Montenegro’s Lovćen Mausoleum, Royal Old Capital & Skadar Lake
Journey through Montenegro's Njegoš Mausoleum perched atop windswept Lovćen, the royal old capital of Cetinje & the tranquil, bird-filled waters of Skadar Lake — where history, culture & wild beauty meet.
Montenegro sits at the southern edge of the Dinaric Alps, a tiny country with big scenery: craggy mountains, glassy glacial lakes and slim ribbon-like beaches lining the Adriatic. It’s a treasure trove of heritage — ranked seventh for protected areas and sprinkled with UNESCO delights, most famously the medieval village of Kotor cradled by the storybook Bay of Kotor.
Beyond the coast, lies Europe’s deepest canyon, the Tara River Canyon, carved through the wild heart of Durmitor National Park. Yet, Montenegro isn’t only about dramatic landscapes; its history and culture stretch back to the 10th century, lending every stone and alleyway a sense of age and meaning.
A newer nation in political terms — independent since 2006 — this understated gem nonetheless buzzes with warm hospitality, fresh seafood and an irresistible, lively spirit that stays with you long after you leave.
Greater Montenegro brims with history and scenery that seem spun from a storybook.
Perched on the slopes of Lovćen — the mountain that gave Montenegro its old name, Crna Gora, or “Black Mountain” when cloaked in deep forest — sits the Mausoleum of Njegoš. The final resting place of Petar II Petrović-Njegoš, Montenegro’s beloved prince-bishop, poet and philosopher, the mausoleum honors a figure whose verse and ideas are cornerstones of Montenegrin and Serbian letters. From its lofty perch, the site feels both grand and intimate, like a secret kept by the peaks.
Cetinje, the Royal Old Capital, feels almost paused in time. Once the political heart until 1945, its palaces, fortified monasteries and the former homes of the prince-bishops now lend the town a quiet dignity — an elegant, slightly melancholy place that invites slow wandering and discovery.
Skadar Lake — known variously as Lake Scutari, Lake Shkodër or Lake Shkodra — spills across the border between Albania and Montenegro. As the largest lake in Southern Europe, its marshes, islands and bird-filled reeds offer a wild, watery contrast to the region’s rugged mountains, completing Montenegro’s portrait of mythic landscapes and gentle history.
Landing in Dubrovnik, the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” I gave myself two weeks to wander through Croatia and Montenegro.
A lucky booking sent me on a day trip from Dubrovnik to Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina — a small, luminous jewel of the Balkans.
From Dubrovnik, I hopped a ferry north to Split, a Dalmatian seaside city where Roman ruins spill into sunlit harbors. I even climbed aboard a speedboat to weave through the islands and slip into secret caves.
Next, I headed inland to the emerald cascades of Plitviče Lakes National Park.
Crossing out of Croatia through Zagreb, I flew to Podgorica and continued to Kotor, Montenegro’s medieval coastal gem. From there, I took day trips to the north for the wild splendor of Durmitor National Park, the depths of Tara Canyon and the serene Ostrog Monastery, then explored Lovćen’s mausoleum, the royal old capital and the vast wetlands of Skadar Lake.
What’s Inside | Roadmap
Book Your Tour | Book here — 360 Monte — or stop by the storefront in Kotor
Bird’s‑Eye View | Take in Kotor Bay from above
Bite & Sip | Taste Kod Pera na Bukovicu’s local delights
Climb | Ascend Mount Lovćen for a spellbinding visit to Njegoš’s Mausoleum
Stroll | Wander Montenegro’s little royal capital of Cetinje; don’t miss the relics of Cetinje Monastery including Saint John the Baptist's Right Hand & a Particle of the Holy Cross
Float | Drift above the glassy calm of Skadar Lake
Greater Montenegro’s Charming Experiences You Can't Miss
Discover Montenegro’s dramatic coastline, from the misty heights of Lovćen’s Njegoš Mausoleum and the timeless streets of Cetinje, the Royal Old Capital, to the serene wetlands and bird-filled channels of Skadar Lake — all in one unforgettable day of history, culture and wild beauty.
Take In Kotor Bay From Above
The day began in Kotor, soft and slow. I booked a day trip with 360 Monte to explore Greater Montenegro, then slipped into Mon Bistro Cafétéria for a latte and a flaky pastry — one last indulgence before the road. Still a little sleepy, I wandered to the tour agency at the edge of Kotor Old Town and fell into the easy rhythm of the group.
We piled into a white passenger van and rolled away from the bay, winding up toward Njeguši Village for a light morning snack. The first pause came at the Kotor Serpentine — the famous Ladder of Kotor — where low clouds hugged the fjord-like curves of Kotor Bay. The mist made everything softer, perfect for dreamy photos and the kind of quiet that feels like a shared whisper among strangers on a morning drive.
The Ladder of Kotor snakes down from the Cetinje–Kotor panoramic road, threading its way from the pastoral fields at the foot of Lovćen Mountain to the shimmering embrace of Kotor Bay. Below, the town of Kotor — once a bustling hub of traders and sailors — sits tucked into one of Montenegro’s most breathtaking harbors, where history and sea-salted air meet at every turn.
Twisting through history, the road follows an ancient caravan trail that traces back to Roman times. In the 1880s, intrepid wagons shaped a new route from the mountainside and in 1897 the Austrians finished the road we drive today. The most legendary portion — the Kotor Serpentine — unfolds over five breathtaking miles and boasts 16 dramatic hairpin turns. Beginning at about 450 feet, the switchbacks climb nearly 1,400 feet to reach a dizzying 2,890-foot summit, offering one of those slow, pulse-quickening ascents where every bend reveals a new, jaw-dropping view.
Half in shadow and draped in a whisper of fog, Kotor Bay looked like a scene from a film at dawn. From our lofty vantage point, the towns below felt small and intimate, their roofs and alleys folded into the landscape. We paused often, climbing higher and letting each new viewpoint settle in — then moving on to the next. Gradually, the mist burned away and the sky deepened to a clear, vivid blue, opening the whole bay before us. Quiet and removed, it was one of those perfect, contemplative ways to take in the Bay of Kotor.
Taste Kod Pera na Bukovicu’s Local Delights
Restaurant Kod Pera na Bukovicu holds a story in every beam and plate. Opened in 1881, it’s Montenegro’s oldest tavern of its kind — a place where recipes and hospitality have been handed down like treasured heirlooms. The Milošević family, who still own and run the place, named it for its founder, Pero Milošević, whose warmth and skill helped the tavern earn a reputation that reached far beyond the Balkans.
Generations have kept the hearth alive: when Pero retired his daughter-in-law took the reins, then her son Branislav and then his sons after him. Today, the servers, cooks and hosts are family members too, so you arrive as a guest and are welcomed like an old friend. Sampling special treats here feels less like a meal and more like joining a family story that’s been simmering for nearly a century and a half.
The tavern perches in Njeguši, tucked along the scenic road that winds from Kotor up toward Cetinje. The route climbs and dips, trading coastal panoramas for a quiet mountain hush and the tavern feels like a secret revealed only to those who take the turn. Step inside and you’re met with low light and timber worn smooth by years of hands and stories — a place that has resisted the hurry of time.
At the heart of the place is an old drying room, where meat is cured the traditional way. You can tour the space, watch centuries-old techniques at work and learn how salt, smoke and patience transform simple cuts into something storied. After the tour, comes a tiny ritual: a shot of rakija. This homemade grape brandy (often called Medovina when honey is involved) is usually distilled from plums, grapes, apricots, pears, cherries or raspberries — though you might encounter rarer versions with peaches, figs or quince. Before it’s bottled, rakija is sometimes married with honey, sour cherries, walnuts or herbs, and it can pack a serious punch, climbing toward 80 proof.
We were fortunate to try the tour ourselves, following our guide into the dim, cool drying room where we readied our shots with a mix of curiosity and mischief. Montenegro’s rakija — kin to other Balkan firewaters — feels less like a drink and more like a piece of national lore. Made from many fruits, it’s the plum rakija, šljivovica, that people here adore most; every sip tastes of orchards, tradition and a little bit of spirited pride.
A cheerful clink, a daring little shot — and then that delighted, surprised smile we all tried to hide. The room around us faded into shadow; only a narrow ribbon of light slipped through the doorway, cutting a thin path across the floor.
The tavern also tempts you with classic Njegu flavors: its celebrated air-dried ham, Njeguški pršut — a melt-in-your-mouth cousin of prosciutto — piled alongside creamy local cheeses, smoky sausages, briny olives, sun-ripened tomatoes and rustic loaves of bread. Each bite feels like a small, fragrant story from the mountains and sea that surround this place.
Running on fumes, I savored every single bite — partly because I was ravenous, partly because each morsel felt like a link to the past, the same flavors people have enjoyed here for over a century. For a cheerful boost, I ordered a café con leche; it arrived in a tiny cup topped with a cloud of froth, impossibly comforting.
Kod Pera na Bukovicu was truly a delightful surprise — one of those places that makes you wish time could slow down. If we'd had even a little more of it, we would have lingered over coffee, sampled every sweet (or savory) on the counter and let the warm, welcoming atmosphere settle in a bit longer.
Ascend Mount Lovćen for a Spellbinding Visit to Njegoš’s Mausoleum
After making friends with the local pup and finishing up our tasty snacks at Kod Pera na Bukovicu tavern, our group lead by Milo, was on its way. Our next stop would be Mount Lovćen, a mountain and national park in southwestern Montenegro known for being home to Petar Petrović Njegoš's Mausoleum.
After a quick 10 minute drive, we parked near the entrance and unloaded onto a narrow street. Even there, the views were already breathtaking. The horizon was layered with silhouettes of mountain peaks, one after another in varying shades of blue, brown and black. We began to climb, one steep step at a time. Turning back around, I could see the circular lookout point and cafe.
Up ahead, was a large stone wall carved into the mountainside with an arched doorway. We’d be walking right through the mountain itself. Our guide was speedy, so we all did our best to hurry along and not get scolded.
Once inside the tunnel, it was a glorious white plaster with light and shadow playing on its walls and arched ceiling. It was quiet and peaceful. The national park itself covers the central and highest part of the mountain’s peak, reaching approximately 24 square miles. Becoming a national park in 1952, it’s home to and protects a significant cultural, historical and architectural history of Montenegro. The most important monument of Lovćen National Park is of course, Petar Petrović Njegoš's Mausoleum. Constructed in 1971, the location of his burial place and mausoleum lies at the summit of Mount Lovćen and were chosen by Njegoš himself.
Petar II Petrović-Njegoš, commonly referred to as Njegoš, was a prince by inheritance, Bishop of Montenegro in the first half of the 19th century, admired poet and philosopher whose works are widely considered some of the most important in Montenegrin and Serbian literature. Prior to his death, Njegoš requested to be buried atop Mount Lovćen in a chapel dedicated to his predecessor, Petar I Petrović-Njegoš, designing the chapel himself and overseeing its construction in 1845.
One of Njegoš’s most admired writings, The Mountain Wreath, is a modern epic written in verse as a play. Considered a masterpiece, he goes on to describe the struggle for freedom, justice and dignity:
“Yes, a hero’s life is always haunted by a tragic ending.
It was destiny that your head had to pay the price for its wreath!”
Following the death of Njegoš in October 1851, he was laid to rest at the Cetinje Monastery, with his remains transferred to the mountain in 1855. He remained there until 1916 when during World War I, Montenegro was occupied by Austria-Hungary and the Hapsburg occupiers chose to erect a monument to Austrian Emperor on the same peak. Demanding that the remains of Njegoš be moved back to his hometown of Cetinje, Montenegrins had little choice and removed his remains under the supervision of Serbian Orthodox clergy as to avoid the accusation of desecration.
After emerging from the tunnel and its 461 steps, visitors find themselves at the peak of the mountain on a narrow paved path leading into the mausoleum. At the entrance, two immense granite giantesses (imaginary, gigantic women) guard the tomb of Montenegro's greatest hero. It’s said that on the righthand side stands his mother, and the left, his daughter. There is also a well nearby to collect rainwater.
By the end of the war, Njegoš’s chapel was heavily damaged. For years, local authorities debated with the Yugoslav government to find a solution on where and how to place the remains of Njegoš. Due to a lack of funds, plans for a mausoleum were tossed out and the original church was reconstructed. In 1925, during a large ceremony sponsored and attended by Yugoslavia’s King Alexander and Queen Maria, the chapel was rededicated and Njegoš’s remains were reburied.
Njegoš was said to be a smart man, high preist and ruler of the country during the Ottoman reign. He did much for the people, engaging in some of Montenegro’s first diplomatic relationships and opening schools for children. Regarding the mood during his dedication and evidence of how much the people of Montenegro valued Njegoš:
“The tone of the event, which was described extensively in the Yugoslav press, bordered on a piety more appropriate for the treatment of a saint than a writer.”
By the end of World War II, Yugoslavia came under communist rule and in 1952 their authorities replaced Njegoš’s chapel with a secular mausoleum, potentially in an attempt to de-Serbanize Njegoš and eliminate any trace of the chapel’s Byzantine appearance. Ultimately, in the late 1960’s the chapel was demolished and a mausoleum was built by 1971. The remains of Njegoš were moved back to Mount Lovćen a few years later and the mausoleum was officially inaugurated that year.
Inside the mausoleum, a massive black stone likeness of Njegoš with an eagle on his back, offering protection, stands tall. And gold donated by foreign governments was laid on the walls and ceilings to shine brightly.
The tomb of Njegoš sits plainly inside amongst the shadows, a heavy grey stone lid with carvings sits atop its base. Interestingly, Njegoš and his burial location have been mentioned in a popular Montenegrin folk songs which, though revised, has been the national anthem of Montenegro since 2004.
Outside, high atop the mountain, a gorgeous viewpoint called a guvno offers views of the surrounding landscape. Though normally called a threshing floor, this guvno is a round stone platform at the edge of the mountaintop used as a lookout point. It’s also a place for community to gather and a symbol of hope for peace and unity.
At the viewpoint and along the skinny pathway, the winds picked up; I was terribly worried one of us might get blown right off the mountain, especially as others passed by. After taking in the views, our group made its way across the path, through the tunnel and back down the steps into the cafe and gift shop at the bottom of the hill.
Worried I might spoil our lunch, I decided not to grab a snack I’d later regret.
Wander Montenegro’s Little Royal Capital of Cetinje
Cetinje is the former royal capital of Montenegro and the location of several national institutions such as the official residence of the president of Montenegro. The city was built in a valley protected by the surrounding landscape and its name is derived from the local river, the Cetina or Cetinja. From the years 1878 to 1918, Cetinje was the capital of independent Montenegro, along with its cultural center. In 1918 the city passed to Yugoslavia, with Cetinje succeeding as the capital by Titograd, now Podgorica.
Once arriving in Cetinje, our first stop was the small but mighty, Court Church. Sadly, it was not open on the day of our visit and we were only able to view the church from the exterior. A Serbian Orthodox church located in the Ćipur neighborhood of Cetinje, the church is dedicated to the Birth of the Most Holy Mother of God.
It was built by King Nikola I of Montenegro in 1890 on the site of the previous 15th century Monastery of Crnojevći erected by Ivan Crnojević, dedicated to the Mother of God. The original monastery built in 1482 burned down three times leaving remains in the location where the new church is built.
Remains of Ivan Crnojević, King Nikola, Queen Milena and Montenegrin princess Ksenija and Vjera are entombed within the church. It was declared a cultural heritage monument in 1961 and became a part of the History Museu of Montenegro in 2012.
Together with the archeological remains of the monastery complex of the Crnojević noble family, it’s a World Heritage Site aspirant, and a very charming one at that.
Just across the way is Cetinje Monastery, a white stone Christian Orthodox monastery built in 1704 on medieval ruins. Containing sacred relics, the monastery is a center of cultural and historical importance. Founded in 1484 by Prince Ivan Crnojević of Zeta, it was designated a cathedral monastery of the Eparchy of Zeta, equivalent to a diocese in the Latin Church. During the Morean War, it was left in ruins and rebuilt between 1701 and 1704.
There are several priceless relics in the monastery today. Possibly the most well known is the right hand of John the Baptist, with which he baptized Jesus. As the story goes, Luke the Evangelist went to the city of Sebastia, the location of John’s burial site, and took the right hand of John the Baptist, and brought it to his home city of Antioch where he performed miracles. However, today, both the Cetinje Monastery and the Catholic Cathedral of Siena in Italy claim to have this invaluable relic.
The remains of Saint Peter of Cetinje, particles of the True Cross, the real cross that Jesus of Nazareth was crucified on according to Christian tradition, the painting of the Philermos Mother of God and the royal crown of Serbian king Stephen Uroš III Dečanski, among others, also lie inside the Cetinje Monastery.
Entering the monastery felt very significant, almost heavy. Inside, monks quietly moved about as we explored each space and the relics within. I got a feeling that guests were more of an inconvenience than a happy occurrence. A small gift shop sold offerings and there were a few rooms to explore. Photos were not allowed.
From there, our group strolled through town, observing a calm fall day. Our guide pointed out noteworthy buildings as we passed and a few cafes offered outdoor seating. About an hour southeast was our next stop, Skadar Lake.
Drift Above the Glassy Calm of Skadar Lake
Lake Skadar, also called Lake Scutari, Lake Shkodër and Lake Shkodra, is a vast freshwater lake straddling the borders of Montenegro and Albania. It’s the largest lake in Southern Europe, surrounded by dramatic karst mountains, those associated with soluble rock types such as limestone, marble and gypsum. Its black mirrored waters, wetlands and rocky shores play host to diverse wildlife, traditional fishing villages, island monasteries and welcoming beaches.
Home to some of the most recognized panoramic views in a country and known for its wild, natural beauty, Lake Skadar has been a protected National Park since 1983 and added to the World’s List of Wetlands of International Importance in 1996. Many Montenegrins consider the lake and surrounding area as their country’s heart and soul. After all, this land is where the former royal family used to summer, where Turkish invaders hoped to conquer and also where some of the best organic food and wine are produced.
With a proud history and as part of the ancient Slav kingdom of Zeta, the region became a battleground for five centuries after the Turks invaded during the 13th century. As the Ottoman Empire collapsed, Turks were banned and the borders of an independent Montenegro were realized. The town of Skadar, once the capital of Zeta, joined with Albania while many Albanian villages on the southern shores merged with Montenegro, keeping much of their identity over the years. As the Turks conquered the southern shores, the northern wetlands offered fortifications for the Montenegrins. Continuing to fight, they were eventually forced to move their capital to Cetinje in 1482.
Millions of years ago, Lake Skadar met the sea, as proven by the seashell fossils still found in the area. Over time, plates moved, volcanoes erupted and sea levels abated, leaving the Skadar plain to emerge between the limestone mountains of the Dinaric Alps.
Our stop landed us in a tiny town along Skadar Lake called Rijeka Crnojevica. Arriving late in the afternoon, we sat down for lunch at a tiny cafe along the river. Our lunch options were either chicken or fish, of which, I opted for the local fish. We were also served a tasty soup and dessert.
Just as the sun began to tuck behind the mountains and a chill set about the air, we joined our captain on a small pontoon boat and headed out onto the lake for a ride. A beautiful stone bridge spread across the river; we made our way in that direction.
Hoping to warm us up, various bottles of liquor, wine and rakija, were offered as we began to move on the still black water. I chose the red wine and filled up my small plastic cup to enjoy.
Eventually, we crossed under the bridge and moved out onto the larger open lake.
Legend has it that a young bride, thrilled by her husband’s anticipated return, forgot to turn off a fountain tap overnight, creating the lake’s sweet waters. The true story, though, is just as amazing. In 1858, a violent thunderstorm sent Drina River into madness, creating such a build up at the mouth of Bojana River, that its path altered, flooding an existing pool and forming the largest lake in the Balkans.
Today, the lake is fed by Morača River and several underwater springs, reaching across 143 square miles during the summer and an incredible 205 square miles in the winter. It stretches an unbelievable 27 miles in length, six miles wide and averages 26 feet deep, though its deepest point is below sea level at a depth of nearly 200 feet.
Perhaps I would’ve been a bit more scared if I knew it’s true depth at the time. Our trip around the lake lasted about an hour and wove in and out of several different areas, all of which offered a new layer to the landscape. The fall colors of the trees were gorgeous in the setting sunlight and I enjoyed every minute of the ride, other than freezing my tail off. No one on the boat was brave enough for a dip in the cool waters.
The lakes waters are home to over 30 species of freshwater fish including trout, saran and the local claim to fame, carp, all of which can be caught, cooked and eaten right out of the water or found at local restaurants as Catch of the Day. Additionally, more than 260 species of birds call the lake home, including the rare Dalmatian Pelican and Pygmy Cormorant, along with storks, herons, egrets and ibises that perch on reeds while falcons and eagles scour the rocky shores for a snack. The surrounding mountains are also home to tortoises, lizards, amphibians and snakes, not to mention the occasional wild boar or wolf during winter.
With the ideal climate between the mountains and the sea, conditions are ideal for all kinds of organically produced fare. Herbs like mint, wild sage and rosemary sprinkle the ground, while fruits, nuts and veggies like plums, figs, peppers, cherries, mandarines and pomegranates are grown in the valleys. Specialties like locally produced goat cheese, succulent honey, homemade rakija and various flavors of home-cured pršut (smoked ham) are also the norm.
As the lake began to grow dark, our captain returned to shore. Exhausted from a long day, we loaded into the van and drove the hour and a half back to Kotor.
