Nantes: City of the Dukes
Best things to do in Nantes: discover the charm & creative spirit of the “City of the Dukes” with this travel guide.
Nantes is a city on the Loire River in the Upper Brittany region of western France and the sixth largest in the country. It’s also one of the many stops along my European adventure lasting two weeks.
Officially known as the French Republic, France is a country located mostly in western Europe and includes several overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans, giving it a very widespread footprint. Some of those regions and territories include Guadeloupe, French Guiana, Martinique, Mayotte and Réunion, along with Saint Barthélemy, Saint Pierre and Miquelon, French Polynesia and Wallis and Futuna.
France is one of the oldest nations in the world and has been a center of European culture for centuries, most known for the French Revolution and the Enlightenment.
Of course, this nation is also famous for medieval cities, Mediterranean beaches and snowcapped villages. It’s a mecca for sophisticated cuisine and wine, renowned for art, high fashion and entertainment, and philosophy and science.
Nantes, named after the Namnètes, a Gallic tribe who made it their capital, is a region with a long history as a port and industrial center, including its time as a commercial hub under the Romans and occupation under the Normans from 834 to 936.
The city is home to several attractions of both historical significance and as entertainment. Among them is the restored, medieval Château des Ducs de Bretagne, where the Dukes of Brittany once lived, the Place du Bouffay (Bouffay Square) in Old Nantes and the Passage Pommeraye, a stunning shopping arcade.
Most uniquely, the city is known for Les Machines de l'Île, a Verne-inspired exhibition that includes a giant mechanical elephant and several smaller yet just as interesting, contraptions.
Last but not least, Nantes is home to grapes that produce Muscadet white wine, one that pairs nicely with local seafood caught on the nearby Atlantic coast.
My European journey began in UK’s iconic city of London, England, where I discovered the city’s rich history, iconic landmarks, hip art scene and international cuisine.
From there, I traveled by train to Wales, stopping in Cardiff to explore Cardiff Castle and admire the incredible Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades. Then, I moved west along the coast to the charming seaside town of Tenby.
Flying back through London, I landed on the island country and self-governing British Crown Dependency, Isle of Jersey for its stunning coastal scenery, local produce and rich military history.
Leaving Jersey, unexpectedly early, I hopped on a ferry south to France, stopping in Saint-Malo for an evening and then moving on to this incredible city, Nantes, to discover its vibrant cultural scene, rich history and charming architecture.
My last destination was set on France’s southern Mediterranean coast where I’d explore the vibrant colors of Nice and spend a day in Monaco, French Riviera’s playground.
Best Things to Do in Nantes
Enjoy / An evening in Saint Malo
Travel / From Saint Malo to Nantes
Arrive / In Nantes & grab homemade soba
Discover / The magic of Les Machines de l'Île
Lunch / At A Cantina & admire Chateau de ducs de Bretagne
Stroll / The botanical gardens of Jardin des Plantes
Pop Into / A traveling carnival
Wander / The streets of Nantes
Shop / Passage Pommeraye
Best Things to Do in Nantes
Enjoy an Evening in Saint Malo
In case you’re like me and looking to reach Nantes via port city, Saint Malo, or traveling south from Jersey or Guernsey, I’ve got you covered. As is often the case, getting to the next destination ended up being more challenging than anticipated. While in Jersey, I learned my days were getting cut short due to a cancelled ferry; I had previously purchased tickets online.
It turns out that ferries off the island are not as plentiful as I’d hoped and even though my ferry was cancelled due to “poor weather” (it was nothing but gorgeous outside), I learned that ferries are often cancelled due to low sales, pushing everyone to scramble to the next available boat. In my case, unless I wanted to wait several days, missing a flight and another Airbnb booking, I had to get off the island, and fast.
Tip / Double and triple check you have a confirmed ferry ticket off the island and be aware that trips are often cancelled without much notice.
St Helier, Jersey's lifeline port, is home to the Elizabeth Harbour Terminal and where most voyages depart. Rushing off the island, I made it to the port on foot. There, I checked in with security, showed my ticket and passport, handed over my luggage and waited for the ferry to arrive. When it did, I hopped on with more than 100 other travelers. An hour and a half later, we landed in Saint Malo, France, with a one-hour time change. I had decided to stay the evening in Saint Malo since Nantes was another two hours by train and would be tough to find so late in the evening. A cute little boutique hotel called Quic en Groigne, costing €66, was my sanctuary for the night.
Travel / Jersey > (ferry) > Saint Malo, France
Nearby, Le Berbere is an Algerian restaurant specializing in couscous dishes. A friendly face and the kindest server ever, Mamood, recommended the best dishes. Following his lead, I ordered three beef meatballs with all the accompaniments, along with a glass of red wine. The wine wasn’t my favorite but as the dishes began to arrive, I was pleasantly surprised. Prepared chickpeas, golden raisins, stewed vegetables of carrot, celery and onion, harissa and couscous, the list went on.
Mamood returned to help serve up the meal correctly. He piled more toppings onto my mountain of couscous and meatballs, more veggies, more chickpeas, more raisins. I couldn’t believe what I was tasting. It was the most heartwarming, rich and hearty dish I’d had in a long time; and I’m still dreaming about it. The bursts of sweetness from the golden raisins were the highlight.
To finish my meal, I asked for mint tea, similar to traditional Turkish tea, and sat talking with Mamood until I finished the entire pot. I was barely able to move once all was said and done.
Tip / The town of Saint Malo looked super cute and I was bummed I couldn’t stay longer to explore. Consider checking out this walled city on the English Channel coast.
Travel from Saint Malo to Nantes
Getting to Nantes from Saint Malo turned into yet another adventure (and I’d expect nothing less). But first, I stopped in a small café for breakfast. Bougeotte was simple but tasty. I chose a dish with hash, sunny side eggs, crema with dill, pickled onion, bacon and salad with a dirty chai. Honestly, I wasn’t 100% sure of what I was ordering since the menu was in French but it was fresh and full of flavor.
From there, I organized a taxi to the train station, Gare de Saint Malo, as it was a bit too far to walk with luggage. I purchased tickets for the entire stretch from Saint Malo to Nantes, which included two train rides and separate tickets costing €38 total. A few minutes before departure, the signage display let riders know which track to find the train; we all loaded on.
Travel / Saint Malo, France > (trains/transfer at Rennes) > Nantes, France
The first portion of the ride would be about 50 minutes long and the second, an hour and 15 minutes. In a panic, I mistakenly listened to another passenger on how many stops til my transfer and hopped off only to find out I’d done so one stop too early. I’d gotten off essentially in the middle of nowhere. Freaking out and unable to read signs, I stumbled through getting out of the station and finding a local coffee shop. I knew I only had two options to get back on my train and catch the second leg which was the only one for the day. If I didn’t make it, I’d have to stay the night in a strange city and waste even more time and money. And in order to do that, I had to find the local train station, ride it two stops to the main hub where I’d find my fast train, all within the next 20 minutes.
The girl at the coffee shop instructed me where to find the local train station, so I booked it over there as fast as possible. I jumped on the train, hoping I was going in the right direction, and hopped off in two stops. Without thinking, I rushed off the train, up the elevator and with about 30 seconds to spare, I saw another man running. I could only assume he had to be running to my train and immediately started sprinting after him. Jumping on, the door slammed closed behind me. Luckily, my intuition was right and it was the correct train; I’d made it with only a few seconds to spare.
Tip / Travel mistakes happen often, so don’t be too hard on yourself when you get lost, overpay or miss a connection. It’s bound to happen.
Arrive in Nantes & Grab Homemade Soba
An hour later, my train arrived in Nantes. From the main train station, I grabbed a bus to my stay. A few stops later, I arrived at my Airbnb for a much-needed welcome. Four floors up and no elevator, I settled in with a tour of the space and a sigh of relief.
Tip / After purchasing your bus ticket from the station, board the correct bus outside and tap your ticket to the machine correctly, or risk getting in trouble (like I did). Buses only take cash or a pre-purchased card; credit cards are not accepted. For local travel, you can also use the Naolib tram and bus app for mTickets. Additionally, it’s pretty common for city workers to come aboard and verify tickets, so I’d suggest having yours in order. Luckily, public transport on weekends is often free.
The host was generous and set up space in the kitchen with snacks like fruit, bread and nuts, drinks like coffee and tea and a hand drawn welcome note for me and the others.
Ready to take on a new city and looking for a bite, I found out pretty quickly that not much is open in the late afternoon, as far as food goes. Now, if you need a beer or coffee, that is not a problem.
Tip / As is fairly common in France, most restaurants close their doors between 2 p.m. and 7 p.m., so don’t expect to find much available during those hours. Plan meals accordingly.
Soba et Sarrasin is an adorable soba shop with handmade gluten free soba noodles, onigiri and mochi.
The owner is incredibly sweet and patient and helped me decide on a cold soba noodle salad with avocado, pickled carrot and ginger, golden beets and feta with an oil and vinegar dressing, along with a red bean mochi dusted in powered sugar because they were just that beautiful.
Interestingly, the noodle shop didn’t offer any seats inside, so I arranged with the café next door for a table. There, I ordered café crème, an espresso with milk that kicked me on my ass.
Another interesting quirk is that I was given my noodles in glass Tupperware, which I was asked to return after I’d finished eating.
It was such a cute idea to reduce waste and definitely gave vibes of a carefully packed lunch from home but I was shocked that she trusted me enough to actually return the dish.
Once I finished with the noodles, which were fantastic, I returned the dish and thanked the owner for her kindness.
Discover the Magic of Les Machines de l'Île
A small café, mostly filled with others working remotely, Sugar Blue felt very local, like I’d joined the neighborhood’s morning routine. After reviewing the menu, I placed an order for the avocado toast and dirty chai latte. My dish arrived at the table: crispy sourdough topped with scrambled eggs, avocado, carrots, pine nuts, sprouts and feta alongside a dressed salad. The meal was very delicious and the perfect start to the day.
Just a block away, towers Basilique Saint-Nicolas de Nantes, a grand, 1800s church on the site of a 1200s chapel, with a soaring nave and stained-glass windows.
Nearby, Place Royale, a grand pedestrian square set around an ornamental fountain, Fontaine de la Loire, represents local and regional mythology. The plaza was stunning and just beginning to activate as people began their day.
From there, I made my way south across the river toward my appointment at Les Machines de l'Île.
Tip / Purchase tickets to Les Machines de l'Île online ahead of time (at least a day or two in advance, if not more) to avoid long lines and secure your spot, as tickets are limited.
Entering Les Machines de l'Île, lines can be long and chaotic, especially when large groups are present. Thank goodness, I had previously purchased a ticket online for €9.50 because when I arrived, it was a little crazy. Plus, the Gallery only allows a certain number of guests, where each get a limited time slot to enter but can stay as long as they like. To ride on the carousel and elephant Machines tickets are purchased separately.
A creative cultural project of François Delaroziere and Pierre Orefice’s collective imagination, Les Machines de l'Île is a blend of invented worlds by Jules Verne (French novelist, poet and playwright), the mechanical universe of Leonardo da Vinci and the industrial history of Nantes. Set in former shipyards once used for their construction, the space is dubbed a steampunk park that takes visitors on a journey of discovery, blending engineering, art and imagination. And, it was an experience I’d been looking forward to for weeks.
Onsite are the workshop and company, La Machine, along with the Galerie des Machines. Together, they form Les Machines de l’île. Between the two, in the old covered shipyard, is the stunning Carrousel des Mondes Marins, which sadly was not on display during my visit.
Upon entering this fairytale like atmosphere, I roamed about freely, noticing several large groups moving as single units, receiving full explanations and demonstrations of many of the machines. Occasionally, I’d join one of the groups, listening in on the details of how the mechanisms work or how they were developed, or watching demos, as the Machines would periodically awaken, turning into life-like animals or creatures. At times, the groups became overwhelming, so I’d splinter off to discover something new on my own.
In true storytelling fashion and in a post-industrial landscape, guests learn the creative process behind each Machine. The two designers have placed many of the initial sketches on display, while the mechanics of the creatures are often visible, almost as if you’re looking into an x-ray machine. All this leads to not only an entertaining experience but also an educational one.
The "caterpillar" machine is indeed called the Caterpillar (or Chenille in French) and is one of several large mechanical animals in the Galerie des Machines. It’s possible to sit on and operate the caterpillar that moves in an inchworm-like fashion.
Tip / The Machines are operated by machinists who work at the gallery but as soon as they begin a demo, large crowds gather. It’s often best to stand back and get a better view by standing atop a bench or platform.
Part of a "mechanical bestiary,” the "sloth" is a mechanical sloth, an articulated wooden creature with long steel claws that slowly pull itself along a steel pole. Visitors can watch it move or even control it with the help of a machinist.
The "chameleon" is a large, colorful, mechanical puppet with unique movements; it can focus each eye independently and perform a "push-pull" motion at the end of its demonstration.
The "tarantula" is a giant, mechanical spider and one of the many fantastical creatures here. It’s also one of the attractions in the Heron Tree project, the next big effort of the Gallery, which features multiple mechanical creatures like the spider.
The spider is a complex machine that can crawl and rise from below ground, reaching high into the air. Visitors can sometimes ride on its back or even operate it. It was created for the city of Liverpool in 2008, with a second version created in 2010 for Yokohama, Japan.
The study of the Heron Tree took place during 2002 to 2019, with the model’s designs, studies, calculations and prototypes reaching final developments during the last few years. All in all, the exhibit is meant to be 115 feet high and 165 feet wide, set in Jardin Extraordinaire, a stunning public garden created in an old quarry.
A small scale model and massive drawings depict its complex layout that was inspired by the banyan tree and would be home to over 30 mechanical animals like hummingbirds, sloths, butterflies, wild geese and a pair of herons who nest at the top.
The design, studies and construction are to carry on for four years but currently a model in one fifth the scale is on display. It was used to validate the concepts and shapes of the Tree’s structural elements like the trunk, branches and roots.
Sadly, the project was canceled in 2023 due to a political shift, with the new green-aligned city government deeming it ecologically useless and too expensive, preferring investments in housing and other green projects instead.
The Giant Hummingbird and the Flight of the Geese are also part of the mechanical city in the sky. They rest on branches, on a walkway, on the canopy of the Tree or nested on the fork of a branch.
Guide / For more details and imagery of Les Machines de l'Île, including the Gallery’s massive Grand Éléphant in action and my favorite area, the greenhouse, visit this post: The Magic of Les Machines de l'Île (coming soon).
Lunch at A Cantina
A central artery that flows through the heart of Nantes, the Loire River meets the Atlantic Ocean in the same city. France’s longest river and significant geographical and historical landmark, the waterway is known for its role in transportation, the construction of Château des ducs de Bretagne and its association with the Loire Valley. Though its importance declined with the rise of railways, the river has been a major commercial waterway for centuries with Nantes as a major port and industrial center. The river is also a historically significant boundary and its valley is famous for many castles built during the time of the French court. Today, the Loire River is a popular destination, with scenic cruises, walking paths and gardens along its banks. It’s also very pedestrian friendly and easy to cross on foot.
Across the river, a charming restaurant called A Cantina serves elevated traditional French cuisine in an 18th century townhouse with exposed timbers and stone walls. Arriving for lunch, it was a bit more upscale than I intended but I’m not one to pass up a delicious meal. Inside, the restaurant felt (unexpectedly) busy and dare I say, romantic.
Tip / A Cantina has since closed but I’d imagine several others compare. Try L’Atlantide 1874, Manoir de la Régate or Les Caudalies.
Though the menu was in French, I managed to work out that they were serving daily specials and didn’t have a formal menu. I opted for what my server recommended and waited patiently as fresh bread arrived at the table. My starter was a warm gazpacho of potato and beets, topped with slow cooked pork.
For my main, a white fish with a cream sauce and tiny shrimp, alongside wild rice. Everything was super tasty but just a bit rich for lunch. I’d love to return in the evening to see what’s on the menu for dinner.
Explore Chateau de ducs de Bretagne
In the heart of the medieval district of Nantes lies Chateau de ducs de Bretagne, or Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, a castle and museum detailing the history of the port and city of Nantes. Château des Ducs de Bretagne is most known as the former residence of the Dukes of Brittany, its well-preserved medieval architecture and role as the current Nantes History Museum, which includes a detailed exhibition on the city's history with the slave trade.
Upon first sight, the chateau is imposing and seems to emerge straight out of the moat. This moat surrounds the structure and meets lush green grass where visitors rested on blankets chatting alongside birds at the waters edge.
Taking in the grandeur and trying to work out just exactly how to get inside, I continued walking along the busy street.
Moving along the moat, I reached the tower at the opposite end, turned left and headed around back where I ultimately found a draw bridge leading into the castle (not its original entrance).
In the 13th century, the first castle was built on the site, built on Roman walls. The main construction took place during the late 15th century by François II, the last Duke of Brittany, and was completed by his daughter, Anne of Brittany, who became Queen of France. They designed it as a fortified residence and a symbol of ducal power, blending military defenses with elegant Renaissance living quarters. During the 16th and 17th centuries, further buildings and refinements were added, solidifying its role as a royal residence.
The castle was the residence of the Dukes of Brittany from the 13th to the 16th centuries and later the Breton residence of the French Monarchy. It features a mix of defensive fortifications, characteristic of its medieval origins, and the more refined Renaissance residential palace, that was added in the 15th century.
The structure’s highlights include imposing walls, fortified towers, elaborate facades, intricate stonework and Renaissance loggias. These loggias were elegant, open-sided, roofed galleries or corridors, often with columns or arches, revived from Roman designs to serve as transitional indoor-outdoor spaces for social gatherings, public announcements or displaying art.
The castle served as the center of the historical province of Brittany until its separation in 1956. And beginning in the 1990s, the town of Nantes undertook a massive effort to restore and repair the site to its former glory as an emblem of the history of Nantes and Brittany. After 15 years of work and three years of closure, the castle reopened in 2007 and is now a popular tourist attraction.
The restored structure is home to the new Nantes History Museum, offering a journey through the city's history, from its origins to its role as a major port during the Age of Exploration. Installed in 32 of the castle rooms, the museum presents more than 1,150 objects to tell its stories.
Additionally, the museum provides an in-depth look at Nantes' complex history with the slave trade, a topic often not discussed in detail. The castle is also linked to a separate memorial nearby with engraved names of slave ships that departed from Nantes called the Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery.
Both the castle and the museum aim to offer a modern vision of the heritage by presenting the past, the present and the future of the city. Night-time illuminations of the castle continue to reinforce the revival of the site.
The courtyard, ramparts and moat garden are open to the public daily and are a place for relaxing, socializing and holding cultural events. Access into the museum is available Tuesday through Sunday (closed Mondays). Admittedly, I didn’t have the energy to visit the museum but that’s something I regret.
One of the most interesting features at the chateau was the massive ancient well in the courtyard. Serving as a vital water source in years past, the well is made of granite with a distinctive iron structure featuring 13 pulleys and animal sculptures on its seven-sided base. Each corner of the well's edge is sculpted with figures like lions, boars, dragons and monkeys.
The center courtyard is surrounded by several structures. The Grand Government served as the residence of the governors of Brittany, otherwise known as Castle of the Dukes of Brittany. La Conciergerie is currently the Caretaker's Lodge but first housed the lieutenant of the duke, then the castle's arsenal of weapons. Le Harnachement was used to store artillery but is now an exhibition center. The Small Government is the former home of the king of France during his visits to Nantes. All structures are surrounded by The Outer Walls, the walls of the castle.
Stroll the Botanical Gardens of Jardin des Plantes
Any green space set within a city offers something special. It allows guests a few moments to slow down, unwind and reflect, whether it’s writing in a journal, picnicking, shooting photos or enjoying nature. And the Botanical Gardens of Jardin des Plantes are no different.
Founded as a royal medicinal garden in 1635 and known as "Jardin Remarquable" for its vast collection of plants, magnolias, camellias and greenhouses, the Botanical Gardens of the Jardin des Plantes’ main focus is research, conservation and education.
Perhaps most importantly, the gardens aim to promote biodiversity and protect plant ecosystems, creating active centers for botany. As such, both locations offer educational activities like guided tours, workshops, lectures and temporary exhibitions to raise public awareness about environmental issues.
With two locations, Nantes is not the only city to enjoy such gardens. The location in Paris is historically significant as France's oldest botanical garden spanning 400 years and is home to multiple museums alongside diverse flora.
Of the most significant sites at the gardens in Nantes are the greenhouses, including the historic Palmarium and modern Cactus Houses, that offer themed gardens, art installations and a peaceful urban escape near the city center and train station.
The Palmarium is the oldest and main highlight of the city's Jardin des Plantes, serving as its historic greenhouse dating from 1895. The greenhouse is filled with tropical plants, including the famous collections of camellias and magnolias, making it a must-see stop within the larger garden.
The structure itself was absolutely stunning, with a red brick base, domed glass ceiling and ornate iron work but unfortunately, the greenhouse was not open during my visit and the plants inside had seen better days.
Upon further research, it turns out that many of the structures have been undergoing significant renovations, including repairs from hail damage and modernization efforts. Perhaps, this is the reason for the closure.
Tip / Check to see what exhibits are open; you may not want to get your hopes up if you’re looking to explore the greenhouses.
The grounds are well-maintained and offer a beautiful place to walk, relax and enjoy nature - or my favorite past time, people watch. Many of the flowers and trees are labeled with species’ names and provide a cool respite to the busy city with benches and shaded areas, including an old greenhouse used as a cafe of sorts.
Over the years, the garden became one of France's significant botanical sites, growing and evolving with plants brought home from global voyages. The gardens are home to over 10,000 plant species, extensive camellia collections with over 600 varieties, national magnolia collections, lianas and impressive cacti and succulents in its refurbished winter garden.
One of my favorites had to be the massive lilac bushes covering the main entry gates. Oozing over the iron rods and stone columns like spilled maple syrup, the vibrant purple flowers were gorgeous and oh, so fragrant.
Another captivating aspect of the gardens is the art. Art is integrated seamlessly into the landscape, featuring semi-permanent and permanent art installations, including playful figures by Nantes native, Jean Jullien and mini greenhouses.
Typically open seven days a week during daylight hours, it might be wise to double check the official website for current hours and events, as they vary seasonally and with renovations. Access may be limited at times.
During my visit to the gardens, all the greenhouses were closed. Many of the plants inside seemed to be struggling and the doors to enter, locked. Hopefully, this was only a short closure but either way, if you’re looking for a peaceful green space in Nantes and consider yourself a plant enthusiast, do take the time to visit.
Pop Into a Traveling Carnival
Not to be confused with the official Nantes Carnival (Carnaval de Nantes), a major French festival with spectacular parades including silly, themed floats like giant puppets or political satire, marching bands, confetti battles and entertainment - a carnival that attracts huge crowds to celebrate the transition of spring with vibrance, creativity and large-scale mechanical figures.
Still, this fair was unique in its own right. Squeezed into the streets of Nantes, colorful games and wild rides beckoned visitors to partake.
Off my gluten free wagon, as often happens on my travels, I paused to pick up a delicious warm beignet slathered in Nutella for €4.
And yes, it was everything.
Wander the Streets of Nantes
Nantes Cathedral, or Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul, is a stunning Flamboyant Gothic cathedral famous for its incredibly long construction (1434-1891), impressive height and Renaissance tomb of François II and Margaret of Foix. In old town, with a distinctive white stone facade and impressive twin towers, the cathedral houses a nave reaching 123 feet high, taller than Notre Dame in Paris. It also features beautiful stained glass windows and a crypt, a museum on the cathedral’s history.
Only recently reopened in September 2025 after a devastating 2020 arson attack damaging its organ and roof, which were rebuilt in concrete, the cathedral is a resilient symbol of the city. So, during my recent visit, the cathedral was not open. Still, I enjoyed the incredible architecture from the exterior, along with the beautiful plaza facing its front. Today, entry is free to this cultural landmark; expect awe-inspiring architecture and a peaceful retreat from the city.
Nantes' old town, centered on the vibrant Bouffay district, is a charming medieval heart with narrow cobblestone streets, leaning half-timbered houses, lively squares, boutiques, bistros and creperies. And the inspiring white stone architecture is everywhere. Tuffeau stone is a soft, easily carved limestone from the Loire Valley and seen all over the city. It highlights the Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance styles that pair with contrasting granite structures, reflecting Nantes' rich royal history.
Nearby, Agent Paper Nantes is a French company specializing in creative, eco-friendly paper products like decorative gifts and cards that feature intricate designs, origami and customizable elements. The shop was super interesting and unique; it was tough to leave without something special but I knew anything made of paper wouldn’t survive the rest of my travels.
A place of pilgrimage, Église Sainte-Croix de Nantes, or Church of the Holy Cross, is a Catholic church and tourist spot recognized for its unique blend of architectural styles, featuring a Baroque facade, Flamboyant Gothic nave and Neo-Gothic elements.
Its distinctive 19th-century bell tower houses the town's heaviest bell and is adorned with trumpet-blowing angels, making it a historically rich landmark, especially in the connected Sainte-Croix Passage, a historic, covered passageway known for art exhibitions.
Shop Passage Pommeraye
A historic, glass-covered shopping arcade built between 1840 and 1843, Passage Pommeraye connects two streets (rue Santeuil and rue de la Fosse) and is named after its developer, Louis Pommeraye. Almost hidden among the streets’ facade, the entrance might be missed entirely unless you know exactly what you’re looking for.
Uniquely built on a steep incline, the tiered layout is connected by a grand stair but before you reach the stair, the interior opens up slowly, deceiving you of its elegance and scale. At the end of a small corridor lined with decorative wall hung lights, a massive arcade opens before your eyes.
The arcade has three levels of shops and cafes and features the monumental staircase, alongside elaborate architecture, wrought-iron railings, renaissance-style sculptures and Corinthian columns.
The interior is uniquely distinct and over the top in so many ways. It’s moody, dependent upon the exterior sunlight, and accented in deep red wine and arched doorways. Even the tall slender mirrors appeared to be original, marked with time.
One of Europe’s most beautiful covered passages and a classic treasure of the city, the structure reached status as a Historic Monument in 1976. The ornate sculptures, historic significance and elegant shops only add to its charm.
Each level and angle offered a new perspective of the space entirely. And it was only then that I realized, I must check out some of the shops. So many of them were unique and I particularly enjoyed one with costume jewelry called Byblos.
Completed in 1843, the arcade was an innovative concept that introduced the idea of "window shopping" to Nantes, with luxurious, brightly lit spaces for shopping and leisure. Today, it continues to host a variety of upscale shops and is a popular spot for strolling and enjoying its beautiful design.
For dinner, I had my heart set on La Mandale but regrettably, it wasn’t in the cards; they were fully booked.
Tip / Call ahead to reserve a spot at La Mandale (and let me know how it is).
Pivoting, one block over is The Javanaise, a casual but highly recommended Indonesian restaurant known for its authentic cuisine and warm hospitality.
Warm hospitality was right, as I was recommended several of the specials by the owner. Lumpia are a popular snack or appetizer of Chinese origin, similar to spring rolls, while rendang, a labor intensive dish, is considered one of the world’s most delicious. It features a slow-cooked beef cooked in a complex blend of spices and coconut milk until it reduces and the meat is tender, coated in a rich caramelized sauce.