Untouched Beaches, Wild Horses & Bioluminescent Bay of Vieques Island
Best ways to unwind on Vieques Island: a charming travel guide to sun, sea & slow days.
The Boricua spirit is a warm, resilient hymn to Puerto Rico’s island roots — a way of life shaped by history, memory and joy.
Long before maps marked its shores, Puerto Rico was home to indigenous peoples. Then, in 1493 Christopher Columbus arrived and four centuries of Spanish rule began. Over time, African peoples and settlers from the Canary Islands and Andalusia brought their own rhythms, flavors and stories, weaving together a rich cultural tapestry.
By the late 1800s, that blend of indigenous, African and European influences had formed a distinct Puerto Rican identity. After the Spanish-American War in 1898, sovereignty shifted to the United States but the island’s heart — one main island and a scattering of smaller ones like Mona, Culebra and Vieques — kept beating to its own drum.
Vieques, off the eastern coast, has always held a special place in my heart. My grandparents served a church mission there years ago and though my family visited while I was teaching English in South Korea, I missed that trip. When I finally made it, the island felt like a long-awaited letter from an old friend.
In just 52 square miles, Vieques offers untamed landscapes: wild horses roaming quiet roads, beaches that look painted and the otherworldly glow of Bioluminescent Bay. It’s a little slice of paradise that whispers of history, resilience and simple wonder.
Our Puerto Rico adventure kicked off with a cross-country flight from LAX and a brief layover in sunny Fort Lauderdale before landing at Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport in San Juan.
In Viejo San Juan, we wandered beneath centuries-old fort walls, followed a breezy coastline dotted with colorful buildings and happily surrendered to the city’s endless parade of tempting restaurants.
Next, we hopped a ferry to the dreamy island of Vieques. At first, we hit a snag trying to get tickets — told tourists couldn’t board — but persistence paid off: we snagged $2 ferry tickets online and booked a guided Bioluminescent Bay tour for $60 USD, an experience that promised to make the night glow.
What’s Inside | Roadmap
Ferry | Catch the ferry to Vieques Island; book tickets in advance here & if you’re hungry when you land, step into Biekes Bistro
Settle In | Make yourself at home at Hix Island House
Explore | Hike down to Playa Negra
Sunbathe | Sun yourself at Sun Bay Beach
Bite | Breakfast at Rising Roost
Relax | Bask in the sun at Playa la Chiva & pig out at Gracias, De Nada
Glide | Let sparks fly at Bioluminescent Bay
Most Delightful Experiences on Vieques Island
Discover Vieques: a sun-drenched island where powdery beaches, wild horses and a luminous bioluminescent bay invite slow days of barefoot wandering and impossible sunsets. Pack a sense of curiosity and leave the clock behind — this is where island magic quietly finds you.
Catch the Ferry to Vieques Island
San Juan — Puerto Rico’s lively capital — is the perfect springboard for adventures to Vieques Island. Charming cobblestone streets, colorful colonial buildings and a warm island vibe set the scene before you escape to Vieques’s tranquil beaches and hidden coves. The ferry to Vieques sails from Ceiba’s ferry terminal on Puerto Rico’s east coast, run by the Puerto Rico Ferry (Maritime Transportation Authority). Plan ahead and reserve a driver — the ride can take 1 to 1½ hours and typically runs $60–$100 USD each way.
Tip | Arrive at least one hour early, as boarding closes 10 minutes before departure. Note, tourists cannot take vehicles on the ferry.
Our driver, Carlos, collected us at Hotel El Convento in Old San Juan and we settled in for the 90-minute drive to the ferry. We arrived just in time and took seats in the main cabin for the 40-minute crossing. Once we docked, passengers streamed toward the exit, spilling out onto the quay one by one. It wasn’t long before we discovered something delightfully simple: no taxis or rental cars required — a golf cart would do the trick. We strolled to the rental shop and walked away with our little island chariot, $65 USD a day, ready to explore.
Tip | Zip around the island in a golf cart — easy, breezy and a little bit adventurous.
If you’re landing with an empty stomach, wander into Biekes Bistro and expect to be impressed. Ravenous and ready for anything — the place was pulsing with a warm boricua spirit. Juan and Stephanie greeted us like old friends and steered us to the perfect plates based on what we actually like. Juan, the chef, simply asked our favorite flavors and then conjured up meals that felt made just for us.
I had trifongo with shrimp in a bright creole sauce, paired with a passion fruit mojito. Trifongo — think mofongo’s cousin — blends smashed fried green plantains, sweet fried plantains and boiled yuca for a satisfyingly soulful base. My partner chose churrasco and shrimp with rice and beans. Every bite was absolutely delicious; it easily ranked among the best meals of our trip.
Make Yourself at Home at Hix Island House
Stuffed and content, we rolled our luggage toward Hix Island House, a 15-minute drive away by cart. Night had swept the sky into deep velvet, studded with glittering stars and the island felt wonderfully remote — just us and the soft chorus of nighttime chirps and croaks.
After some confusion, we realized out rental space was massive and we couldn’t believe it was all ours. The layout included a large kitchen, dining area, lounge, two bedrooms and two baths with a walkout shower and patio.
In the morning, we prepared breakfast in the room as they had provided essentials like bread, eggs, fruit and coffee. Struggling with the soft white bread and coffee, breakfast wasn’t exactly what I had hoped for but enough to get the day started.
Eventually, we realized Hix Island House has multiple structures and we were in Casa Solaris, the first off-grid guesthouse in the Caribbean. After locating the main lobby, the gentleman there explained the amenities including the pool and yoga classes offered in their outdoor studio, costing $20 USD. And if we were interested in picnicking at the beach, coolers and beach chairs were up for grabs.
Hike Down to Playa Negra
A teeny tiny beach located on the southern side of the island, Black Sand Beach, or Playa Negra, can be reached by parking along the street and hiking down to the waters edge.
A quick 10 to 15 minute walk, the hike was pleasant, along a dirt path lined with thick plant life.
Along the way, tons of brightly colored orange crabs poked out from holes in the hillside. Just as soon as they saw you coming, they would pop back into their holes, hiding from any threat.
Eventually, the pathway opened up into a small black sand beach with steep cliffs on either side. That small opening was really the only area with black sand and it wasn’t all that impressive, to be honest. The sand was soft but the water itself was fairly rough and the beach was filled with a lot of debris and pebbles.
Not likely a beach for swimming, it was still an enjoyable stop. The sand was velvety soft but water soaked, almost like mud, mixed with seaweed and the like.
The best part was discovering some really beautiful petrified black coral that had washed up onto the shore. Keeping it for luck, I walked up and down the beach searching for more treasures.
After wandering the beach for a short time, we moved on to lunch at Bananas, an open air beach bar and grill that offers bar food like burgers, sandwiches, salads and other light bites. We ordered a caesar salad, cheeseburger with fries and green fish curry with rice.
Unfortunately, the meal lacked flavor and the salad had too much dressing, something we came across often on Vieques Island. The food was either really delicious (and often times indulgent) or not so great. Most of the food seemed to be geared toward tourists but not quite pulled off successfully. However, anything authentically Puerto Rican and not a take on American food, was definitely worth a try.
Sun Yourself at Sun Bay Beach
Also located on the south side of the island, was Sun Bay Beach, an idyllic beach just inside the bay of Ensenada Sombe. With soft sand and calm waters protected by the bay, this spot was much better than the last. Nearly deserted, the beach was perfect for a relaxing day in the sun, sand and warm waters.
With no one and nothing around, the beach was completely private. The weather was ideal, clear and warm, and so were the waters of the bay, almost crystal clear.
In the late afternoon, after swimming and sunbathing for hours, we found a food truck called Rincon del Sabor, for another bite to eat. We chose shrimp with plantains and fried chicken with a side salad. This time, all was yummy, crisp and full of flavor.
Back at the hotel, we spent some quiet time by the pool, rested up and prepared for dinner.
For dinner we drove our cart over to Tin Box, a unique restaurant serving up sushi alongside BBQ. To drink, I chose the watermelon margarita and Maylin, a beer. Food-wise, we selected a handful of unusual items from the sushi menu which were definitely not typical but pretty tasty nonetheless.
The lasagna sushi everyone had been raving about was not my favorite but the Dragon Egg and crab dish were both delicious. We also opted for a BBQ plate including ribs, mac and cheese and corn bread, all of which were full of flavor.
Breakfast at Rising Roost
One of the best restaurants in town was Rising Roost and although a 20 minute wait, totally worth it. The interior was super cute, with a covered patio out back where we took our seats. Incredibly busy, we thought it best to place our order quickly, ordering their specialty of sweet cream coffee with condensed milk (similar to Vietnamese coffee), along with a bitter lavender lemonade and mango juice.
To eat, I ordered an acai bowl topped with fresh fruit and an egg in a cup, consisting of a baked hash brown cup with spinach, onions and cheese, covered with egg and bacon.
For Maylin, a bacon and egg grilled cheese sandwich, which she loved. My meal was yummy but a bit on the small side.
Bask in the Sun at Playa la Chiva & Pig Out at Gracias, De Nada
Further east on the southern coastline in barrio Puerto Ferro lies Playa la Chiva, or Blue Beach. It’s one of the prettiest beaches I’ve come across and surely the best we found on Vieques Island. Granted, the sandy shore does have lots of seaweed but other than that its crystal clear waters are nothing short of perfection making it ideal for swimming and snorkeling.
Tucked away in Bahia de la Chiva with the tiny Isla Chiva directly south, we entered this beach through entrance number six and made our way to the white sandy beach. Straightaway, the gorgeous scenic views and turquoise waters were impressive. There were only a few others there, making it perfectly quiet and calm. The beach also felt very clean, without any bugs or small critters. And the bay was incredibly warm, like bath water. Sunbathing and splashing in the warm waters, we stayed on for a few hours; a true paradise.
Without too many options for lunch we pulled over at Gracias, De Nada on the way out and were so glad we did. Maylin obviously got the Cuban sandwich, a variation of a ham and cheese with roast pork and ham, smothered in Swiss cheese, pickles and yellow mustard.
For myself, a classic cheeseburger with all the toppings including pickle, onion, tomato and lettuce. Honestly, it was one of the best burgers I’ve ever had and good reason to eat gluten (sorry, tummy).
Maylin had similar reviews for her sandwich, only comparing it to those she’s tasted in Miami, the Cuban mecca stateside. And then it was back to Hix Island Hotel to get ready for an exciting evening.
Let Sparks Fly at Bioluminescent Bay
Around dinnertime, it was finally time for our trip to Bioluminescent Bay, what I had been anticipating for days with childlike eagerness. Puerto Mosquito Bioluminescent Bay or Mosquito Bio Bay, is a bay on the southern coast of Vieques famous for its bioluminescence produced by the dinoflagellate Pyrodinium bahamense, which glow blue when agitated. A species of phytoplankton, it can only be found in the Virgin Islands, The Bahamas and Puerto Rico.
At 7 p.m. sharp we met our guide, Raul, and a few others in the Esperanza area, a cute little strip near the water with a handful of restaurants. There were also gorgeous gold and peach-colored views of the coastline during sunset and a rope swing down near the water to enjoy.
With two other couples and our guide, we jumped into an oversized van and began driving, reaching a bumpy dirt road leading to the entrance of the bay. After parking, we hopped out into the darkness and pulled on our life jackets. We each grabbed a paddle and then stood quietly in a circle, listening as our guide explained what would happen next and how to maneuver the paddle. With that, it was two per boat (secretly bummed they weren’t glass bottom boats).
Unsure what to expect, we jumped into our paddle boat and began paddling. As we made our way out into the waters, we’d group around our guide regularly as he listed off interesting facts about the bay. Most importantly, what glows are called dinoflagellate and there are four factors that help them glow. Those factors include the salt content at 7% which is higher than the ocean, the mangroves which help filter the water, the moon, though it shouldn’t be too bright, and the red lights surrounding the area which makes everything appear darker. At the time of our visit, about 85% fo the glow was visible, the full 100% had not been seen since the two major hurricanes in 2017, Hurricane Irma and Hurricane Maria.
Initially, I didn’t notice much but the deeper we got into the waters, the darker it became. And then, suddenly I started to see fish zipping around underwater, their trails lighting up in the dark. Sardines and other small fish even jumped up and out of the water, taking the glow with them. It’s oxygen that creates the glow, a blue iridescent shimmering. So, as we paddled, the disturbed water from the swoosh would light up. The glowing was absolutely incredible, like something I’d never seen before and pure magic.
Our group was only on the water for about an hour, which definitely went by too quickly. I asked about swimming in the waters too, which is actually allowed but a bit tough in the pitch black of night. Though disappointed because I wanted to stay longer, we eventually made our way back to shore when I realized I hadn’t even gotten a single photo of the experience. In the morning, we’d ride the ferry back to the main island, taxi to the airport and fly home. What a wonderful experience to end our holiday.
