Nantes, France: Not So Hidden Hidden Gems & Things to Do
Discover the best things to do in Nantes, France with this travel guide that leads you through whimsical island machines, sunlit riverfronts, cozy cafés brimming with Breton charm & not-so-hidden hidden gems worth exploring.
Updated | July 2026
Why Nantes Should Be on Your France Bucket List: Charming Streets, Creative Spirit & Hidden Delights
France — officially the French Republic — stretches across much of western Europe and reaches far beyond, with overseas regions dotting the Americas and the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans. Its footprint is as varied as its landscapes. One of the world’s oldest nations, France has long been at the heart of European culture, from the fervor of the Revolution to the bright ideas of the Enlightenment.
Today, it charms visitors with everything from medieval towns and sun-drenched Mediterranean beaches to snow-capped alpine villages. A pilgrimage site for lovers of fine food and wine, France is equally celebrated for its art, couture, entertainment and the restless curiosity that fuels philosophy and science.
Nantes — named for the Namnètes, the Gallic tribe that once made it their capital — wears its layered past with easy charm. The city sits gracefully on the Loire River in Upper Brittany, a lively corner of western France and the country’s sixth-largest city. And it was one of the most charming stops on my two-week European adventure.
A bustling port and industrial hub through the ages, Nantes thrived under Roman trade and later weathered Norman occupation from 834 to 936. Today, the city mixes history and whimsy: wander through the restored medieval Château des Ducs de Bretagne, stroll the lively Place du Bouffay in Old Nantes or lose yourself in the elegant Passage Pommeraye shopping arcade.
Most of all, Nantes delights with Les Machines de l’Île, a Jules Verne–flavored wonderland where a giant mechanical elephant and a parade of curious contraptions roam (this was my favorite). And for a perfect finish, taste the region’s Muscadet — crisp white wine made from local grapes that pairs beautifully with fresh seafood from the nearby Atlantic.
Two-Week Travel Itinerary
Twice a year I’m lucky enough to set off on an adventure — I can’t travel full time because of design work at home and sweet pup but those two weeks are proof that you can see a lot with a little planning and a lot of curiosity. Here’s my two-week European travel itinerary:
I kicked off my European adventure in London, England where centuries of history rub shoulders with cutting‑edge art. Legendary landmarks punctuate the skyline and a world of flavors — from bustling street-food markets to Michelin-starred kitchens — reveal the city’s global heartbeat.
A train ride took me into Wales with a quaint pause in Cardiff, where I wandered the atmospheric rooms of Cardiff Castle and got pleasantly lost beneath the ornate glass-and-iron vaults of the Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades. After soaking up the city’s heritage, the route continued west along the coast to the postcard-perfect seaside town of Tenby, whose pastel houses, sandy beaches and salt-sweet air felt like stepping into a foggy seaside painting.
After a stopover back in London, I touched down on the Isle of Jersey — a compact, self-governing Crown Dependency with dramatic coastal cliffs, markets overflowing with local produce and layers of military history etched into its landscapes. Though my stay was shorter than planned, the island’s quiet charm lingered.
A ferry carried me south to France, where an evening wandering the ramparts and narrow streets of Saint-Malo felt like a scene from a novel. From there, I continued to Nantes, a city pulsing with creative energy, layered history and graceful architecture that rewards slow exploration.
Finally, France’s southern Mediterranean coast called. Vibrant Nice dazzled with its kaleidoscope of color and Provençal rhythms, and a day-trip detour brought the unmistakable glamour of Monaco — the French Riviera’s famed playground — rounding out a two-week taste of Europe’s variety and charm.
What’s Inside | Roadmap
01 | Arrive in Nantes — first stop: cold homemade soba at Soba et Sarrasin
02 | Understanding the layout of Nantes — getting around & where to stay
03 | Praise the fantastical machines of Les Machines de l'Île; breakfast at Sugar Blue
04 | Midday delights in Feydeau — AKA lunch
05 | Walk among the secrets of Château des Ducs de Bretagne
06 | Stroll the lush Botanical Gardens of Jardin des Plantes
07 | Chase the magic of a traveling carnival
08 | Wander the cobblestone streets of Le Bouffay — Nantes’ old town
09 | Shop Passage Pommeraye — a shopper’s dreamy stroll
10 | How to get to Saint-Malo from Jersey; ferry with Condor Ferries or Manche Iles Express; stay the night at Quic en Groigne — dinner at Le Berbere Saint-Malo | breakfast at Bougeotte
11 | How to get to Nantes from Saint-Malo — France
Read On | Take a deeper dive into Les Machines de l'Île — from the Gallery’s stomping, steam-breathing Grand Éléphant to my favorite hidden gem, the secret greenhouse — in my upcoming post: Mechanical Dreams on the Loire: Exploring the Enchanting World of Les Machines de l'Île; uncover more gems in France with France Travel Guides
Nantes, France: A Charming Stroll Through Canals, Castles & Creative Corners
Discovering Nantes feels like wandering through a playful blend of medieval charm and cutting-edge creativity, where riverfront promenades, lively markets and whimsical public art invite leisurely exploration. Every corner reveals a story — from historic châteaux to experimental cultural spaces — making the city feel both comfortably familiar and excitingly new.
My arrival in Nantes detoured through the utterly enchanting Saint-Malo, a jewel on France’s northern shore. If your schedule allows, add it into your France itinerary — I sadly barely scratched the surface but what I saw only made me want more.
One quick note: this guide is a touch long because I wanted to keep every helpful bit. If you're pressed for time, feel free to jump straight to the sections that catch your eye. Skip to the end for travel logistics between Jersey, Saint-Malo and Nantes.
01
Touch Down in Nantes — First Stop: Cold Homemade Soba
Once you arrive at Nantes Train Station — Gare de Nantes, hop on a bus toward your stay. For me, my Airbnb was just a few stops away — I could finally rest, almost. Four flights up with no elevator, I hauled my bags inside, wandered through the cozy rooms, then sank onto a chair and let out a long, contented sigh.
Tip | After purchasing your bus ticket from the station, board the correct bus outside and tap your ticket to the machine, or risk getting in trouble (like I did). Buses only take cash or a pre-purchased card; credit cards are not accepted. For local travel, you can also use the Naolib tram and bus app for mTickets. Additionally, it’s pretty common for city workers to come aboard and verify tickets, so I’d suggest having yours in order. Luckily, public transport on weekends is often free.
My Airbnb host went above and beyond, arranging a cozy kitchen corner stocked with fresh fruit, crusty bread and mixed nuts, along with coffee, tea and a handwritten welcome note for myself and the other guests.
Eager to explore a new city and hunting for something to eat, I soon discovered that late afternoons are a culinary desert — most kitchens shuttered. Coffee or a cold beer, though? Easy as pie.
Tip | As is fairly common in France, most restaurants close their doors between 2 p.m. and 7 p.m., so don’t expect to find much available during those hours. Plan meals accordingly.
Soba et Sarrasin is a charming little soba spot where every bowl features handmade, gluten-free buckwheat noodles — paired with house-made onigiri and pillowy mochi for a perfect, comforting bite.
The owner — warm, patient and impossibly kind — guides you toward your hearts desire. I recommend the chilled soba salad crowned with creamy avocado, bright pickled carrot and ginger, jewel-toned golden beets and tangy feta, all tossed in a simple oil-and-vinegar dressing. For dessert, don't resist the red bean mochi, its surface dusted in powdered sugar — too pretty to pass up.
The noodle shop has no indoor seating, so you’ll likely need to sweet-talk the neighboring café into lending a table. Order a café crème there: an espresso softened with milk but fierce enough to slap some life back into you.
Another curious detail: the noodles arrive in glass Tupperware — a reusable, almost homey serving vessel that diners are requested to return once the meal is finished.
A charming zero-waste touch — your meal feels cozy and personal, and surprise, she trusts customers to bring the dish back.
The noodles are fantastic. After finishing the meal, return the plate and offer a quiet word of thanks to the owner for her kindness. The simple exchange — good food, gracious hospitality — captured the warm, unhurried rhythm of the neighborhood eatery and made the meal feel like a small, memorable moment in the day's explorations.
02
Understanding the Layout of Nantes — Getting Around & Where to Stay
Nantes unfolds like a compact, gently cosmopolitan storybook, where a broad river and leafy avenues organize chapters of history, creativity and local life. At its core, the city is shaped by the Loire and the smaller Erdre and Sèvre Nantaise tributaries; the Loire’s wide, calm presence divides the city into north and south banks while the Île de Nantes — an island in the middle of the Loire — acts as a playful, inventive spine linking the two. Smooth bridges, promenades and riverfront quays make the waterways central to how the city moves and feels, with each bank offering a different mood.
Nantes: The Lay of the Land
The historic heart, centered on the Place Royale and the cathedral district, is a mix of Renaissance façades, narrow streets and buzzing cafés. This is where Nantes’ medieval and mercantile past is most visible: the stone cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul anchors a network of pedestrian lanes, small boutiques and classic bakeries. Strolls here feel compact and immediate; mornings are for pastry shops and afternoons for museum visits. The atmosphere tilts toward traditional, with enough contemporary touches to feel lively without being touristy.
East of the center, the Graslin and Commerce areas radiate Parisian-style boulevards, theater culture and shopping arcades. This zone is slightly more formal and animated after dark, with theaters, brasseries and a structured street grid that makes navigation simple. Its wide squares and illuminated façades lend a theatrical quality to evening walks, and it’s an easy base for those who want a blend of culture, dining and straightforward transport links.
Across the Loire, on the Île de Nantes, industrial memory has been reimagined into creative spectacle. Former shipyards and warehouses now host giant mechanical animals, contemporary arts venues, and experimental architecture. The Machines of the Isle of Nantes — an emblematic attraction — captures the island’s imaginative spirit: a place where engineering becomes play. This area feels youthful and inventive, perfect for exploration by foot and for families or anyone intrigued by design and public art.
To the north, the commercial and residential neighborhoods along the Erdre bring a quieter, greener face to the city. Tree-lined quays, small marinas and pleasant residential streets create a calmer pace, ideal for those who want proximity to nature and relaxed cafés. The Erdre’s tributary channels lend a canal-like intimacy; boating and riverside cycling are favored pastimes here and the overall vibe is domestic and serene.
To the west and southwest, the Bouffay and Trentemoult quarters border the river with a mix of lively nightlife and bohemian charm. Bouffay, close to the cathedral and the old town, is densely packed with restaurants and bars, drawing crowds after dark and offering a spirited, convivial feel. Across the river, the fishermen’s village of Trentemoult is a low-slung, colorful enclave with narrow lanes, painted houses and sunset views — an idyllic short ferry ride from the center that feels like a miniature escape.
Beyond the inner neighborhoods, newer districts and suburban extensions emphasize green planning and contemporary living. Modern tram lines, cycle paths and parkland knit these areas to the center, so longer stays can balance quieter residential comforts with easy access to downtown cultural life.
Nantes: Where to Stay
For where to stay, choose according to tone and priorities. Stay in the historic center near the cathedral if you want compact sightseeing, cafés within arm’s reach and immediate access to museums and pedestrian streets; it’s convenient for first-time visitors who want classic Nantes.
Choose the Graslin/Commerce area for a polished, central experience with lively dining and theater options; it’s great for evening plans and straightforward transport.
The Île de Nantes is a smart pick for families, creatives and those who enjoy an art-forward atmosphere and riverside promenades — expect unique architecture and easy access to the Machines.
If you prefer a quieter, more residential feel, look north along the Erdre quays; you’ll find calmer streets and pleasant green spaces while still being a short tram ride from the center.
For romance or a more local, village-like stay, consider a short ferry hop to Trentemoult for colorful charm and waterside sunsets.
Nantes: Local Rhythms
A few things to note about moving around and local rhythms: the tram and bus network is efficient and cyclist-friendly; renting a bike or using the tram makes short trips effortless. Nantes is pleasantly walkable in its core but be prepared for cobblestones in older districts and occasional elevation near the cathedral.
The river shapes more than views — quays and promenades are popular at dusk, so evenings can feel lively along the water. Dining hours lean toward the continental rhythm — late lunches are common and dinner typically begins after 7:30 p.m. — and markets and bakeries set the daily tempo with fresh produce and bread.
03
Praise the Fantastical Machines of Les Machines de l'Île
But, as always, breakfast first and a stroll across the river — more on that later.
Sugar Blue sits like a neighborhood charm, a small café where the hum of remote workers blends with the clink of cups and the scent of freshly brewed coffee. It feels distinctly local — part of the community rhythm rather than a tourist stop — making it an inviting place to begin a day exploring the area.
The menu offers simple, thoughtfully prepared fare. One popular choice is the avocado toast served on crispy sourdough, piled with scrambled eggs, fresh avocado, shredded carrots, toasted pine nuts, sprouts and crumbled feta, accompanied by a lightly dressed side salad. Paired with a coffee or creamy chai latte, the combination makes for a satisfying morning meal — flavorful, balanced and perfectly suited to fuel a day of wandering.
Just a block away rises the Basilique Saint-Nicolas de Nantes: a 19th-century masterpiece built atop a 13th-century chapel, its soaring nave framed by intricate stonework and luminous stained-glass windows that spill color across the interior.
Nearby, Place Royale unfolds into a grand pedestrian square centered on the ornate Fontaine de la Loire, a sculpted ode to local and regional myths. Morning light gilds the stone and the plaza — stately and cinematic — quietly stirring to life as early risers, vendors and commuters begin to thread through its spaces.
From there, head south across the river toward Les Machines de l'Île, where towering mechanical creatures and imaginative installations bring Nantes’ industrial past to life. The stroll along the riverbank reveals waterfront cafés, art-filled quays and views of the city’s mix of brick warehouses and modern architecture.
Tip | Buy your Les Machines de l'Île tickets online before you go — ideally a few days in advance — to skip long lines and guarantee entry, since capacity is limited. Your booking will include a specific arrival window, so plan to arrive within that time.
Lines snake and pulse outside Les Machines de l'Île, swelling into occasional chaos when tour groups converge. Buying a ticket online ahead of time for around €9.50 is a smart move — it sidesteps the most unpredictable queues. Inside, the Gallery controls the flow with timed entry: each group is admitted for a brief window but may linger as long as they like once inside. Note that rides on the carousel and the mechanical elephant require separate tickets.
A creative cultural project of François Delaroziere and Pierre Orefice’s collective imagination, Les Machines de l'Île is a blend of invented worlds by Jules Verne (French novelist, poet and playwright), the mechanical universe of Leonardo da Vinci and the industrial history of Nantes. Set in former shipyards once used for their construction, the space is dubbed a steampunk park that takes visitors on a journey of discovery, blending engineering, art and imagination. And, it was an experience I’d been looking forward to for weeks.
On site, you'll find La Machine’s workshop and creative studio, joined by the Galerie des Machines — together they make up the imaginative world of Les Machines de l’île. Nestled between them in the old covered shipyard sits the breathtaking Carrousel des Mondes Marins, a fantastical sea-themed merry-go-round that, unfortunately, wasn’t in operation during my visit.
Stepping into the fairytale setting, visitors drift through a world where mechanics and magic blur. Clusters of people flow together like schools of fish, gathered around guides who reveal the inner secrets of intricate machines and bring them to life with dramatic demonstrations. At intervals, the engines shudder and hum, then transform into astonishing, animated beasts — clockwork birds unfurling wings, plump insects inching slowly.
Some follow the groups to catch every technical detail and origin story; others peel away from the crowd, drawn to hidden corners and quieter curiosities, exploring the exhibition’s surprises at their own pace.
Set against a post-industrial backdrop, the exhibition unfolds like a story: visitors trace the creative journey of each Machine from rough sketch to moving marvel. The designers have pinned early drawings throughout the space, while exposed gears and inner workings reveal the creatures’ mechanical hearts — like peering into a giant x-ray. The result is a captivating blend of spectacle and insight, equal parts theater and lesson.
Tip | The Machines are run by skilled machinists from the gallery and the instant a demo starts, a crowd swells around them. For a clearer view, drift to the edges and climb onto a bench or platform — elevated vantage points turn the spectacle into an unforgettable show.
Part of a "mechanical bestiary," the "sloth" is a handcrafted wooden automaton — joints clicking softly, limbs carved with careful detail — its long steel claws hooked around a polished rail. It inches along the steel pole with a deliberate, hypnotic slowness. Visitors linger to watch its patient progress and with the guidance of a machinist they can even take the controls, coaxing the creature through its measured, lifelike crawl.
The "tarantula" looms like a colossal clockwork predator — a giant mechanical spider among a menagerie of fantastical creations. It’s a highlight of the Heron Tree project, the Gallery’s next ambitious showcase, where other intricate, animated creatures share the stage with the spider.
A towering mechanical arachnid, the spider moves with eerie grace: emerging from beneath the ground, crawling and unfurling its long legs to loom high above the crowd. Spectators can sometimes climb onto its back or even take the controls, becoming part of the spectacle. The original was built for Liverpool in 2008, and a second, equally impressive version debuted in Yokohama in 2010.
From 2002 to 2019 the Heron Tree evolved from idea to near-reality, its designs, calculations and prototypes refined slowly until a flurry of final developments in recent years. Towering at an intended 115 feet and spreading 165 feet across, the installation was intended to rise in Jardin Extraordinaire — a dramatic public garden carved from an old quarry.
A small-scale model and sweeping, large-format drawings reveal its intricate plan: an artificial banyan-inspired structure that would cradle more than 30 mechanical creatures. Hummingbirds, sloths, butterflies, flocks of wild geese — and a pair of herons that nest at its crown — animate this hybrid of engineering and imagination, turning metal and motion into a living, sky-reaching tableau.
The design, studies and construction were planned to span four years; for now, a one-fifth scale model stands on display. Its purpose was practical and poetic — testing the geometry and proportions of the Tree’s structural anatomy: trunk, branches and root network brought into tangible form.
Despite that promise, the project was shelved in 2023 after a political turn. The incoming green-aligned city administration judged the installation neither ecologically effective nor a wise use of funds, redirecting resources toward housing and other sustainability initiatives instead.
04
Midday Delights in Feydeau — AKA Lunch
A central artery that flows through the heart of Nantes, the Loire River meets the Atlantic Ocean in the same city. France’s longest river and significant geographical and historical landmark, the waterway is known for its role in transportation, the construction of Château des ducs de Bretagne and its association with the Loire Valley. Though its importance declined with the rise of railways, the river has been a major commercial waterway for centuries with Nantes as a major port and industrial center.
The river is also a historically significant boundary and its valley is famous for many castles built during the time of the French court. Today, the Loire River is a popular destination, with scenic cruises, walking paths and gardens along its banks. It’s also very pedestrian friendly and easy to cross on foot.
Across the river, tucked between lively markets and riverfront cafés, Feydeau charms with narrow cobbled streets, elegant 18th-century townhouses and a village-like feel in the heart of Nantes — perfect for slow strolls, cozy bistros and discovering local artisans.
A Cantina once hid in an 18th-century townhouse where exposed timbers and weathered stone set the stage for elevated French classics. I’d come for lunch, expecting something casual, yet the place felt surprisingly refined — too polished for my original plan but impossible to refuse once the aromas reached me. Inside, the room buzzed with conversation and clinking glasses; sunlight peaked through the curtains, lending the whole scene an unexpectedly intimate, almost romantic air.
Tip | A Cantina has since closed but these alternates look incredible: L’Atlantide 1874, Manoir de la Régate or Les Caudalies.
As often is the case in Nantes, a refined bistro with a handwritten menu in French revealed itself to be a place of daily specials rather than a fixed carte. Diners are invited to trust the kitchen or take the server’s recommendation; in this case the suggestion proved rewarding. Fresh, crusty bread arrives first, setting a comforting tone. The starter is an unexpected twist on a classic: a warm gazpacho made from potato and beet, finished with tender, slow-cooked pork — simple, seasonal ingredients presented with quiet confidence.
A delicate main course: flaky white fish dressed in a silky cream sauce and dotted with tiny shrimp, served with a side of nutty wild rice. The flavors, well balanced and thoroughly enjoyable, though the richness leans toward a heavier midday meal.
If you are out looking for a midday bite in Nantes, consider something quintessentially French.
For lunch, start with a warm croque-monsieur slipped into a corner café — golden, gooey and perfectly French — then wander toward the marché for a plate of rillettes de Loire with crusty baguette slices and cornichons, pairing the rustic pork spread with a crisp local Muscadet or an iced sparkling water; add a light fennel and apple salad or a goat-cheese tart for a fresh contrast and finish with a slice of kouign-amann or a creamy caramel flan to savor the buttery sweetness of the region.
05
Walk Among the Secrets of Château des Ducs de Bretagne: Nantes’ Medieval Heartbeat
In the heart of Nantes’ medieval quarter sits the Château des Ducs de Bretagne — the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany — a handsome fortress-turned-museum that tells the story of the city and its busy port. Once the home of Breton dukes, its elegant medieval stonework and ramparts are beautifully preserved. Inside, the Nantes History Museum unfolds the city’s past with thoughtful displays, including a powerful, detailed exhibition on Nantes’ links to the slave trade.
At first glance the château feels like it has risen from the water itself, its stone walls reflected in the moat that wraps around it. Along that ribbon of water, the grass is a velvet carpet where visitors lounge on blankets, chatting softly while birds flit and call at the water’s edge.
Taking in the grandeur and puzzling over the best way to gain entry, keep pace along the busy sidewalk.
Moving along the moat, the path leads to the tower at the far end. A left turn skirts the structure and winds around to the rear, where a restored drawbridge — though not the castle’s original entrance — spans the water and provides access inside.
On this site a castle first rose in the 13th century, its foundations set on old Roman walls. The heart of the present château, however, was shaped in the late 15th century by François II, the last Duke of Brittany, and brought to graceful completion by his daughter Anne of Brittany, later Queen of France. They imagined it as both a fortified home and a proud emblem of ducal authority, where stout defenses met the refined comforts of early Renaissance living. Over the 16th and 17th centuries, it was gently expanded and embellished, until it stood unmistakably as a royal residence.
The castle once housed the Dukes of Brittany from the 13th to the 16th centuries and later served as the Breton home of the French monarchy. Its silhouette blends sturdy medieval ramparts — echoes of its defensive past — with the graceful lines of a 15th-century Renaissance palace, bringing together fortitude and elegance in one captivating whole.
The structure’s standout features are its imposing walls and fortified towers, paired with ornate facades and finely carved stonework. Most enchanting are the Renaissance loggias — elegant, roofed galleries open to the air, framed by columns or arches. Revived from Roman models, these graceful corridors blurred indoor and outdoor spaces, perfect for social gatherings, public announcements or showcasing works of art.
The castle once stood as the beating heart of historic Brittany until the province’s borders changed in 1956. In the 1990s, Nantes launched a loving restoration to return the fortress to its rightful status as a proud symbol of the city and region. After 15 years of careful work and a three-year closure, the castle reopened in 2007 — today welcoming visitors as one of Nantes’s most beloved attractions.
Housed within the lovingly restored walls, the castle now welcomes the Nantes History Museum — a warm, inviting stroll through the city’s past, from its earliest beginnings to its bustling life as a key port in the Age of Exploration. Spread across 32 atmospheric rooms, the museum brings history to life with over 1,150 carefully chosen objects, each one a little window into Nantes’s stories.
The museum also offers a moving, detailed exploration of Nantes’ complicated past with the slave trade — a chapter of history too often left unspoken. Just a short walk away, the Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery gently honors that legacy, its engraved names of slave ships serving as a quiet, powerful reminder.
Both the castle and the museum invite visitors to experience the city’s heritage through a fresh, modern lens — weaving together its past, present and future. As dusk falls, the castle’s night-time illuminations cast a magical glow, underscoring the site’s vibrant revival.
The courtyard, ramparts and moat garden welcome visitors every day, offering a peaceful spot to unwind, meet friends and enjoy lively cultural events. The museum itself is open Tuesday through Sunday (closed on Mondays). I have to admit — I skipped the museum that day and it’s one of those small regrets I have.
Tip | Learn from my mistake — go on in and explore that museum.
One of the château’s most enchanting surprises was the enormous ancient well in the courtyard. Once a lifeline for the estate, it’s carved from granite and crowned with a striking iron framework that holds thirteen pulleys. Its seven-sided base is adorned with animal sculptures — lions, boars, dragons and monkeys — each one watching over a corner of the well as if guarding a secret from long ago.
The central courtyard is embraced by a ring of historic buildings. The Grand Government, once the grand residence of Brittany’s governors and known as the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, still carries the air of its noble past. La Conciergerie, now the Caretaker’s Lodge, first sheltered the duke’s lieutenant and later held the castle’s arsenal. Le Harnachement, which once stored heavy artillery, has been transformed into a bright exhibition space. The Small Government served as the king of France’s lodgings during his stays in Nantes. All of these buildings are held together by the castle’s Outer Walls, which encircle the site like a steady embrace.
06
Stroll the Lush Botanical Gardens of Jardin des Plantes
Any patch of green tucked into the city feels like a small gift — a place to pause, breathe and let the day soften. Whether you’re scribbling in a journal, spreading a picnic blanket, framing the perfect shot or simply soaking up the quiet, the Jardin des Plantes offers that same gentle magic.
The gardens are generally open daily during daylight, though hours, special events and occasional renovations can alter access — check the official website before you go, as parts may be closed at times.
Established in 1635 as a royal medicinal garden, the Botanical Gardens of the Jardin des Plantes — celebrated as a "Jardin Remarquable" — are a living mix of magnolias, camellias and grand greenhouses. More than a beautiful escape, these gardens are devoted to research, conservation and education, nurturing biodiversity and safeguarding plant ecosystems. Vibrant hubs for botany, they welcome visitors with guided tours, hands-on workshops, lectures and rotating exhibitions designed to inspire curiosity and deepen awareness of our natural world.
Nantes isn't the only city with enchanting gardens — Paris boasts one too, and it's steeped in history. As France’s oldest botanical garden, it stretches across four centuries, shelters a dazzling variety of plants and hosts several museums, making it a quietly magical place to wander and discover.
Among the garden’s standout treasures are the greenhouses — from the historic Palmarium to the contemporary Cactus Houses — each a little world of themed plantings, artful installations and calm. They make for a delightful urban refuge just a short stroll from the city center and train station.
The Palmarium, the Jardin des Plantes’ honored centerpiece, has been delighting visitors since 1895. This historic glasshouse brims with lush tropical greenery and boasts enchanting collections of camellias and magnolias — an irresistible, must-see jewel tucked within the wider garden.
The building is utterly enchanting: a red-brick base, a domed glass ceiling and delicate wrought-iron detailing. Sadly, the greenhouse wasn’t open when I visited and the plants inside looked like they’ve had livelier days.
After a bit more digging, I discovered that many of the buildings are mid-renovation — patching hail damage and getting modern makeovers. That would certainly explain the temporary closures.
Tip | Check to see what exhibits are open; you may not want to get your hopes up if you’re looking to explore the greenhouses.
Most of all, the gardens are lovingly tended, a lovely spot to stroll, unwind and soak in the surrounding nature — my personal favorite: discreetly watching the world go by. Trees and blooms wear little name-tags, turning each path into a gentle lesson in botany, while benches and shady alcoves offer welcome relief from the city’s rush. An old greenhouse, repurposed into a cozy café-like nook, adds a touch of whimsy to the peaceful escape.
Over the years the garden has blossomed into one of France’s most enchanting botanical treasures, shaped by plants gathered on voyages around the globe. Today, it shelters more than 10,000 species, a dazzling camellia collection of over 600 varieties, national magnolias, winding lianas and a striking array of cacti and succulents displayed in its lovingly restored winter garden.
One of my favorites was the enormous lilac bushes that spilled over the main entry gates, tumbling across ironwork and stone pillars like a waterfall of purple silk, each bloom radiant and dripping with perfume.
A delightful thread running through the gardens is the art nestling among the plants — oversized, whimsical figures by Nantes native Jean Jullien and adorable miniature greenhouses tucked into corners. These semi-permanent and permanent pieces feel like secrets hidden in the landscape, turning a simple walk into a treasure hunt.
Even with the greenhouses closed for renovations, the grounds remain a tranquil green haven. If you love plants and crave a calm corner of Nantes, the gardens are still well worth a visit.
07
Chase the Magic of a Traveling Carnival
If you’re lucky, a traveling fair might roll into town — not to be mistaken for the grandiose Carnaval de Nantes with its theatrical parades, themed floats, marching bands and confetti sieges. This little carnival, by contrast, delivers the comforts of nostalgia: whirling rides, sugary stalls, blinking lights and the irresistible hum of carousel music — all the classic delights packed into a compact, cozy spectacle.
Still, this fair was unique in its own right. Squeezed into the streets of Nantes, colorful games and wild rides beckoned visitors to partake.
Off my gluten‑free wagon — travel temptation winning — I grabbed a steaming beignet drenched in Nutella, an indulgence well worth the €4.
And believe me, it tasted every bit as incredible as it looked.
08
Wander the Cobblestone Streets of Le Bouffay — Nantes’ Old Town
Nantes Cathedral, la Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul, enchants with its Flamboyant Gothic grace and a story that spans centuries — construction began in 1434 and wasn’t finished until 1891. Nestled in the old town, its pale stone façade and twin towers stand out, while inside a soaring nave climbs to 123 feet (37.5 meters), even taller than Notre-Dame in Paris. The cathedral’s treasures include the sumptuous Renaissance tomb of François II and Margaret of Foix, luminous stained-glass windows that scatter color across the stone and a quiet crypt — alongside a small museum that traces the building’s long, fascinating history.
Only reopened in September 2025 after a heartbreaking 2020 arson that destroyed its organ and roof — now rebuilt in solid concrete — the cathedral stands as the city’s brave, beautiful symbol. When I visited it was closed but that didn’t spoil the experience: I lingered outside, admiring the striking façade and the lovely plaza that frames its entrance. Today, the cathedral welcomes visitors for free — a place where soaring architecture meets quiet refuge in the heart of the city.
Nantes’ old town, with the lively Bouffay district at its center, feels like a storybook come to life. Winding cobblestone lanes slip between leaning half-timbered houses, spilling into sun-dappled squares dotted with boutiques, bistros and crêperies. All around, a pale, luminous stone seems to softly glow — Tuffeau, the Loire Valley’s easy-to-sculpt limestone — dressing façades in flourishes of Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance detail. Against the darker granite accents, these elegant buildings whisper of Nantes’ royal past, lending the city a quietly regal, utterly irresistible charm.
Just around the corner, Agent Paper Nantes charms you with its French flair for eco-conscious paper goods — ornate cards, playful origami and clever customizable pieces that feel like tiny works of art. The shop was utterly tempting; it was nearly impossible to leave empty-handed, though I begrudgingly accepted that any paper treasure wouldn’t survive the rest of my travels.
The Église Sainte-Croix de Nantes — or the Church of the Holy Cross — feels like a lovely little detour: a pilgrimage site where different eras blend harmoniously. Its baroque façade greets you with theatrical flair, the striking nave unfolds with stone lace and soft light, and neo-Gothic accents complete this architectural conversation, each element a chapter of history to behold.
Its 19th-century bell tower, crowned by trumpet-blowing angels and holding the town’s heaviest bell, lends the place an irresistible old-world grace. Linked to the enchanting covered Sainte-Croix Passage — famous for its art-filled exhibitions — the whole ensemble feels like a tucked-away page from a living history.
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Peruse Passage Pommeraye — A Shopper’s Dreamy Stroll
A jewel of 19th-century elegance, the Passage Pommeraye was built from 1840 to 1843 and links rue Santeuil with rue de la Fosse. Named for its visionary developer, Louis Pommeraye, this glass-roofed arcade sits tucked between the city’s façades like a secret waiting to be discovered — its entrance easy to overlook unless you know to look for that hint of light and ornament peeking out from the street.
Perched on a dramatic incline, the house unfolds in tiers linked by a sweeping staircase — but you don’t encounter that sweep at once. The interior eases you in, coy and understated, masking its grace and breadth. Walk down a short corridor lit by glimmering wall lamps and suddenly a vast arcade unfurls before you, as if the room itself has taken a slow, soft bow.
The arcade unfolds over three stunning levels of shops and cafes, centered around a grand, sweeping staircase. Elaborate architecture, ornate wrought-iron railings, Renaissance-style sculptures and elegant Corinthian columns add a timeless, storybook charm to every corner.
The interior feels deliciously theatrical — moody and ever-changing with the sunlight, dressed in rich wine-red tones and graceful arched doorways. Tall, slender mirrors, their surfaces softly marked by age, add a sense of history and quiet glamour.
One of Europe’s most enchanting covered passages and a true city treasure, this elegant arcade was declared a Historic Monument in 1976. Its ornate sculptures, rich history and graceful boutiques lend it an irresistible charm. Every level and angle revealed a fresh, exciting perspective of the space — and that’s when I knew I had to explore the shops. So many were wonderfully unique; I especially loved a little costume jewelry boutique called Byblos.
Completed in 1843, the arcade brought a fresh, new idea to Nantes: the pleasure of window shopping. Its bright, elegant galleries — designed for both leisurely strolls and indulgent browsing — felt luxuriously modern for their time. Today, the arcade still charms visitors with its beautiful architecture and a selection of upscale boutiques, making it a favorite place to wander and soak in the atmosphere.
In the evening, I’d planned on La Mandale for dinner but fate — and an impenetrable reservation list — decided to send me on a different, serendipitous route.
Tip | Call ahead to reserve a table at La Mandale — and tell me what you think.
Just a block away sits The Javanaise, a cozy, much-loved Indonesian spot celebrated for its genuine flavors and welcoming charm — though, sadly, it’s taking a little break for now. Fingers crossed they swing their doors open again soon.
The hospitality lived up to its reputation — the owner himself steered me toward a handful of house specialties. Lumpia, a beloved snack with roots in Chinese cuisine, arrives crisp and inviting like a friendly hug in pastry form. And then there’s rendang: a labor of love often hailed among the world’s most delicious dishes. Beef simmers for hours in a fragrant weave of spices and coconut milk until the sauce thickens and caramelizes, coating each tender bite in deep, soulful flavor.
If neither of these options work for you, the area is a hot spot with several more bars and restaurants: Bistrot Jean Jaurès, Le Petit Saïgon, Oro di Napoli, BAR303, Ariana Restaurant and KOMBU all look incredible.
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How to Get to Saint-Malo from Jersey by Ferry
Heading to Nantes via Saint-Malo or sailing down from Channel Islands Jersey or Guernsey? I’ve been there.
Travel between these ports can feel straightforward on a map but in practice, it’s often a bit messy. While on the island of Jersey, I discovered my itinerary would be trimmed — a ferry cancellation, a hiccup that seems to happen more often than you’d expect. I’d already bought my tickets online, so the scramble that followed was all part of the adventure.
Ferry from Channel Island of Jersey to Saint-Malo, France
Ferries off Jersey island are scarcer than you’d imagine. My boat was cancelled for “poor weather” — though the sky was clear and bright — and I soon discovered that cancellations often come down to low ticket sales, not storms. That means a mad rush as passengers vie for seats on the next crossing. For me, there was no time to linger: waiting days would mean missing a flight and another Airbnb, so I had to find a way off the island, fast.
Tip | Confirm your ferry booking before you leave — sailings are frequently cancelled at short notice, so have a backup plan ready.
St Helier’s bustling Elizabeth Harbour Terminal — the island’s port and departure hub — feels like the last heartbeat of Jersey. In my hurried efforts off the island, I arrived on foot, slipping through security with my ticket and passport, handing my bag over and joining the small crowd of expectant travelers. When the ferry finally glided in, I boarded alongside more than a hundred fellow voyagers.
An hour and a half later, we pulled into Saint-Malo, crossing the channel and the clocks — a one-hour time change that nudged the evening along. Already late, I’d decided to pause my journey there: Nantes was still two hours away by train and arriving that late would have been more hassle than adventure. Instead, I found refuge in a charming little boutique hotel, Quic en Groigne, a cozy sanctuary for the night for just €66.
Travel | Jersey — Elizabeth Harbour Terminal 》France — Saint Malo Ferry Port (1.5 hours via ferry)
How to Take the Ferry from Jersey to France
Taking the ferry from Jersey to France is a small adventure in itself: ferries sail from St. Helier to St. Malo (the most frequent and convenient route) with seasonal links to Granville and occasionally to Carteret; the crossing to St. Malo typically takes about 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, while Granville runs closer to 1 hour 40 minutes.
Carriers include Condor Ferries and Manche Iles Express, with Condor often charging around £40–60 one-way per adult (roughly $50–75 USD) depending on season and advance booking and Manche Iles Express fares usually in the €30–50 range (about $33–55 USD) with discounts for children, seniors and pre-booked return tickets. The trip is a breezy, scenic and surprisingly affordable way to hop from the Channel Islands into the fortified ramparts and crepe-scented streets of Brittany.
Arrive in Saint-Malo & Dine at Le Berbere Saint-Malo
In the historic walled city (Intra-Muros) near Quic en Groigne, Le Berbere Saint-Malo beckons with the promise of Algerian couscous. Mamood, the warmest server imaginable, would be happy to steer you as he did me toward his favorites. I followed his advice and ordered three beef meatballs with every accompaniment he recommended, plus a glass of red wine.
The wine didn’t wow me but the parade of dishes that followed more than made up for it: tender chickpeas, jewel-like golden raisins, slow-stewed carrots, celery and onions, pungent harissa, fluffy couscous — and that was just the beginning. Each bite revealed a new layer of comfort and spice, turning a simple meal into a small, joyful feast.
Mamood reappeared to finish the plating and heaped even more toppings onto my towering couscous and meatball mound — extra vegetables, a generous scatter of chickpeas and a cascade of golden raisins. The first bite stopped me: warm, deeply savory and comfortingly robust, it was the kind of dish that lodges in your memory. Those little bursts of raisin sweetness stole the show, turning every forkful into a small, perfect surprise.
To close the meal, a pot of mint tea — a fragrant brew that tasted like a cousin of the kind from Turkey — and a few moments with Mamood, our conversation stretching as the pot emptied. When the last cup was gone, I could barely move, pleasantly undone by food, warmth and good company.
Tip | Saint-Malo charmed me at first sight — its ramparts, narrow lanes and sea-spray atmosphere begged for a longer stay. If you get the chance, wander this storied walled city on the English Channel coast.
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How to Get to Nantes from Saint-Malo — France
The next leg of the trip — from Saint-Malo to Nantes — quickly unfolded into another mini-adventure, exactly what I hoped for. But first: breakfast. Duck into a tiny café and order something from Bougeotte. Breakfast arrives bright and comforting: crispy hash, sunny-side eggs, a silky dill crema, tangy pickled onions, salty bacon and a crisp salad. Sip a steaming cup of coffee or spicy dirty chai — I admitted to myself I’d navigated the order more by instinct than language — the menu was in French — but every bite was fresh, bold and worth the delicious gamble.
Once full, flag down a taxi to the train station, Gare de Saint-Malo — too far to trudge with bags — and buy a through-ticket to Nantes that covers two separate train legs, around €38 all in. Minutes before departure, the electronic board flashes the platform number, everyone stands at once and hustles across the concourse, climbing aboard.
Travel | Saint Malo Train Station — Gare de Saint-Malo 》Nantes Train Station — Gare de Nantes (2.5-3.5 hours via train - transfer at Rennes)
The first stretch is a calm 50-minute glide, the second a leisurely hour and fifteen. Instead, my trip went off script. In a fluster, I trusted a stranger’s count of stops and leaped off a stop early — landing me in the middle of nowhere. Signs blurred into indecipherable symbols. I fumbled out of the station, heart pounding and propped myself up at the only refuge I could find: a tiny coffee shop whose barista looked as surprised to see me as I was to be there.
There was only one plan: get back on track. I had to find the local train station (I’d gotten off at the high-speed stop), hop on for two stops and then transfer at the main hub to the only onward high-speed train of the day. For reasons I couldn’t fathom, taxis wouldn’t rush me to the local station — everything hinged on that little transfer window. If I missed it, I’d be stuck overnight in a city I didn’t know, wasting time and money. I checked my watch and sprinted toward the local station — 20 minutes to make a miracle happen.
The barista had pointed me in the right direction, so I tore out of the café. Reaching the station, I hopped on the first carriage I could find, heart thudding and rode for two stops. When the doors opened I bolted off, sprinted to the elevator and reached the next platform with roughly thirty seconds to spare. Then, I saw a man break into a run — he looked like he was chasing the same train — so I didn’t hesitate. We both lunged for the doors; I leapt in just as they slammed shut. My gut had been right: it was the right train and I’d made it by the skin of my teeth.
Tip | Travel mishaps are part of the journey — getting lost, overpaying or missing a connection happens to everyone. Instead of beating yourself up, treat each blunder as a funny story, a lesson learned and a souvenir you can laugh about later.
