Diocletian's Palace in Split: Undiscovered Roman Ruins & Hidden Passageways
Best things to do in Split: fall for Dalmatia’s timeless charm as this travel guide leads history lovers through the city’s ancient alleys, palaces and hidden ruins.
Why You’ll Fall for Split
Officially the Republic of Croatia, Croatia sits where Central Europe meets the Balkans, its entire coastline opening onto the Adriatic Sea. Rugged and radiant, the country is famed for sun-drenched beaches, medieval fortresses and a rocky coast that looks ready-made for television epics. Seafood and local wine are reasons enough to visit; the clear, often brisk waters and near-constant sunshine are pleasant bonuses.
Historically called Spalato, Split is Croatia’s second-largest city and a bridge between ancient and modern life. Founded around the late Roman Emperor Diocletian’s retirement palace, the city grew from that imperial compound into a bustling port and urban center. Diocletian’s Palace remains the beating heart of Split — an extraordinary, millennia-old labyrinth of courtyards, cellars and narrow streets where people still live and work among the ruins.
From Split’s eastern Adriatic shore you can island-hop across the Dalmatian coast’s thousand-plus islands. In about an hour by speedboat you can reach the Blue Cave, a sea cave that glows with surreal blue light on sunny days. On Vis, the secluded Stiniva Cove hides behind a narrow rock mouth and must be reached by small boat or by swimming. The Blue Lagoon offers tranquil, crystalline waters for swimming and sunbathing, while Hvar — one of the larger islands — pairs a lively nightlife with a handsome historic center and excellent food.
Split’s mix of layered history and easy access to island secrets makes it a uniquely compelling base for exploring Dalmatia.
Two-Week Travel Itinerary
I spent a few delightful weeks roaming Croatia and Montenegro. My journey began in Dubrovnik, the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” then I slipped across the border for a day trip to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina, a little Balkan jewel with a bridge that feels like a storybook come to life.
From Dubrovnik, I rode the ferry north to Split, a sun-warmed Dalmatian city where Roman ruins peek out from between lemon trees. A speedboat whisked me away to the luminous Blue Cave and a scatter of shimmering islands.
Nature called next at Plitviče Lakes National Park — a spellbinding forest of 16 terraced lakes and cascading waterfalls carved into a vast limestone canyon. On my way out of Croatia, I passed through lively Zagreb before flying to Podgorica.
From there, I followed the Adriatic coast to the medieval walled town of Kotor, my base for day trips into Montenegro’s dramatic interior: the rugged beauty of Durmitor and Tara Canyon, the serene holiness of Ostrog Monastery and the sweeping views and history around Lovćen’s Mausoleum, the Royal Old Capital and tranquil Skadar Lake.
What’s Inside | Roadmap
01 | How to get to Split
02 | Arrive in Split & gorge on delicious pizza; stay here — Hostel Dvor — & grab a bite at Mediterraneo Restaurant & Pizzeria
03 | Savor a delightful brunch at Ciri Biri Bela
04 | Reserve your Split-based tours — stop by Pelican Tours Split
05 | Stroll seaside & enter Diocletian's Cellars
06 | Praise Central Square of Diocletian's Palace
07 | Show reverence at Cathedral of Saint Domnius
08 | Ascend Saint Domnius Bell Tower
09 | Witness a cappella singing in the vestibule
10| Explore Diocletian's living quarters
11 | Grab a bite at Fig Split — if you dare
Day Trip | Jump aboard a speedboat & let the sea breeze whisk you to the surrounding Dalmatian islands in Croatia’s Dalmatian Isles
Split for the History Lover: Wandering Diocletian’s Palace, Roman Ruins & Timeless Adriatic Stories
Wander through Split’s sunlit alleys where ancient Roman walls meet a bustling waterfront café scene and savor seaside sunsets, fresh seafood and centuries of Dalmatian charm. Let Diocletian’s Palace lead you from hidden courtyards to lively markets — perfect for slow exploration and unexpected discoveries.
With just three days in Split — one spent island hopping and another lost to food poisoning — I had a single sunlit day to wander the city. Come stroll with me: a history-lover’s walking tour through stone streets, hidden courtyards and seaside views, topped off with a few irresistible bites along the way.
01 | How to Get to Split
Split sits like a sun-warmed gateway on Croatia’s central Dalmatian coast — a short sail or drive south of Zadar, north of Dubrovnik, and an easy island-hop from Hvar — and travelers most often reach it by plane, ferry, bus, car or catamaran, with scenic coastal views, ancient towns and shimmering Adriatic islands unfolding along the way.
Plane | Fly into Split Airport (SPU) from a variety of international destinations — either direct or with connections through hubs like Zagreb, Vienna or London — and expect flight times to vary: about 35–45 minutes from Zagreb and roughly 1–3 hours from most other European cities.
Fares also fluctuate by route and season; a domestic or regional hop such as Zagreb–Split typically runs €40–120 ($44–132 USD), while international tickets often range from €50 up to €300 or more ($55–330+ USD).
On your final approach you’ll often be treated to sweeping coastal panoramas of the Adriatic, nearby islands and the marble roofs of Split, while flights from Zagreb cross inland plains and rolling hills.
Bus (Long Distance Coach) | Taking a long-distance coach is an easy, scenic way to reach Split from cities like Zagreb, Zadar, Dubrovnik, Šibenik and even Mostar in Bosnia. The journey times vary — roughly 4½–5½ hours from Zagreb, about 1½–2 hours from Zadar and around 3½–4½ hours from Dubrovnik, although traffic can add to the Dubrovnik trip.
Fares are reasonable: expect to pay about HRK 120–200 ($18–30 USD) from Zagreb or Dubrovnik and HRK 40–80 ($6–12 USD) from Zadar.
Along the way you’ll pass stretches of Dalmatian hinterland, pine-covered limestone hills and, as the coach descends toward the sea, sweeping seaside vistas dotted with small coastal towns and busy little ports.
Car | Driving to Split from other parts of Croatia is straightforward and rewarding: from Zagreb the trip via the A1 motorway takes about 4–5 hours, from Zadar roughly 1.5–2 hours and from Dubrovnik approximately 3.5–4.5 hours depending on border waits, traffic and whether you use the Pelješac Bridge route.
Expect to pay for fuel and tolls — fuel runs about HRK 12–15 per liter (around $1.80–2.30 USD per liter; $6.81–8.71 USD per US gallon) and tolls on the Zagreb–Split route are roughly HRK 120–200 ($18–30 USD), while rental cars vary widely in price, typically between €30 and €90 per day.
The drive treats you to dramatic mountain passes, archaeological ruins, olive groves, coastal cliffs and sweeping island views from scenic overlooks, and gives you the freedom to stop in charming historic towns like Šibenik or Trogir along the way.
Ferry or Car Ferry | Ferries and car ferries run from nearby islands like Brač, Hvar and Vis to Split, with the Brač (Supetar) crossing taking about 50 minutes, the Hvar (Stari Grad) trip lasting roughly 1.5 to 2.5 hours depending on the service and the Vis crossing about 2 to 2.5 hours.
Passenger fares generally range from HRK 30 to 120 (around $4.50–18 USD), while tickets for a car plus passengers are higher — typically HRK 150 to 500 (about $22–75 USD) depending on route and seaso.
Along the way you’ll enjoy close-up views of island coastlines, fishing villages, turquoise bays and the approach to Split’s harbor and lively Riva promenade.
Catamaran or Fast Ferry (Passenger Only) | You can travel by catamaran or passenger-only fast ferry from Hvar, Korčula, Dubrovnik (seasonal), Bol on Brač and other Dalmatian islands; the trip from Hvar to Split takes about one to one-and-a-half hours, Korčula to Split about two to three hours and the seasonal high-speed service from Dubrovnik to Split roughly three to four hours.
Fares generally range from HRK 80 to 250 (about $12–37 USD) depending on distance and season and along the way you’ll enjoy open-sea crossings with island-dotted vistas, the occasional dolphin sighting and clear views of Split’s waterfront as you approach.
Train | Taking the train from Zagreb to Split is a relaxed, if somewhat slow, option: services are limited and you may need to connect by bus, with the journey typically taking around six to eight hours — trains are slower and less frequent than buses.
Expect to pay roughly HRK 100–200 (about $15–30 USD) and enjoy a scenic ride through inland countryside, river valleys and small towns for a more leisurely, less coastal-oriented route.
02 | Arrive in Split & Gorge on Delicious Pizza
Reaching Split can turn into a little seaside adventure. My route — I set off from Dubrovnik and boarded a coastal ship for just $12 USD. The five-hour trip felt like a slow, scenic parade, pausing at island stops — Pomena, Korčula, Hvar, Milna — before finally arriving in Split. The ride was delightful and a friendly crew member even let me stand on the bow by the captain’s chair to breathe in the salt air. It felt gloriously special, until the open sea breeze turned sharp and I ran inside to warm up.
When the boat slid into Split, we spilled out in a slow, sleepy procession. I meandered into town at my own unhurried pace and arrived at Hostel Dvor in about fifteen minutes. The route was easygoing — until the cobbles began. My suitcase and I had a gentle tango, bumping over each stone as if the street itself were keeping time.
Tip | Once the ferry docks in Split, it’s usually just a 10–15 minute stroll into town to reach your accommodation. A quick note: the city’s cobblestone streets add to its charm but they can make rolling suitcases a bit of an adventure — consider a softer-wheeled bag or a backpack for an easier walk.
Famished and irritable, I set off on foot as the light waned, worrying that kitchens might be shutting. Fortune smiled on me in Old Town, where I stumbled upon the charming Mediterraneo Restaurant & Pizzeria. Seated outdoors, I tucked into a Greek salad dotted with generous clouds of fresh feta and a large pizza piled with olives, artichokes and prosciutto. It was pure perfection — I devoured every last bite with unabashed delight.
Tip | If you roll into Split late, don’t wait — grab a bite and start your evening. Many kitchens wind down around 10 p.m. but a handful of fast-food spots and kebab joints keep the lights on later. You can also summon dinner to your door with delivery apps like Wolt or Glovo.
03 | Savor a Delightful Brunch at Ciri Biri Bela
Begin your morning with a wholesome breakfast — you’ll want fuel for the day’s discoveries. My first day in a new city always feels a little like unwrapping a gift. With no expectations, I lace up my shoes, step outside and let the streets lead me. Wandering around helps me learn the city’s layout; along the way, I make a mental list of places that catch my eye and allow the day to unfurl at its own gentle pace.
Ciri Biri Bela sits in Varoš, one of Split’s oldest, most authentic neighborhoods — perched on the fringe of the historic old town and tucked just behind the Croatian National Theatre. Family-run and named after a catchy Dalmatian song that charms both young and old, the restaurant aims to charm visitors in the same way.
Slip beyond a thick white stone wall, descend a few steps beneath street level and find yourself in a lovely courtyard. Settle into a seat and breathe in the calm, ready for whatever the day will bring.
Discover an eclectic menu that marries sun-kissed Mediterranean flavors with rustic Dalmatian charm, all centered on fresh, organic and locally sourced ingredients. Ćiri Biri Bela has earned a reputation for outstanding breakfast, brunch and dinner — everything made with care, often using produce and goods from the family farm.
Mornings and late mornings are a highlight: picture sunny-side-up Sunny Chilli Cheese Eggs on sourdough with creamy avocado and a drizzle of chilli oil, fluffy organic omelettes, house-made granola and indulgent sweet or savory breakfast boards. For lunch and dinner, expect comforting local classics alongside shareable, tapas-style plates — think black octopus risotto, slow-cooked veal, tender lamb chops, parmesan-crusted chicken and a rotating selection of small plates meant for savoring and passing around.
The menu is thoughtful and inclusive, with plenty of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free choices — from vibrant vegan bruschetta to hearty baked potatoes and a delightful veggie pastry pizza. Finish with a treat: freshly squeezed juices, a matcha bowl, locally roasted coffee, regional wines and house-baked pastries like pistachio or salted caramel pancakes that make the perfect ending to any meal.
My order arrived like a little celebration, artfully arranged on wood-carved boards and in lovely ceramic dishes. The spread — complete with a dirty chai latte and a Women’s Health platter — offered an array of irresistible bites: freshly baked French bread, fried eggs, vanilla yogurt topped with fruit and nuts, smoked salmon with wasabi cream cheese, an assortment of cheeses, jams and butter, plus grapes, apricots, cantaloupe and kiwi. It was almost too pretty to dig into.
Every bite was fresh and flavorful, and the service was warm and attentive. I couldn't resist taking an almond croissant home, crafted by their in-house French baker.
04 | Reserve Your Split-Based Tours
Don’t miss out — stop by a local travel agency and book a few excursions. Split is the heart of Dalmatia, making it an ideal base for combining ancient history with unforgettable island and nature trips.
Most popular tours from Split:
Blue Cave & 5-Island Speedboat | A full day of fun and exploration that visits the Blue Cave on Biševo, the islands of Vis and Hvar, the Blue Lagoon and Stiniva Cove. Typical price: 600–750 HRK ($80–100 USD).
Blue Lagoon & 3-Island Catamaran | Relax on a half-day or full-day cruise with food, drinks and long swimming stops in the crystal-clear waters of the Blue Lagoon. Typical price: half-day 250–350 HRK ($33–47 USD); full-day 400–550 HRK ($53–73 USD).
Krka National Park | An easy trip of about an hour to the magnificent Skradinski Buk waterfalls, often packaged with a boat ride, swimming time and local wine tasting. Typical price: 350–500 HRK ($47–67 USD).
Guided Diocletian’s Palace Tours | The best way to understand the city’s 1,700-year history — usually covering the Roman substructures, the Peristyle and the Temple of Jupiter. Typical price: 120–220 HRK ($16–30 USD).
Cetina Canyon Adventure | For an adrenaline rush — white-water rafting or zip-lining with views of the scenic Cetina River. Typical price: 450–650 HRK ($60–87 USD).
Prices vary depending on tour length, included meals and transportation to departure points; book early in the season to secure a spot and better deals.
Tip | If you’re planning tours from Split, check Pelican Tours Split across from Ćiri Biri Bela — straightforward, reliable and full of local recommendations. You might also turn travel into part of the adventure: hop on a tour to Plitviče Lakes National Park that handles your transport, take your luggage along and settle into a cozy nearby stay to savor the region at leisure.
05 | Stroll Seaside & Enter Diocletian's Cellars
The shimmering waters of the Adriatic Sea meet Split in a soft and genuine way. Yachts and larger boats are docked on the waters, far enough away to not make much of a presence. The waters are calm and smooth and move alongside a gorgeous promenade called the Riva.
The Riva is Split’s gorgeous palm lined esplanade that began to take shape two centuries ago when the French (and Napolean) ruled these parts through Marshal Marmont, a French general and nobleman. The Riva sets the stage for Split, the perfect spot for morning coffee or an evening stroll along the waterfront. It’s also home to the south facade of Diocletian’s Palace with an entrance opening up directly into its underground cellars.
The city of Split was founded as the Greek colony of Aspálathos during the 2nd or 3rd century BCE, while in 305 it became home to the Roman emperor, Diocletian. Diocletian worked hard to revive glory as ruler; his reforms brought back order to the Roman Empire as he worked to create a ruling model called Tetrarchy where four rulers each rule a portion of the Empire, stepping down after 20 years.
Though Tetrarchy failed on many accounts, Diocletian retired after his 20 year rule to his palace in Split, living another 10 years before passing of natural causes. Nearly 300 years later, the nearby city of Salona was destroyed by invasion from Eastern Europe and most of its inhabitants fled to the palace. It was then that Split was truly born. A bronze model along the Riva depicts the city as it is today, with many additions over the centuries.
Most remarkable, opposing the sea, is the southern facade of Diocletian’s Palace which was specifically designed for the Emperor’s residence on the other side. The architect hoped to create a mass connected to the outside world, incorporating an arcade full of windows that open up onto the Riva and the Adriatic Sea. At first glance, the wall may look bizarre but it projects upward with various shops and balconies built in front of it.
A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979, Diocletian’s Palace was built for Roman emperor, Diocletian, at the end of the third century AD and forms about half of old town Split. Built from local limestone and white marble, the palace is still in rare form, with most of its structure well preserved, particularly the exterior walls (other than the western wall).
Interestingly, it’s said that the emperor wished to enter his palace by ship without leaving the deck, so much of what we consider the lower level was once covered in water. Over time, the sea receded, leaving the city as it is today. And though the structure is referred to as a “palace” and intended as a retirement residence, the complex is enormous and resembles more of a fortress than anything else.
The palace had four gates, three of which remain today. The southern portion of the palace was reserved as residential space, while the central area was used for religious and ceremonial purposes and the northern, compounds for soldiers, servants and possibly slaves. The Southern Gate, or Bronze Gate, was likely meant to move goods into the palace from ships in the bay. Through this gate are the basement cellars.
The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace represent the largest surviving Roman indoor space in the world and one of the most well preserved complexes of its kind. This area is largely the reason why the historic core of Split was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its construction mixes both ancient and eastern elements.
In Roman times, the cellars function was to raise the emperor's living quarters on the floor above, as well as a storage area for the palace. As a structural copy and the largest covered space from the period, the cellars provide a pretty good idea of the spatial structure and appearance of the former imperial chambers located above.
Over the years, the cellars have been used for several purposes. In the early Middle Ages, part of them were for housing, with one of the halls dedicated to the production of oil and wine with a turnjačica, or wine press, which is still on display today. As construction of the palace continued, the basement became a waste receptacle for residents above. During the middle of the 19th century, architect Vicko Andrić began to clear out the basement, excavating and reconstructing the space to its present form. The eastern portion of the cellars only opened to the public relatively recently in May 1995.
Today, the cellars are active and full of life. The space is used for a myriad of social and cultural activities and events like art exhibits, theater performances and gastronomic and oenological (science and study of wine and wine making) events. But on most days, the cellars are used by vendors to sell goods and as a gallery space.
Stepping underground into this space gives a feeling of grandeur and greatness. Though dimly lit and damp, arched stone ceilings tower high above with massive square columns rising to meet them. The air is cool and moist but vendors tucked between columns displaying handcrafted goods for sale, don’t seem to mind.
The central hall, or main corridor, stretches from the Riva to a set of stone steps that rise into the main courtyard of the palace and the Peristyle; a row of columns surrounding an interior space.
06 | Praise Central Square of Diocletian's Palace
The inner courtyard of Diocletian’s Palace is surrounded by a Roman peristyle with a columned gallery. Bookended by a prothyon (porch or vestibule in front of a home) where Diocletian's throne once stood, the nearby portal leads directly into the emperor’s chambers. The southern portion of the private imperial chambers included an unpreserved cryptoporticus, a large arcaded corridor overlooking the sea, and baths whose remains have been preserved.
Emperor Diocletian, celebrated as the living son of Jupiter, would appear under the arch of the central prothyon as subjects approached him in a ceremonial fashion, kneeling and kissing the folds of his crimson cloak, or falling and laying their whole bodies on the ground in worship.
After the death of Diocletian, the city was abandoned for the most part. The palace remained an imperial possession of the Roman court, offering shelter to the expelled members of the Emperor’s family. Diocletians remains were housed in the mausoleum built within the palace. It was only in the 7th century that new construction began to unfold. During which time, Italians called the city Spalato and later, the Slavic Croatians who replaced them, renamed the city to Split.
Likely around this time, Diocletian’s mausoleum was rebuilt into a Christian church with a five-tiered bell tower, the Romanesque bell tower of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius. Over time, some level of antiquities were removed or destroyed, even the sarcophagus of Diocletian himself disappeared from the mausoleum; its fate still unknown.
After taking in the totality of the Peristyle, I wandered further back into the space, eyes wide open. In the rear, ruins continued to spread on as far as I could see, arcades pushing up into the blue sky. Vendors had paintings on display, while visitors looked on. Others posed for photos in the main courtyard or sat on purple cushions to people watch.
The floor plan for the palace is an irregular rectangle with 16 octagonal towers projecting from the northern, eastern and western facades. On each facade, a monumental gate in the middle of each wall leads to an enclosed courtyard. To the east, I located the Silver Gate, or Porta Orientalis. Originally a secondary gate, it faces toward the Roman town of Epetia.
Around the 6th century, a small church was built and dedicated to St. Apolinar above the East Gate, likely because of the influx of refugees from remote lands. Similar churches were built over the other gates: Golden Gate (North Gate), Iron Gate (West Gate) and Bronze Gate (South Gate).
From the central square there are a handful of noteworthy sites to visit, some of which I didn’t realize at the time, like the Treasury and Baptistry. Additionally, visitors can climb up to the top of the vestibule for incredible views of the city and fewer crowds.
The Treasury is a museum holding artifacts dating from the original palace to the 18th century, most of which consist of religious artifacts.
The Baptistry, or Temple of Jupiter, is a temple dedicated to the ancient Roman god Jupiter. Built between 295 and 305, it’s located in the western part of Diocletian’s Palace down a narrow pathway from the Peristyle.
One of 12 black sphinxes brought from Egypt by Emperor Diocletian lies at the entrance, marking what is now a Christian chapel. The site was likely turned into a baptistry in the 6th century, the same time when the crypt dedicated to St. Thomas was built.
Though visiting the central courtyard is free of charge, many of the other sites require a ticket. Pricing is currently as follows:
Blue ticket for €7 euro includes 3 sites: Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery
Green ticket for €10 euro includes 3 sites: Cathedral, Bell Tower, Treasury
Red ticket for €8 euro includes 4 sites: Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery, Treasury
Purple ticket €11 euro includes 5 sites: Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery, Treasury, Bell Tower
07 | Show Reverence at Cathedral of Saint Domnius
The Cathedral of Saint Domnius, known locally as the Sveti Dujam or Sveti Duje,is the Catholic cathedral in Split. The cathedral is the seat of the Archdiocese of Split-Makarska, with an Imperial Roman mausoleum and bell tower forming a church complex. The church is strictly dedicated to the Virgin Mary, while the bell tower to Saint Dominius.
With access to the east of the Peristyle, the Cathedral is composed of three sections from different ages. The central portion is Emperor Diocletian’s mausoleum, dating to the end of the 3rd century. Built in a similar fashion as the rest of the palace, the mausoleum was built with local white limestone and marble. In the 17th century, a choir was added to the eastern side of the mausoleum, tearing down its eastern wall to combine the two chambers. And later, a Romanesque bell tower was erected in 1100 AD.
Upon entering the cathedral, everything fell silent in a single moment. A beautifully shaped and highlighted dome rose high above, light cascading off each surface in the dimly lit space. Intricate details shown throughout, particularly on the plaster columns and stunning reliefs.
My particular interest were the gorgeously carved wooden doors, which almost resembled a deep toned brass. One of the best examples of Romanesque sculpture in Croatia, the massive wooden doors were made by the medieval Croatin sculptor and painter, Andrija Buvina, around 1214. The two doors each contain 14 scenes from the life of Jesus Christ separated by richly ornate patterns.
On the first floor of the sacristy, a treasury contains relics of Saint Dominus brought to the cathedral after his death.
Various other treasures include a number of well known sacred texts from as early as the 6th century, as well as art pieces such as the Romanesque The Madonna and Child panel painting from the 13th century, chalices and shrines made by goldsmiths from the 13th to the 19th centuries and various robes from the 14th to the 19th centuries.
Originally, the site was intended as a mausoleum for Emperor Diocletian, becoming his grave after death but that’s not how things ended up. During his rule, Diocletian expelled Christians hiding on nearby islands, killing some and persecuting others. Centuries later, after his death, Christians returned to Split and removed Diocletian’s sarcophagus from the mausoleum. They placed in the bones of martyr and bishop of Salona, Saint Domnius, which are still in the church today. The building became a Cathedral soon after.
The cathedral was dedicated at the turn of the 7th century AD and is regarded as the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world that remains in use in its original structure, without massive renovation at a later date, though the bell tower dates from the 12th century.
The structure itself, built in AD 305 as it was originally intended as the Mausoleum of Diocletian, is the second oldest structure used by any Christian Cathedral.
08 | Ascend Saint Domnius Bell Tower
Standing 187 feet tall, the Saint Domnius Bell Tower began construction around 1100 AD and some say, lasted over 300 years. It was built primarily in Romanesque style but due to the length of its construction, other styles are noticeable. The bell tower was completely reconstructed and somewhat altered in 1908, removing many of the original Romanesque sculptures.
Climbing the steep steps of the bell tower was mostly done in dim light. Sunlight lit the stairs, only passing through small and rare arched windows placed sporadically. As each passing window arrived, so did better views of the city below.
Once high enough, it was possible to see over the terra cotta tiled roofs to the sea where large boats and cruise ships were anchored. Sunlight shimmered across the smooth waters. Trails like those left by snails crawled across the waters surface; clues from the past.
Looking down into the streets of Split, I was able to see just how dense the city was. Narrow streets carved between tall white buildings with tile rooftops like a meandering river.
I was also enchanted with the mechanics inside the bell tower. Presumably meant to assist with ringing the bell, there were a number of pulley systems caged inside the tower.
The five-tiered bell tower is particularly popular with tourists looking for unforgettable panoramic views of Split and the surrounding islands so move slowly and use caution, holding on to the rail when possible.
The climb down was much easier than expected, though, the stairs are narrow and incredibly steep. Visitors need to shift to the side as others pass by but the climb was absolutely worth the effort.
Once I arrived back on stable ground, I took a few moments to rest before continuing.
09 | Witness A Cappella Singing in the Vestibule
Continuing to wander through the narrow corridors, I discovered a boutique selling local artwork and other unique handcrafts. I picked up a bar of locally handmade soap and a metal campers mug with ‘Split’ painted on the front.
Eventually, I came upon the Vestibule (Vestíbulo), or Atrium or Rotunda, in the first section of the Imperial corridor of Diocletian’s Palace leading to the Peristyle. Once the formal entrance to the Imperial apartments, the Vestibule has a square exterior and a circular interior. To the southeast of the vestibule is the medieval quarter, with the oldest building, an early Romanesque house from the 10th century. Oppositely, lies the church of Saint Andrija, now part of teh Ethnographic museum.
Built alongside the rest of the original ancient palace at the beginning of the 4th century, this space was constructed as a grand meeting hall for special occasions. The circular hall was once topped with a dome of colorful shiny mosaic tiles reaching 55 feet high and 40 feet in diameter. The entrance was secured with a large door covered in relief patterns and there were four semicircular niches with statues of unknown deities.
With the dome now gone, the sunlight makes the vVstibule of Diocletian’s Palace shine bright once more. The contrast of bright blue sky against the white stone is palpable and the scale of the Vestibule looks and feels as monumental as ever. With incredible acoustics, these days the space is used for more informal performances by klapa singing groups. Klapa singing is a multipart singing tradition of the southern Croatian regions of Dalmatia done in a cappella, or singing without instrumental accompaniment.
Typically performing popular folk songs during the summer months, these a cappella groups take full advantage of the acoustics in the Rotunda. Singers stand in a semicircle and perform to gathering crowds who donate what they see fit. The music is now considered part of the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
As a wonderful example of blending traditions in both ancient and modern culture, I was thrilled to catch one of these magical performances during my stay in Split.
The residential part of the palace is then entered through the Vestibule.
10 | Explore Diocletian's Living Quarters
Once through the Vestibule, the Emperor’s apartment began to unfold. The area forms a block along the southern edge of the palace at the seafront, with an exterior square, circular floor plan and dome. The Emperor’s apartment stretches 130 feet deep along the entire south facade. Today, the upper floor is only partly preserved but the ground level is almost completely preserved.
On the west side of the upper floor are the remains of a dome hall and two halls with niches. On the east, are parts of an octagonal dining room with three halls in a cross floor plan; the wall of the Western Cross Hall preserved at full height.
Diocletian’s apartment was also unified by a long room along the southern facade with 42 windows and three balconies that open to views of the sea. As of late, two baths were found north of the Emperor’s apartment.
It was also possible to catch mouth watering views of the bell tower from a new vantage point.
As I wandered through the space, I particularly enjoyed imaging the space coming to life, with people roaming around, green gardens blooming and animals like chickens clucking about.
11 | Grab a Bite at Fig Split — If You Dare
In the late afternoon, after many hours of exploring, I sat at Fig Split for lunch. Happy to be off my exhausted feet, I sat in their sun soaked courtyard and ordered up a storm. With a fresh and creative take on local ingredients, Fig Split offered some interesting dishes. To drink, I chose a virgin cherry spritz, and for my meal, roasted veggies with sweet potatoes, leeks, fennel, carrots and beets served on house made white bean hummus with lemon and lamb’s lettuce.
As if that wasn’t enough, I chose the chimichurri potatoes, smashed and fried red potatoes served with vegan chimichurri mayo.
Overall, my meal was pretty tasty but service wasn’t as great. Sadly, I also got incredibly sick about an hour later; it was food poisoning. Hopefully, it was a fluke but be careful at this spot.
Tip / Eat at Fig Split at your own risk. I was given food poisoning.
With a nasty case of food poisoning, I had to skip out on my Blue Caves tour the next day but I was able to talk the gentleman into letting me join the following day. Whew! After my sun drenched and windblown day island hopping, I packed up my suitcases and met my group and tour guide down at the taxi station for a day tour to Plitviče Lakes National Park in Central Croatia. Planning to stay up at the lakes instead of catching the bus back to Split, I took along all my belongings.
