Chiloé Island: Land of Myth & Sea

Taking advantage of Chile and its uniquely diverse geography took much more effort and preparation than my usual holidays, including eight flights, countless busses and taxi’s and even a ferry. Up first was Chile’s capital city of Santiago, where we relished in Chilean wine, world class cuisine and its undeniable art scene. San Pedro de Atacama, the driest place on Earth, was next on the itinerary. While in Atacama, we booked a handful of incredible tours including Laguna Chaxa, Piedras Rojas and Altiplanic Lagoons for its pink flamingos, red rocks and blue lagoons, the Andes Mountains to experience El Tatio Geysers, northern Atacama to moonwalk at Valle de la Luna and Atacama Desert to stargaze into the night sky. Moving south, we then flew to the tip of Chile's southernmost Patagonia region and gateway to Antarctica, Punta Arenas, and traveled by bus to Torres del Paine, Chile’s Patagonia, with an exciting opportunity to witness bone chilling waterfalls, icebergs and glaciers. Rounding out our journey, we landed in Castro on Chiloé Island, land of myth and sea.

Considered one of the world’s most unusual shapes, Chile is situated in southern South America, bordering the South Pacific Ocean and a small portion of the South Atlantic Ocean. From north to south, the country extends an incredible 2,653 miles and only averages a width of 110 miles. Culturally, Chile reflects the population and geographic isolation of the country in relation to the rest of South America. Since colonial times, Chilean culture has been a mix of Spanish colonial elements with indigenous (mostly Mapuche) influences. The country is also known as the “country of poets,” rich in culture, art and literature, home to Nobel Prize poets Gabriela Mistral and Pablo Neruda.

A land of mystery and superstition, Chiloé, also known as Greater Island of Chiloé, is the largest island of the Chiloé Archipelago and sits off the west coast of Chile in the Pacific Ocean. The island is one of surprising cultural and natural wealth with its palafitos, or colorful stilt houses, handicraft markets and UNESCO-listed wooden churches. Consistently covered in a cool grey mist, Chiloé feels strangely unique, mythical even. It’s a land filled with rich folklore, mythology and a quiet, steady magic featuring a vibrant cast of mythical creatures and supernatural beings.

Favorite places to visit in Chile

Contents

• Travel From Puerto Montt to Chiloé Island

• Fall in Love With Hotel & Cava Estancia Rilan

• Explore Downtown Castro

• Learn About the Famed Palafitos

• Shop Dalcahue's Markets

• Lunch at Hospedaje Mirella Restaurant in Tenaún

• Check Out Isla de las Almas Navegantes

• Order In From Rucalaf Chiloé

Travel From Puerto Montt to Chiloé Island

Our final Chilean destination was the charming island of Chiloé, located in southern Chile in Los Lagos Region. Though definitely a trek to reach the island, I loved every minute of our time there. From Torres del Paine, we rode several hours by bus to catch a flight from the southernmost town of Punta Arenas to Puerto Montt. Arriving late in the evening, we stayed overnight to get an early start the next day. From Puerto Montt, we caught another bus to Chiloé Island.

On our way out of Puerto Montt, we stopped for breakfast in town near the bus station at Panichini Cafe Boutique. A chai latte with espresso and Desayuno Ejecutivo with a yogurt parfait, bacon, eggs and toast did the trick.

The bus station, Terminal Buses Pto. Montt, was only a 15 minute walk along the harbor but instead we grabbed an Uber to conserve energy. Inside the terminal, up at the window, we purchased tickets for a 10:45 a.m. bus to Chiloé and made our way on board. The double decker bus was very spacious and comfortable, helping with the three hour ride ahead of us.

Near the end of the ride, something was afoot. The bus had reached Pargua, a village in the commune of Calbuco located on the northeast side of the Chacao Channel. The town sits near Route 5 and connects the village of Chacao to the northern end of Chiloé Island by ferry.

Excited to see what the commotion was about, we hopped off the bus to check things out.

With barely enough room to squeeze between the massive vehicles that had boarded the ferry, we made our way to the top deck to enjoy the views. Though gloomy and grey, it was still great to get some fresh air; we couldn’t wait to land on the island.

Soon enough, we arrived in town at the bus station. On the way out, we picked up some sugar coated peanuts, along with an Uber straight to lunch at Restaurante Al estilo Chef Marce, a Peruvian restaurant focusing on freshness, quality and flavor.

A covered patio filled with dappled light and plant life, the atmosphere was pleasant and welcoming. Exhausted from our travels and an overwhelming menu, we asked for a few of the local favorites.

To begin, we were served a bread basket and side dishes filled with dipping sauces and toasted corn nuts - a life saver. A Peruvian staple, we both chose the chicha morada to drink. Literally meaning purple Chicha (beverage most commonly fermented from corn), chicha morada is a sweet beverage originating in the Andean regions of Perú made with purple corn, pineapple peels, quince, cinnamon and cloves.

For our mains, fried rice with mixed meats including steak, chicken and shrimp and camarones al pilpil, shrimp in white wine sauce with butter and potatoes. Each of the dishes were delicious - fresh and full of flavor - but also comforting, like something homemade.

The staff was very sweet and even offered us a special shot as an aperitif; it was delicious.

Lunch in town also gave us a little peak into downtown Castro, with its cool, grungy atmosphere and vibrant street art.

From there, we picked up another Uber to our stay in Rilan, Hotel & Cava Estancia Rilan, a 45 minute drive southeast but up and around Estero de Castro, a body of water providing access to the smaller islands of the Chiloé Archipelago.

Fall in Love With Hotel & Cava Estancia Rilan

Falling in love with Hotel & Cava Estancia Rilan was inevitable but also gave us our first insights into the very unique culture of the island. Peoples who inhabit the Chiloé Archipelago in southern Chile are called Chilotes. They’re known for a distinct cultural identity, separate from the mainland Chileans, which is a mix of Huilliche and European (primarily Spanish) heritage. A unique group, they honor strong traditions, folklore and craftsmanship.

The Chilote or Chilota mythology is formed by myths, legends and beliefs and reflects the importance of the sea in the life of the Chilotes. This mythology is based upon a mixture of indigenous religions and beliefs from the natives (the Chonos and Huilliches) that live in the Archipelago of Chiloé and the legends and superstitions brought by the Spanish, who began the process of conquest in Chiloé in 1567. With it, came a fusion of elements that would form a separate and distinct mythology.

Isolated from other beliefs and myths in Chile due to the separation of the archipelago from the rest of the Spanish occupation in Chile, Chilota blossomed. The very creation of the Chiloé archipelago itself is even rooted in mythology. Legend has it that the water god rose from the depths of the sea as a massive serpent, intending to drown the lowlands of coastal Chile.

The myths and legends are not just stories; they are deeply embedded in the culture and daily life of the Chilote people and influence their beliefs, traditions and artistic expressions. Some key figures are Caleuche, a ghost ship that sails the seas at night, and the Trauco, a dwarf-like creature that lures women into the woods (often blamed for unwanted pregnancies). Pincoya is a sea goddess linked to the abundance of seafood, her dance embodying the fertility of the sea, and Imbunche is a monstrous being created by warlocks, often depicted as a deformed, hairy being with a twisted leg and forked tongue.

The legends don’t end there. Here are a few more of the most notable:

• The Origin of the Chiloé Archipelago: The legend of how the islands were formed from the battle between two powerful serpent deities, Tenten Vilu and Caicai Vilu. 

• Camahueto: A magical bull-like creature with a unicorn horn, said to live in the forests and possess healing powers. 

• Basilisco Chilote: A snake-like creature with a rooster's crest, said to drain the life force of those it inhabits. 

• Peuchen: A giant, flying snake that sucks the blood of sheep. 

• Millalobo: A sea god who rules over the waters surrounding Chiloé. 

• Coipos: Mythical water creatures inhabiting the rivers and lakes. 

• Fiura: A malevolent spirit that embodies misfortune and feeds on fear. 

• El Cuero: A shapeshifting creature, sometimes appearing as a cowhide, that transforms into a monstrous beast at night. 

• Brujo Chilote: A sorcerer who transforms children into Imbunches. 

• La Condená: A legend of a woman who is eternally condemned. 

• Chucao: A small, native bird whose call is said to foretell good or bad luck. 

• Pincoy: A male counterpart to the Pincoya. 

Hotel & Cava Estancia Rilán by Elohi Collection feels like an extension of the island’s myths. Born out of a fascination to know Chile, its people and its customs, Monica and Rodrigo, two commercial engineers, set off to create a place where details are transformed into the relevant and experiences are what make the difference. They were challenged to put all their energy into a venture where the landscape is lived in first person.

Their hope was to be the link through which guests discover the magic of Chiloé by getting to know its flora and fauna and learning customs of the south. The experience is meant to inspire curiosity, joy, rest and the desire to return and continue to learn.

For this, they worked tirelessly in search of the right location and designing and building a beautiful piece of architecture that would frame the landscape at every turn. Their commitment is to offer a space that integrates with the community through various services like collaborative work with other entrepreneurs on the island like fisherman, artisans, tour guides, restaurants and so on.

Sustainability and respect for the environment are also basic tenants on which the team operate. By respecting and caring for the environment, the two honor the local resources, nature, animals, people and community and go further by taking on additional effort to support their mission. They reforested nearly 400 trees and shrubs on the property, continue to collect rainwater, reuse gray water for irrigation, compost, recycle, use mainly electric energy to heat and an all LED lighting system.

Located on five acres of land, Hotel & Cava Estancia Rilán offer eight rooms and countless living rooms where guests can unwind and observe the vegetation. In the dining room, a toasty fireplace makes all the difference, where you can enjoy a hot cup of coffee or admire the imposing landscape of La Estancia. The Cellar offers 45 wine labels, alongside bites like cheese, ham and pickles. There’s even an outdoor barbecue and massive deck for that rare sunny day.

In the best sense of the word, this boutique hotel hopes to invite you to find the best panoramic view and enjoy a unique experience on the island. Staff can help guests get to know the beautiful churches of Chiloé, enjoy traditional festivals and gastronomy, or surprise them with stunning landscapes and must see tourist attractions.

Truly, I was blown away. Not only is the hotel located in the perfect spot, offering incredible 360 views of the surrounding landscape, but the interior and design was truly something else. There were so many communal spaces, fireplaces, views for days, cowhide rugs and chairs, warm touches with sheep skin rugs and plants and woven pieces. The materials were cozy and natural, woods, furs, leather and stone, in neutral tones of cream, brown and black. Every little detail was thought through. Each corner was something unique, like a million little surprises. The connection to the exterior was seamless and it felt as though you were one with nature. And, our room was gorgeous. Even the shower had views toward the lake and a glass ceiling looking to the sky. I was completely obsessed and wondered how it would be possible to peel myself out of this beautiful space to enjoy the island.

After a tour of the space and some time settling in, we went down to the main living room for a welcome drink and snacks. Both of the juices were made from local berries: one was ungi molinae, commonly known as the Chilean guava berry or strawberry myrtle, which is a shrub native to Chile and nearby regions of southern Argentina. We were also served almonds and dates. 

After traveling such a distance to reach the hotel, it was so lovely to take a moment and pause. We had arrived.

For dinner, we had prearranged meals from a local restaurant. Restaurant Rucalaf invites guests to experience firsthand the countryside and sea of southern Chile, and uniquely Chiloé, with local products and a unique hearty flavor. Their signature cuisine fuses international cooking techniques with local culinary roots.

With a menu that changes daily depending on what’s available and in season, we began with toasted bread and a tomato dip, moving on to fresh local oysters.

For mains, we chose the gnocchi with spicy chorizo ​​sauce and grilled octopus with olives and vegetables, along with a beet salad; the octopus absolutely incredible.

Pudding drenched with stewed calafate berries was my dessert of choice, along with a more traditional chocolate ice cream topped with fresh berries. The calafate berry, scientifically known as Berberis microphylla, is a Patagonian native fruit found in both Chile and Argentina and one that I fell in love with during my time there. Similar to a blueberry, it’s a small dark blueish purple berry with a sweet-tart flavor. The berry can be found in call kinds of yummy treats like jams, jellies and desserts and is considered a "superfood" due to its nutritional properties. Plus, legend has it that anyone who eats a calafate berry will return to Patagonia.

Both delicious but hitting the palette in different ways, I found the chocolate ice cream to be my favorite. The berries on top reminded me of my childhood when I’d slather bowls of chocolate ice cream with my grandma’s raspberry jam - a bit of nostalgia and taste of home.

On top of the crisp white wine we’d been drinking with dinner, we also enjoyed hot mint tea with local honey.

Often tough to impress, I was super pleased and couldn’t wait to see what we’d dive into next, food-wise.

Explore Downtown Castro

The following day, we’d planned to explore Castro with Lili, the young girl at the property who was taking care of the dogs. For $100 USD, she’d take us around the island and introduce us to some of the best spots.

Breakfast was served in the hotel’s main dining room. The night before, we had filled out a card, choosing which items we’d like to have.

Ham, cheese, toast, scrambled eggs, guacamole, fruit salad with banana, mango and apple, cherry and guava jam, butter, honey, juice, coffee, espresso and milk (plus, berry crumble pie) lay before us.

We also met the adorable house pup, wet and soggy from the rain outside but cute as a button.

Around 10:30 a.m., Lili met us at the hotel and we traveled the 40 minutes into town from Rilan. Our first stop was the Investigations Police of Chile (PDI) because we were having issues in Torres del Paine with our hotel requesting our immigration documents to avoid a 19% tax but we were never given such a document upon entering the country.

Tip: Make sure to keep your Chilean Tourist Card in a safe spot. You’ll receive this document upon arrival through any Chilean border control point. The card serves as proof that you’re in the country legally and it also allows an exemption for the 19% VAT on hotel accommodation. To qualify for this exemption, you must present a valid passport and your Tourist Card upon check in.

The officer we spoke with at the agency told us this document was not necessary and we should have no problem getting out of the country (but it was still required to avoid the 19% tax on our hotel room). Still, we submitted a request for the document online.

Plaza de Armas serves as the heart of Castro and refers to the main square of the city. The plaza is home to a central fountain and benches, a well-kept park, surrounding shops, banks, bars and restaurants, local vendors selling handcrafted items and bites and the Church of San Francisco. The Church of San Francisco is the main Catholic church of Chiloé’s capital. Built in 1912, the yellow, early-20th-century church has two steeples and a distinctive wooden interior. The dome above the church’s presbytery stands over 100 feet high with its towers reaching nearly 138 feet. Also known as the Iglesia Apóstol Santiago (St. James Church) and erroneously as the “cathedral,” which is actually found in Ancud, its the headquarters of the diocese of the same name. The building was declared a Chilean National Monument in 1979 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the year 2000 for its unique wooden architecture and blend of European and indigenous culture.

Leaving central plaza, we moved south toward the waterline to check out some shops selling local handmade items in Barrio Patrimonial de Castro, or Castro Heritage Neighborhood. Referring to the historic center and traditional areas within the city of Castro, this zone showcases a rich cultural heritage and resilience of the local community, integrating architectural styles and traditions.

Many of the shops were filled with pieces made from natural materials like wool, leather, wood or grass and some gave nods to the myths and legends surrounding the islands superstitions. Woven baskets, carved bowls and chilly weather gear were the norm.

At the waters edge, Costanera Castro, or Castro’s coast, a huge welcome sign grabs attention and looks out over the water.

This neighborhood is a reminder that the ocean is near and fishing is a significant part of life and economy in Castro and all of Chiloé. The town is well known for colorful fishing boats and fish markets (like Feria Yumbel) where you can find all kinds of fresh seafood. Located on Estero de Castro on the eastern coast of central Chiloé Island, this position provides Castro with perfect access to the eastern islands of Chiloé Archipelago, as well as to the open ocean through Cucao and Huillinco to the west.

Continuing to wander, we moved up and down the steep streets that led from city center to waters edge and back again. My favorite stops were in tiny boutiques selling all kinds of unique handmade goods: jewelry, clothing, home goods, honey, jam, dishes, wooden objects and all kinds of textiles, especially wool.

Carved wooden mythological sculptures lined the streets and captured our attention. Haunting the island through folklore and superstition, each mythical being has a distinct look and meaning.

The Camahueto is a mythical creature described as a bull or calf with a single horn on its forehead, similar to a unicorn. This creature is known for its destructive nature when it grows and travels from rivers to the sea, causing landslides and destruction along the way. However, its horn is also considered a valuable and potent medicine.

The Caballo Marino Chilote (Chilote sea horse) is an aquatic creature that bears some resemblance to the sea horse. Legend has it, the being is an invisible creature, only seen by those with magical powers. The creature appears to be a horse but has a longer snout, golden mane, four paws in the form of fins and a long tail, similar to the tail of a fish. They range in size from dwarfs to giants. The Brujo Chilote (a sorcerer or warlock) uses a "Caballo Marino Chilote" as transportation to get to Caleuche, a legendary ghost ship.

At Barra Cervecera, we stepped inside for a few drinks and were charmed by its damp and moody atmosphere.

Dark wood panels lined the walls, along with dozens of chalkboards outlining the daily specials.

Their green apple juice was incredibly bright and fresh.

The bar also offered a charming view of the candy colored buildings dotting the street, leading to the water.

Vibrant street art continued to follow us as we moved through town. Murals and graffiti can be seen throughout the city, only adding to its colorful and artistic charm. The island's cultural heritage is often reflected in the artwork, with some works drawing inspiration from traditional Chilote motifs or the natural environment.

Up next, the famed palafitos.

Learn About the Famed Palafitos

Along the streets of Pedro Montt and Ernesto Riqelme are an iconic collection of colorful wooden houses built on stilts that float over the water called palafitos. These palafitos capture attention with their unique design and surrounding waterfront.

The structures represent a distinct architectural style adapted to the island’s coastal environment and maritime culture and are common in Chilotan architecture.

These distinctive stilt houses were originally built to allow fishermen a life near the water to dock their boats directly at their homes. Historically, residents would have been able to navigate in and out of the canals from their porches with the tide.

Construction of the palafitos in Castro became popular during the 19th century, brought on by a period of growth, mainly in the fishing industry.

Built on thick poles called piles and using native woods like luma and cypress, the palafito roofs often feature larch shingles, a tough softwood that’s naturally resistant to decay and weathering.

Each palafito typically has two facades: one facing the street, connected by a bridge, and another facing the canal or waterway, often with a terrace or patio used for fishing-related activities.

Today, many palafitos are still inhabited by local islanders but some have been converted into charming boutique hotels, cafes or restaurants, catering to the growing tourism in the area. Cute as can be, the homes reminded me of colorful little Chiclets (if you know, you know).

Shop Dalcahue's Markets

Dalcahue, a small town on Chiloé Island, is renowned for its vibrant artisan and food markets that are a central attraction for visitors looking for unique handicrafts, local flavors and a glimpse into the region's cultural heritage. In my opinion, more interesting than the shops in Castro, those in Dalcahue offered a bit more variety, higher concentration and more upscale pieces.

Near the waterfront municipal building on Pedro Montt, Feria Artesanal de Dalcahue (Artisan Fair) operates Tuesday to Sunday and is particularly busy on Sunday mornings when artisans arrive from across Chiloé to sell their goods. This market is home to traditional Chilote handicrafts like woolen sweaters, hats, socks and blankets, hand dyed with natural pigments, woven baskets and mythical figures crafted from straw, wooden pieces and polished dishes.

The atmosphere is often lively and engaging, with live music filling the air. Vendors are typically artisans selling their own goods and prices are reasonable; bargaining expected.

Other options include Feria Artesanal Manos Chilotas and Mercado Dalcahue. Feria Artesanal Manos Chilotas sits further along Pedro Montt, in a smaller building with open booths and focuses on smaller batch, handcrafted items made by artisans. Mercado Dalcahue is a market known for fresh, local food, particularly seafood and traditional dishes like curanto, chapaleles and milcao, along with empanadas and other regional specialties. It’s a great place to experience the local culinary scene and enjoy fresh, authentic flavors. 

Potatoes in Chiloé! I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention potatoes. The Chiloé Archipelago is a significant center of potato diversity and is considered the origin of most cultivated potatoes outside the Andes, in particular, the subspecies solanum tuberosum tuberosum. With over 400 native potato varieties identified, some of which have been cultivated since before the Spanish conquest, potatoes are not just a staple food but are deeply embedded in Chilote culture, folklore and traditional medicine - and you’ll find them everywhere you go.

Some fascinating facts about the potatoes of Chiloé:

• Chiloé is recognized as the geographical nucleus where the most different types of potatoes are found, second only to the Titicaca region in Peru and Bolivia. 

• The potatoes of Chiloé are specifically adapted to the long summer days of the higher latitude region of southern Chile, unlike those from Peru and Bolivia.

• Potatoes are fundamental to Chilote identity and culture, with a strong connection to traditional practices and folklore. 

• Chilote potatoes are used in a wide variety of dishes, including milcao (a potato pancake), and are also incorporated into stews, porridge and even desserts. 

• Chiloé's unique potato varieties are attracting food enthusiasts from around Chile and beyond, who come to sample them with local seafood like oysters and king crab. 

• The resilience of Chilote potatoes, particularly their ability to thrive in extreme climates with less water, makes them a potential key to sustainable food production in the face of climate change. 

Besides the more formal outdoor markets, there are also several stand alone shops in the area, as well, and some of these were my favorite - with a bit more upscale pieces like El Chilcón Cooperative. Overall, the area offers guests a chance to grab some authentic, handmade Chilote crafts and support local artisans. It’s also one of the best areas to sample fresh seafood and regional delicacies, and experience the vibrant local culture and interact with the community.

Artesanales de Chiloé, offered a cozy vibe, selling small goods like mugs, slippers and socks, alongside ice cream and the best hot cocoa in town.

From Dalcuhue, we moved to Tenaún, a small village 35 minutes northeast.

Lunch at Hospedaje Mirella Restaurant in Tenaún

Tenaún is a picturesque coastal town founded in 1567, known for its historic wooden church, the Church of Tenaún. The town’s name means “three hills” in the Mapuche Huilliche language and reflects its geographical setting and the three pillars of the church. Tenaún is also recognized for its cultural significance, preserving Chilote traditions and serving as a focus for their preservation. 

Our guide, Lili, led us to one of her favorite restaurants for lunch, Hospedaje Mirella Restaurant. Though closed for the day, she called ahead and the owner agreed to cook for us.

The space was rustic and charming, filled with unique objects and wooden tables with white linen. Out fishing that morning, the owner verbally delivered the menu; we could choose from either fish or red meat.

Without hesitation, I selected the fish, a white variety called Pacific sierra, with a fresh calafate juice, while Maylin chose the meat. Pacific sierra, also known as sierra mackerel or Mexican sierra, is a ray-finned bony fish in the family Scombridae, better known as the mackerel family. It was delicate with a firm flaky texture.

And of course, our mains were paired with seasoned potatoes and a side salad.

Beyond the markets of Dalcahue, the town also honors the historic Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (Church of Our Lady of Sorrows), a UNESCO World Heritage Site and architectural marvel built without using a single nail. Referred to as the Church of Tenaún, this Catholic church is a prime example of Chilote wooden architecture and is recognized for its unique design and historical value. 

The Church of Tenaún is one of 16 churches of Chiloé that were declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2000, so make sure to keep your eyes peeled for others on the list.

Check Out Isla de las Almas Navegantes

The last stop of the day was a tiny island reached by carefully crossing a sinking bridge. Aucar Island sits at the end of a 1,675 foot footbridge or can be reached by waiting until the tide is low, when the island becomes part of Isla Grande. The oval shaped island is a mere 1,000 feet long and 360 feet wide, and located opposite the town with the same name.

The region is an important one, home to wetlands with several bird species, including the black necked swan. The island also provides safety to important native flora and fauna and has a botanical garden originating in the 1990s.

A chapel dating from 1761, a cemetery with beautiful gardens and a viewpoint from which you can appreciate the landscape and flocks of black necked swans can also be found on the island.

The first bridge to Isla Grande was built of stone and mud in the 1940s, while the next - a wooden walkway made of luma, coigüel and tepa - was built in 1974. In 2012, it was rebuilt due to its poor condition and was then handed over to the community the following year. Like the footbridge, the chapel has been rebuilt several times throughout its history; the current building was inaugurated in 2018.

Our time on the island was soggy and a bit eerie. We carefully walked across this long wooden bridge with its slick wooden planks and shallow water beneath. The island had huge, tall trees that opened up with a pathway between. As we walked deeper through the trees, eventually the cemetery emerged, along with a small church.

On the return, it felt as if the water level had lowered, making it slightly less daunting to cross the footbridge.

Coined the "Island of Navigating Souls," we found both Aucar and Tenaún to be a lovely spots to experience the rich history, traditions and natural beauty of Chiloé. 

Order In From Rucalaf Chiloé

In the evening, we took a moment to rest and recoup by ordering dinner from local restaurant, Restaurant Rucalaf Chile, once again. Impressed by the presentation, we appreciated being served instead of eating out of takeaway boxes.

This time, feeling a bit nostalgic from our day near the water, I leaned into all things seafood, while Maylin embraced more of the richer meatier flavors. To start, the apps were tartare de centolla (king crab tartar) and locos c/salsa verde (Chilean abalone with green sauce).

A prized delicacy in Chile, locos, also known as Chilean abalone, are a type of marine snail, native to the coasts of Chile and Peru.

For mains, cordero asado al vino tinto (roast lamb in red wine) and fettuccine frutti di mare (literally meaning, “fettuccine with fruits of the sea”) with a side of chapaleles rostizados (a traditional Chilean dumplings made from boiled potatoes and wheat flour).

The lamb was exquisite and the seafood pasta was worth a try but in the end, too seafoody - even for me.

And finally, for dessert: creme brûlée with rosemary and a chocolate ice cream topped with fresh blackberries.

In the morning, we powered up with our typical breakfast spread at the hotel and took off to the tiny local airport about 45 minutes away. The flight from 12:51-02:38 p.m. would land us in Santiago for one last night before heading back to Los Angeles.

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Map of Chiloé