Plitviče Lakes National Park
Croatia, officially the Republic of Croatia, is a country located in the western Balkans between Central and Southeast Europe. It borders Slovenia, Hungary, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro, with its coast lying entirely on the Adriatic Sea. Croatia’s history is a complicated one, involving countless transitions beginning in the 7th century, reaching the Erdut Agreement in 1995, which created a peaceful resolution to the Croatian War of Independence in eastern Croatia, and finally joining NATO in 2009 and the European Union in 2013. Today, Croatia attracts honeymooners and backpackers alike, boasting delicious Mediterranean fare and gorgeous rocky coastlines. Beautiful islands, diverse national parks and ancient Roman ruins that give Game of Thrones vibes, don’t hurt either.
Plitviče Lakes National Park, pronounced “pleet-veet-sa,” is a 121 square mile forest reserve in central Croatia. It’s the oldest national park in the country and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. Most noteworthy are the picturesque series of tufa lakes and caves connected by waterfalls. Visitors can follow four hiking trails organized into seven different routes within the park. The 16 terraced lakes, joined by waterfalls, extend into a limestone canyon while walkways and hiking trails wind around and across the water; an electric boat connects the 12 upper and four lower lakes. The national park is the most popular tourist attraction in Croatia, so be sure to purchase tickets beforehand as only a certain number are sold each day. Allow at least four to five hours to explore the grounds and pack a lunch, since there are limited options.
My two weeks exploring Croatia and Montenegro began in Croatia’s coastal town of Dubrovnik, also known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” followed by a day trip to Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, little gem of the Balkans. From Dubrovnik, I moved north up the coast by ferry to Split, a Dalmatian seaside city brimming with Roman ruins and natural splendor, then spent a day exploring local islands and caves like Blue Cave, Stiniva Cove, Budikovac and Hvar. Moving inland, I traveled to Plitviče Lakes National Park in central Croatia before passing through Croatia’s capital, Zagreb, and flying to Podgorica, Montenegro’s capital. While in Montenegro, I traveled to Adriatic’s coastal medieval town of Kotor and joined day trips to northern Montenegro’s Durmitor National Park, Tara Canyon and Ostrog Monastery and greater Montenegro’s Lovćen’s Mausoleum, Royal Old Capital and Skadar Lake.
Favorite places to visit in Croatia
Contents
Travel From Split to Plitviče National Park
Enter the National Park & Choose a Route
Hike the Upper Lakes
Cross Kozjak Lake by Boat & Grab a Bite
Explore the Lower Lakes
Stay the Night at B&B Plitvice Hill
Travel From Plitviče Lakes to Kotor, Montenegro
Travel From Split to Plitviče National Park
From my hostel in Split, Hostel Dvor, I packed up all my belongings and checked out. I’d booked a day trip north to Plitviče Lakes and decided to use that as my jumping off point for my next destination of Kotor, Montenegro. Dragging my suitcase over the pebbled streets, I made my way to the taxi stand where I’d meet my tour group and hop on the bus. My plan was to stay at a cabin in the woods near the lakes for a night or two because I heard getting a ride, or taxi, up there was difficult and expensive, so using the tour as transportation worked out perfectly.
Luckily, our group was fairly small, about 15 of us in total, who fit nicely into a small tour bus. Clara was our guide for the day. During the week, she’s a teacher; she’s super funny and had a laugh that went, ‘eh eh eh.’ Clara spent much of the ride chatting with me and rattling off interesting facts about where we were headed to the group, along with starting a What’s App group where we could all chat and send photos. She also explained that a traditional Balkan breakfast included coffee and a cigarette but we’d be lucky enough for something more.
After we took of from Split, we drove three and a half hours north over the mountains, through a massive tunnel and to the other side toward Plitviče. On the way, we stopped for breakfast and coffee at a little shop. It was buffet style but some of the items were a little bizarre for breakfast, like the french fries, chicken and soup. Hard boiled eggs, croissants, juice and coffee were more my speed and I also picked up a sandwich for lunch at the park, which turned out to be a great idea; there aren’t many options besides burgers.
Enter the National Park & Choose a Route
As we approached the park, we entered through Entrance 2. Our driver parked and we unloaded. The weather was chilly and a little wet, so I brought along a rain jacket just to be safe, along with my camera, snacks and water. Before hopping on the train, Clara gathered us round to give us some initial info about the park. The area has over 60 caves and is home to bats, butterflies and birds such as the falcon, along with the Canadian lynx, grey wolf and brown bears, which have been known to attack. Around the lakes, fish, water snakes, ducks, crabs and wasps are common. The park closes at 3 p.m. and we’d meet at the souvenir shop around 2:50 p.m.
Plitviče Lakes is the oldest and largest national park in the Republic of Croatia. It’s situated in the mountainous region of Croatia between the Mala Kapela Mountain range in the west and northwest, and the Lička Plješivica mountain range to the southeast. With such incredible natural beauty, this area has always attracted nature lovers, becoming Croatia’s first national park in April of 1949.
The creation of the lakes centers around tufa formation, which results in the building of tufa, or travertine, barriers. The lakes were celebrated in October 1979 by joining the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. The boundaries of the national park expanded in 1997 and today cover just under 115 square miles. Plitviče Lakes National Park remains an area of extraordinary biological and geological diversity, with over a million people visiting the park annually and nearly 7,000 daily. Sadly, Clara told us that entry fees into the park have risen in recent times, often excluding locals except on special days when they get a deeper discounting.
The park is open to guests year-round but only sells a certain number of tickets each day (currently 7,000) due to recent overcrowding. Visitors are not allowed to stray off path, remove any plant life, swim in the lakes, smoke, feed animals or leave rubbish behind in efforts to preserve and protect the area for future generations. It’s also good to note the weather may change swiftly, so ensure you wear the right footwear and clothing, opting for a rain jacket, along with sunglasses, sunscreen, hat and umbrella. Additionally, the walking trails in the park are relatively narrow and pass through uneven terrain and over wooden bridges along the lake shores. The wooden bridges are particularly tricky, especially with large crowds.
The park is mostly covered in forest vegetation with smaller areas of grasslands. The most enticing part of the park, the lakes, cover just under 1% of the park. The lake system is made up of 16 named and several smaller unnamed lakes, cascading one into the next. Due to the geological foundation and distinctive hydrogeological conditions, the lake system has been divided into the Upper Lakes and Lower Lakes.
The twelve lakes forming the Upper Lakes are Prošćansko Jezero, Ciginovac, Okrugljak, Batinovac, Veliko Jezero, Malo Jezero, Vir, Galovac, Milino Jezero, Gradinsko Jezero, Burgeti and Kozjak. These lakes were formed on impervious dolomite rock and are larger, with more forgiving shores than the Lower Lakes. The Lower Lakes consist of the Milanovac, Gavanovac, Kaluđerovac and Novakovića Brod, and were formed in permeable limestone substrate, cut into a deep canyon with steep cliffs. These lakes end with the impressive Sastavci waterfalls and the Korana River springing up under the foot of the falls.
Hike the Upper Lakes
The park offers eight different routes to explore the lake system along with four hiking trails that offer more of a secluded experience. To ease movement through the lake zone, visitors entering the park at Entrance 1 can choose between four routes, marked in green on the information panels. The four routes beginning at Entrance 2 are marked in orange. Visitors may also ride across Kozjak Lake on an electric boat by showing their park entrance ticket.
Depending on the trail chosen, guests need anywhere from two to eight hours to explore. Our group entered Entrance 2 and jumped on a shuttle from Station 2 up to Station 3 at the top of the Upper Lakes. There, we began Route H, beginning with the Upper Lakes, crossing Kozjak Lake and later moving to the Lower Lakes.
Once at the top of the Upper Lakes, we unloaded and began walking through a dense forest along a marked path. The grounds were wet and soggy and there was an occasional small sized waterfall. I remember thinking how lucky I was to land here in October. The colors of fall were evident and made for a gorgeous backdrop.
One by one, we began to explore the 12 Upper Lakes beginning with Prošćansko Jezero, with the highest altitude and ending with the lowest, Lake Kozjak. The 12 lakes sit on a waterproof dolomite substrate and were formed in the late Triassic Period. They are interconnected and separated by natural travertine and tufa barriers.
Prošćansko Lake is the second largest in the lake system and covers an incredible 168 acres of land, with a depth of 120 feet. Due to its width and depth, the water has a dark green hue and often reflects the surrounding forest, according to season.
The sound of distant waterfalls came and went as we moved through the leafy forests. Water almost seemed to be oozing out of everywhere.
Of course, I was on the hunt for anything unique, be it insects, critters or birds. My first spotting was a bug curled up amongst the autumn leaves.
And then we emerged out of the forest, alongside a gorgeous lake overgrown with wild plant life; a path curling around its edge.
Ciginovac Jezero, or Ciginovac Lake, is the second highest lake in the lake system and covers an area of 17 acres at 36 feet deep. A natural travertine dam borders the lake, with collapsed travertine blocks in its southeastern portion. The northern shores are bordered by a steep hill that offers gorgeous views over the lake, while the western shores are bordered by thick forests. The lowest point of the lake forms a barrier and flows into the next Upper Lake, Okrugljak Jezero.
Our group followed Clara closely, waiting to hear what she had to say about the lake. The waters along the path were quite shallow and it was possible to see small fish swimming about and several large trees that had fallen into the lake and were submerged underwater.
The walk was peaceful and calm and toward the end of the lake we came upon a waterfall spilling over from a cliff above.
Okrugljak Lake is accessible with wooden walkways and paths and offers a lighter aquamarine color with depths of nearly 50 feet. Its shores are bordered by barriers and low vegetation. At the southern area of the lake, waters flow over a barrier into the fifth lake Veliko Jezero.
The waterfall had shaped the cliff into a beautiful smooth rounded shape and was bouncing off, misting in all directions. After a few moments, we continued to move on to the next lake.
Veliko Lake is among the smallest of the lakes, with a depth of 26 feet it covers nearly five acres. The waters are a yellowish turquoise color due to its depth and surrounding vegetation. The waters are observed by a wooden pathway surrounding the lake. The edge of the southeast lake forms a low barrier where water flows down into Malo Jezero, Vir and Galovac.
More like a million tiny waterfalls, this one was impressive and it was possible to see what looked like a cave beyond the crashing waters.
Continuing to move around the waterfall from all angles, it didn’t stop but it wasn’t possible to get very close because the wooden path kept its distance and the edge around the path was covered with thick plant life.
The trail wrapped around the edge of the lake and then moved upward, revealing views from above and some of the best to come.
Malo Jezero is the sixth highest lake in the system and is another one of the smaller lakes, covering only two and a half acres with a depth of 30 feet. The lake is bordered by low barriers, several small waterfalls and cascades and tall trees. It is a rich vibrant green color and has wood pathways that surround the lake and make for a gorgeous stroll. At the southeast edge, water cascades over a barrier into Vir Jezero.
Vir Lake is the seventh highest lake in the lake system and the smallest. It’s located near the path leading around the south side of Veliko Lake and is a flat area with a wooden walkway along the lake. At its southern shore, a low barrier allows water to flow down into Galovac Lake.
Galovic Lake is the third largest lake in the system at 30 acres and is one of the most beautiful. Along the northern side of the lake, below the slopes of Stubica Hills, are stunning dolomite rocks covered with low deciduous trees and shrubs. The entire east side of the lake is dotted with waterfalls, called Prštavci, Veliki Prštavac and Mali Prštavac, crashing down into the lake from a 65-foot-high travertine barrier. The western side of the lake is made of travertine barriers fed by waters from Batinovac, Vir and Malo Jezero with waterfalls flowing over the barriers.
The highest waterfall in this area is Galovacki buk at 52 feet high and 16 feet wide. The shores of the lake are bordered by larch trees making the water a deep, dark green color due to the surroundings and depth of the water at nearly 80 feet deep. The area surrounding the lake has many paths and walkways, one of which leads to Tomićev pogled, a lovely scenic lookout offering sweeping views over Plitvice Lakes.
Milino Jezero is one of the smallest lakes, appearing more like a stream. The shallow lake is yellowish in color and is located between Gradinsko and Galovac Lakes. It’s covered with reeds, moss and other low vegetation and flows into Gradinsko Jezero.
Gradinsko Lake is one of the largest lakes at 20 acres and a depth of 32 feet. Gradinsko forms an interesting L-shape with waters that change from light greenish turquoise to milky white in the shallow parts of the lake. Deeper areas reach a dark green and reflect much of the surrounding vegetation. In the center of the lake, guests can see yellow shadows from a flooded barrier.
The lake was once made of at least two lakes separated by barriers. The milky white color of the lake is locally called bjelar, meaning “white”, and comes from the travertine mud patches not yet covered by plants. This area is also known for duck sightings, as it’s their favorite nesting area.
The lake is surrounded by tall fir, pine and beech trees along wooden walkways and paths that lead around the lake. Some of the viewpoints offer spectacular panoramic views over Veliki Prstavac and Mali Prstavac waterfalls, as well as Galovacki Buk. At the end of the lake, water flows into Burgeti Lake and eventually Kozjak Lake.
Burgeti Lakes are tiny, interconnected ponds separated by porous travertine barriers. Among the dotted ponds, Veliki Burget, or Large Burget, and Mali Burget, or Small Burget, are easily recognizable as the largest portions of the water. On the southern shores of Burgeti, waters flow from Gradina Hill into Kozjak Lake.
The lakes and waterfalls just before Kozjak Lake were some of my favorite. The colors were so vibrant and the waters were so close; if only we could jump in for a swim.
Cross Kozjak Lake by Boat & Grab a Bite
Kozjak Jezero is the largest and deepest lake in the lake system, at over 200 acres and with depths over 150 feet. The lake was formed by the natural flooding of waterfalls and the merging of two lakes, its barrier still visible in front of Matijaševića draga Bay. The lake stretches from the northwest to southwest and has a deep dark color of green and turquoise. In the middle of the lake, lies a small islet called Štefanijin otok and at its edge, waters flow into Milanovac Lake.
We were guided by Clara to take the electric boat across Lake Kozjak. Waiting in line was something else. The park was fairly busy, even with the gloomy weather, so the boats were packed, and they moved slowly. Finally, it was our turn to board and move ever so steadily across the lake, reaching the shores shared by the Lower Lake of the park.
Upon reaching the shores, our group set off in search of hot coffee, snacks and restrooms. We had a short time before we’d be back on the trails exploring with Clara.
Thankfully, I’d brought along a sandwich to enjoy. I sat down and tried to warm up with a hot coffee as the temperatures began to drop and a light mist fell from the sky.
Explore the Lower Lakes
The Lower Lake system is made up of four lakes divided by limestone (tufa) barriers including Milanovac, Gavanovac, Kaluđerovac and Novakovića Brod. They were shaped in permeable limestone, slicing into a deep canyon with steep cliffs reaching heights of 130 feet. The lakes grand finale are the impressive Sastavci waterfalls and the Korana River at the base of the falls.
Belonging to the Donja Jezera, or Lower Lakes, Milanovac Jezero is the first and highest lake in the Lower Lake system. It’s among the smaller lakes in the whole lake system but the largest of the Lower Lakes, covering almost eight acres with a depth of nearly 60 feet. The lake is fed by waters from Kozjak, forming a beautiful 30 foot tall Milanovački Slap Waterfall, earning its name from a local farmer who used to have a mill on the lake.
The lake sits inside a canyon, bordered by rocks and cliffs, with some more than 65 feet tall. The lower walking path leads alongside the lake, while above another path moves along the cliff’s upper levels where there are perfect locations to enjoy panoramic views. Depending on the time of day and weather conditions, the waters of the lake appear light green and blue in color, while the surface reflects the colors of the season.
At the eastern edge of the lake, a plateau ends with a barrier and waterfalls that flow into Lake Gavanovac.
Gavanovac Jezero, also known as Gavanovo, is the second highest lake in the Lower Lakes. It’s among the smallest lakes in the whole system, covering an area of almost two acres with a maximum depth of just over 30 feet. The lake is fed by waters from Milanovac, which form the stunning Milke Trnine Waterfalls.
Gavanovac received its name after Gavan, a legend of a local man who hunted for treasure near this lake. Located in a deep canyon bordered by inaccessible cliffs, a walking path leads across the lake to the west along several cascades and further to other lakes, while an upper level walking path offers great spots to view the entire canyon.
At the edge of the northeastern side of the lake, another plateau is formed and leads to a barrier and waterfalls. Here, large cascades named Velike Kaskade flow into into Kaluđerovac, the next lake.
Looping around the path before reaching higher canyon views, Clara led us to the Great Waterfall. Sastavci Waterfall, also known as Sastavci Slap, is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the park. It’s situated among gorgeous surroundings on the edge of Novakovica Brod, where Korana River falls an incredible 85 feet. Great Waterfall lies in the background, an impressive 255 feet tall and the highest at the national park (and all of Croatia). Velili Slap sits at the very end of the Lower Lakes and is fed by the waters of the Plitviča Potok River.
It’s those waters from the Plitviča Potok River that make this waterfall unique. This waterfall varies in that it’s not formed by the spilling of waters from the Upper Lakes to the Lower Lakes. Veliki Slap is the one true waterfall in the park and receives its water from the Plitvica Potok, a river extending nearly two miles to the west of the fall.
Depending upon the season in which you visit, the waterfall can take on various states. During the winter, the waterfall almost completely freezes over, forming a giant frozen ice sculpture. If you’re lucky enough to visit the falls after heavy rain, you’ll likely see the waterfall in all its glory, pushing out massive amounts of water.
Kaluđerovac Jezero, also known as Kaluđerovo, is the third highest lake of the Lower Lakes. It’s one of the largest in this part of the system, spreading across five acres with a maximum depth of nearly 46 feet. The lake is fed by waters from Gavanovac through the Great Cascade falls. Kaluđerovac received its name after Kaluđer, the local monk who used to spend his time in the cave above the lake, Šupljara Cave.
Set in the steepest part of the canyon, lined with cliffs, some more than 130 feet high, the lake is filled with fish. It’s waters a clear emerald green, vibrant and reflective. At the edge of the lake, is a six foot tall reed covered plateau, travertine barrier, where a wooden path rises above water flowing into the next lake, Novakovića Brod.
Novakovića Lake is the most recent and lowest lakes at Plitviče Lakes national park. It’s the smallest lakes covering an area of about one acre and a depth of 10 feet. The lake is fed by Kaludjerovac through a six foot high travertine barrier, creating a series of tiny waterfalls. Leading over the barrier is a wooden path, along with additional paths alongside the lake leading toward Kozjak Lake and the ones high above in the Upper Lakes region.
Novakovića received its name after local man who used to cross the lake with his boat. Located at the end of the Lower Lakes canyon, waters from this lake fall over 80 feet, forming Sastavci Waterfalls.
A true panoramic view of Novakovića Brod, Kaludjerovac Lake and Sastavci Waterfalls, it’s absolutely incredible to see how massive the lakes and waterfalls are, stretching across much of the land, weaving in and out of the landscape with ease.
Incredibly, the waterfalls at the national park grow each year. Formed by travertine dams, they grow about 0.4 inches (1 cm) per year. The lakes are fed by rivers that flow over limestone and chalk, creating natural dams made of travertine. A type of limestone that forms when calcium carbonate from the water sticks to algae, bacteria and moss, the travertine (dams) act as a natural barrier splitting the river into lakes.
As water flows over the dams, it erodes the travertine, though more travertine forms at the base of the waterfalls. This process of travertine formation and erosion is constantly happening, causing the lakes to change shape and size over time. In that sense, I can imagine returning for a visit several years from now might show newly formed or shaped lakes and waterfalls.
Overall, the park was a major highlight and a treat to explore. This circular program gives you the opportunity to enjoy the beauty of the park’s entire lake area and the wooden paths felt quite magical, like we were walking on water.
Keep in mind, Croatia has been concerned about the health of the park with so many visitors and has lowered the number of guests that can enter. It’s best to purchase tickets online a few days in advance or you may not be able to get inside. However, I did hear there are a certain number of tickets available at each entrance, so it’s possible if you can’t get into one you could try another. Also note, sometimes certain entrances are closed so verify beforehand if possible as traveling to another one is not quick.
Stay the Night at B&B Plitvice Hill
As the tour ended, I gave a farewell to Clara and the rest of the group. I had booked a room in a nearby cabin just above the lakes for the next two nights. The host at B&B Plitvice Hill was incredibly really kind and picked me up from the park, returning back to the property.
Above all else, I was so happy to warm up and enjoy a lovely stay in a cozy little cabin.
In the evening, I stopped for dinner at a local spot called Plitvice Faus Cottage. The only one dining, I ordered both sea bass and trout filets, with sea bass being my favorite, along with potato, salad, bread, homemade tzatziki sauce and a mint tea. Everything was delicious.
Exhausted from moving so much, I spent the rest of my time resting in the cabin. It felt good to be warm and dry. The continental breakfast consisted of tiny pancakes, Nutella, meats, cheese, cucumber, tomato, bread, hard boiled eggs and coffee. I did try to visit a local reindeer farm but it was closed for the day. In the morning, I’d travel to Kotor, Montenegro through Croatia’s capital city, Zagreb, and southern town of Dubrovnik.
Travel From Plitviče Lakes to Kotor, Montenegro
My 24 journey from Plitviče National Park in Croatia to Kotor, Montenegro:
Plitvice National Park 》Zagreb Bus Terminal (2 hours via bus)
Zagreb Bus Terminal 》Zagreb Airport (20 minutes via taxi)
Zagreb Airport 》Dubrovnik Airport (1 hour via plane)
Dubrovnik Airport 》Dubrovnik Bus Terminal (20 minutes via taxi)
Dubrovnik Bus Terminal 》Border (1 hour via bus) 》Kotor Bus Terminal (2 hours via bus)
Kotor Bus Terminal 》Hotel (15 minutes via foot)
A UNESCO World Heritage Site in the heart of Croatia since 1979, Plitvice Lakes National Park is known for its picturesque series of tufa lakes, caves, canyons and connected waterfalls that reach over 250 feet high. The emerald green lakes can be explored via a series of wooden paths and trails that surround the 16 lakes and over 90 waterfalls.