Brunch Like the French at Marigot’s So Benedict

• Stroll Through Marigot Marketplace

• Climb Fort St. Louis Like You Mean It

• Get Happy at Happy Bay Beach via Friar’s Bay Beach

Brunch Like the French at Marigot's So Benedict

Though mostly focusing on Sint Maarten, the southern side of the island, I knew I had to make my way north to experience its French half, too. So, after a few days of settling in, I was off to figure out the bus system, using it to reach Saint Martin.

Tip: Taxis are incredibly expensive on the island, so get used to riding the bus; they’re cheap, easy and convenient (for the most part but they don’t go everywhere and may stop early). Look for signs along the road and wait for a marked passenger van to pass (there’s usually a little sign in the front window saying which direction it’s going). Wave it down, hop on and then, off, as needed. Bring cash to pay when you exit. Each ride costs about $2 USD.

From my Airbnb in Cupecoy (southwest side of the island), I caught a bus east toward Philipsburg, the capital of Sint Maarten. At Cole Bay, I hopped off and swapped busses to move north toward Marigot, the capital city of Saint Martin. As it turned out, the bus wasn’t too tough but it did take a little patience and trial and error. Do expect to sweat your ass off.

Once off the bus, I walked over to So Benedict, a little cafe with breakfast and lunch in the heart of Marigot. Set alongside rows of boutiques, perfume and cigar shops, creperies, swimwear stores and bakeries, So Benedict serves up, you guessed it, eggs Benedict. Looking super cute and very French, I took a seat outside to people watch (but did have to endure some cigarette smoke). And though not a major Benedict fan, I still thought it necessary to try their specialty, so I chose the tuna tartar with avocado, poached eggs and hollandaise sauce.

My meal arrived slathered in sauce, paired with a fresh side salad and baked potato with chive sour cream - something I’d never seen for breakfast. It was ooey gooey, a bit more than I prefer, but the taste was really nice, especially the tuna.

After finishing as much as I could, I set off on foot, hoping to find an outdoor market I’d read about.

Stroll Through Marigot Marketplace

On my way, I began to get a good feel for the city of Marigot. The main town and capital, Marigot owes its name to the many backwaters, or marigots, that used to be on the island. Literally translating to “swamp” in French, the word references the towns origins as a fishing village on a swamp. Today, its gingerbread houses and sidewalk bistros sit quietly waiting, as if standing still in time.

Marigot is located on the west coast of the island and extends along the Bay of Marigot to the hills of the inner parts of the island to the east. On the southwest, the city is bounded by the Simpson Bay.

Thanks to growth driven by sugarcane production in the 18th century, Marigot became the capital of the French part of the island during the reign of King Louis XVI of France, who’s also responsible for building Fort St. Louis near the bay.

Market days at Marigot Marketplace are held in town every Wednesday and Saturday morning but I was still eager to see what I might find. Rounding the corner, there is was - the outdoor market and food stalls.

Full of vibrant colors and outdoor seating lined with green plants, the stalls were mostly empty on my visit but I could only imagine what they might be like on a Friday or Saturday evening when the entire town comes together to enjoy the warm salty air and Caribbean music.

Still, some were enjoying lunch in the heat, scarfing down plates of fried fish, ribs, curry, chicken stew and steak.

I particularly liked the “Market Woman” statue, a tribute to the market women of the island, created by local artist, Martin Lynn. The statue was dedicated to all Saint Martin women and is a recognized symbol of the island. The piece was originally created in the 1970’s by Marty Lynn, with a limited edition replica later produced by his son, Robbie Lynn.

It was also very clear that the people of Marigot have an artistic eye and a need for expression. The murals throughout town were absolutely stunning and not to be missed. Coined the “Wall of Art” - a collection of outdoor murals and street art transform the city’s walls into an outdoor gallery. The art is created by both local and international artists and showcases the island’s rich history and culture. It gives a peak into the island’s identity by celebrating diversity in a variety of styles and colors, depicting stories of everyday life in a beautifully vibrant way.

Climb Fort St. Louis Like You Mean It

Just north of the market, high up on a hill sits Fort St. Louis. It’s a bit of a hike to the top but definitely worth the scenic views. And though the hike is incredibly hot and sticky, the top offers some relief with cool ocean breezes.

Tip: Bring lots of water along for the short hike up to Fort St. Louis and watch out for massive iguanas (and tiny ones, too).

On the way up, I passed a beautiful canary yellow church called Roman Catholic Church Marigot. Loop around to the left and continue up the hill. It’s also possible to drive up and park in the lot near the fort.

At the parking lot, you’ll see a large canary yellow cross beside a small “Fort Louis” sign and entrance. Climb the final set of stairs to reach the top.

Built in the 18th century during the reign of King Louis XVI, Fort St. Louis overlooks Marigot Bay high above the capital city and is known for its historical significance as a French military fort with panoramic views of the surrounding area. It was designed to protect the settlement of Marigot and its harbor below from British and Dutch pirates who would often raid warehouses in search of valuable goods like coffee, salt, rum and cane sugar.

By the year 1765, groups of canons were set up in three locations to defend the harbor from raids: Pointe Bluff, Round Hill and Marigot Hill.

In 1789, Saint Martin and Saint Barthelemy’s governor, Jean-Sébastien de Durat, oversaw the construction of the fort, prison and bridge; the fort was built on Marigot Hill. Durat named the fort, Fort Louis, likely after King Louis XVI, the French king he served.

Fort Louis was originally a wooden fort and by the beginning of the 19th century, it extended down the slopes of Marigot Hill, including two additional batteries. During this time, the fort had barracks to hold 54 troops, a guard room, kitchen and cistern.

It’s also possible that the fort was occupied by English troops while they occupied the island over the years but no real evidence has been found.

In 1851, the fort was abandoned and decommissioned by the military. During 1993 and 1994, restoration and enhancement work was undertaken by the Hope Estate Archaeological Association of Saint Martin.

Though long since abandoned, the fort is a stark reminder of the islands history - a story of shared beginnings, colonial rivalries and eventual separation, resulting in two distinct yet interconnected territories.

It’s also no wonder the fort was built at such great heights. Marigot Hill provides the perfect vantage point for defense and gorgeous 360-degree views far into the sea and even to Anguilla on a clear day.

Once I reached the top of the fort, the breeze was calm and relaxing. Finally, I was able to cool off. Descriptive panels helped explain the forts history and role it played in the island's past. Several cannons were placed strategically around the top of the hill, pointing toward the sea. And besides the breathtaking views of the bay, tons of iguanas - tiny ones, medium-sized ones and even large ones - were wandering the grounds.

Get Happy at Happy Bay Beach via Friar's Bay Beach

Excited to check out the islands beaches, I grabbed another bus and moved further north toward Happy Bay Beach. From the bus stop, I walked for what felt like forever down an endless dirt road. It was a long arduous walk with the direct sun beating down on me the entire way, no respite whatsoever.

To my surprise, I reached Friar’s Beach. Located between Marigot and Grand Case, Friar’s Bay Beach sits along the Caribbean side of the island and is known as one of the most kid friendly beaches, with tranquil waters and sunny skies. Two beach bars offer drinks and lunch for guests.

By the time I reached the beach, I realized it was not the one I had my heart set on. Exhausted, thirsty and already sun kissed, I asked the bartender how I might find Happy Beach (and also for some water - really the main reason I stopped). To which, he pointed at a secret path off in the distance. All I had to do was follow this path through the brush to reach the Happy Beach.

Dipping my toes in the cool water, I moved on quickly; I was running out of energy and was eager to reach my destination. It was easy enough to find the trail, and so, I began.

Winding over the hill and along the coast, I realized pretty quickly that the trail was not for the faint of heart. It was thick, overgrown and scratchy, full of rocks and roots and itchy bugs (and more iguanas, peering out into the sea, no less).

Nearly in a panic, I continued on and on and on, looking back only to see Friar’s Bay and its beach shrinking in size.

Worried I might not make it at all and considering turning back, the hike continued, ultimately reaching a grassy plain with blades so tall, I couldn’t see much else.

Then, just over the hill, Happy Beach emerged from underneath the trees. She was perfect. It had taken me a good 20-25 minutes of intense hiking alongside the cliff, through an overgrown jungle-like path. The hike was rough and not one I’d recommend, especially after realizing that I didn’t have to walk all the way around to Friar’s Bay Beach and through the jungle. There had been a short cut all along.

As authentic and remote as you can get, Happy Bay Beach is a small, isolated, clothing-optional beach on the leeward side of the island. And though many might suggest to hike over the hill from Friar’s Bay Beach, I’d point out that it’s much simpler to drive up and park at its entrance, if you’ve got your own vehicle.

This picture-perfect beach, filled with white sand, turquoise-blue waters and coconut trees, was undeniably beautiful. Sometimes battered by the swell, it was drenched in full sun with fairly choppy waters. The warm waters felt like paradise, especially after my hiking fiasco but they were murky and a bit rough, pulling me out to sea and then pushing me back in, tumbling on to the rocks below. A little overwhelming, I stopped swimming after I’d cooled off.

With no beach shacks or bars, I can’t imagine anyone could stay out here too long. The beach was pretty empty, only five or so people there and a few nude patrons. I made friends with two guys who eventually gave me a ride back down south to my favorite beach in Sint Maarten, Mullet Bay Beach, after we’d had enough of the heat.

---

Map of Saint Martin