Best things to do in Nantes: discover the charm & creative spirit of the “City of the Dukes” with this travel guide.

Nantes is a city on the Loire River in the Upper Brittany region of western France and the sixth largest in the country. It’s also one of the many stops along my European adventure lasting two weeks.

Officially known as the French Republic, France is a country located mostly in western Europe and includes several overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans, giving it a very widespread footprint. France is one of the oldest nations in the world and has been a center of European culture for centuries, most known for the French Revolution and the Enlightenment. Of course, this nation is also famous for medieval cities, Mediterranean beaches and snowcapped villages. It’s a mecca for sophisticated cuisine and wine, renowned for art, high fashion and entertainment, and philosophy and science.

Nantes, named after the Namnètes, a Gallic tribe who made it their capital, is a region with a long history as a port and industrial center, including its time as a commercial hub under the Romans and occupation under the Normans between 834 to 936.

The city is home to several attractions of both historical significance and as entertainment. Among them is the restored, medieval Château des Ducs de Bretagne, where the Dukes of Brittany once lived, the Place du Bouffay (Bouffay Square) in Old Nantes and the Passage Pommeraye, a stunning shopping arcade. Most uniquely, the city is known for Les Machines de l'Île, a Verne-inspired exhibition that includes a giant mechanical elephant and several smaller yet just as interesting, contraptions. Oh, and Nantes is home to grapes that produce Muscadet white wine, one that pairs nicely with local seafood caught on the nearby Atlantic coast.

I kicked off my European adventure in London, England, where centuries of history mingle with cutting-edge art, legendary landmarks punctuate every skyline and a world of flavors—from street food markets to Michelin-starred kitchens—reflects the city’s global heartbeat.

A train journey to Wales included a pause in Cardiff to wander the atmospheric rooms of Cardiff Castle and get lost beneath the ornate glass-and-iron vaults of the Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades. After soaking up the city’s heritage, the route continued west along the coastline to the postcard-perfect seaside town of Tenby, where pastel colored houses, sandy beaches and salty air felt like a different world.

Touching down after a stopover in London, the Isle of Jersey revealed itself — a compact, self-governing British Crown Dependency brimming with dramatic coastal cliffs, markets overflowing with local produce and layers of military history etched into its landscape.

Leaving Jersey sooner than planned, a ferry ride carried me south to France—an evening spent wandering Saint-Malo before the journey continued to this city, Nantes, a city alive with creative energy, layered history and graceful architecture.

France’s southern Mediterranean coast was next on the itinerary, where vibrant Nice awaited with its kaleidoscope of color and a day-long detour promised the glamour of Monaco, the French Riviera’s famed playground.

Best Experiences in Nantes You Can’t Miss

Discovering Nantes feels like wandering through a playful blend of medieval charm and cutting-edge creativity, where riverfront promenades, lively markets and whimsical public art invite leisurely exploration. Every corner reveals a story — from historic châteaux to experimental cultural spaces — making the city feel both comfortably familiar and excitingly new.

Enjoy an Enchanting Evening in Saint-Malo

Heading to Nantes via Saint-Malo or sailing down from Jersey or Guernsey? I’ve been there. Travel between these ports can feel straightforward on a map but in practice it’s often a bit messy. While in Jersey, I discovered my itinerary would be trimmed—another ferry cancellation, a hiccup that seems to happen more often than you’d expect. I’d already bought my tickets online, so the scramble that followed was all part of the adventure.

Ferries off the island were scarcer than I’d imagined. My boat was cancelled for “poor weather” — though the sky was clear and bright — and I soon discovered that cancellations often come down to low ticket sales, not storms. That meant a mad rush as passengers vied for seats on the next crossing. For me, there was no time to linger: waiting days would mean missing a flight and another Airbnb, so I had to find a way off the island, fast.

Tip / Confirm your ferry booking before you leave — sailings are frequently cancelled at short notice, so have a backup plan ready.

St Helier’s bustling Elizabeth Harbour Terminal — the island’s port and departure hub — felt like the last heartbeat of Jersey. In hurried efforts off the island, I arrived on foot, slipping through security with my ticket and passport, handing my bag over and joining the small crowd of expectant travelers. When the ferry finally glided in, I boarded alongside more than a hundred fellow voyagers.

An hour and a half later, we pulled into Saint-Malo, crossing the channel and the clocks — a one-hour time change that nudged the evening along. I’d decided to pause my journey there: Nantes was still two hours away by train and arriving that late would have been more hassle than adventure. Instead, I found refuge in a charming little boutique hotel, Quic en Groigne, a cozy sanctuary for the night for just €66.

Travel / Jersey - Elizabeth Harbour Terminal 》Saint Malo, France (1.5 hours via ferry)

Nearby, Le Berbere beckons with the promise of Algerian couscous. Mamood, the warmest server imaginable, would be happy to steer you as he did me toward his favorites. I followed his advice and ordered three beef meatballs with every accompaniment he recommended, plus a glass of red wine. The wine didn’t wow me but the parade of dishes that followed more than made up for it: tender chickpeas, jewel-like golden raisins, slow-stewed carrots, celery and onions, pungent harissa, fluffy couscous—and that was just the beginning. Each bite revealed a new layer of comfort and spice, turning a simple meal into a small, joyful feast.

Mamood reappeared to finish the plating and heaped even more toppings onto my towering couscous and meatball mound—extra vegetables, a generous scatter of chickpeas and a cascade of golden raisins. The first bite stopped me: warm, deeply savory and comfortingly robust, it was the kind of dish that lodges in your memory. Those little bursts of raisin sweetness stole the show, turning every forkful into a small, perfect surprise.

To close the meal, I asked for mint tea — a fragrant brew that tasted like a cousin of the kind from Turkey — and lingered with Mamood, our conversation stretching as the pot emptied. When the last cup was gone, I could barely move, pleasantly undone by food, warmth and good company.

Tip / Saint-Malo charmed me at first sight — its ramparts, narrow lanes and sea-spray atmosphere begged for a longer stay. If you get the chance, wander this storied walled city on the English Channel coast.

Journey from Saint-Malo to Nantes

The next leg of the trip—from Saint-Malo to Nantes—quickly unfolded into another mini-adventure, exactly what I hoped for. But first: breakfast. I ducked into a tiny café and ordered something called Bougeotte. The dish arrived as a bright, comforting jumble: crispy hash, sunny-side eggs, a silky dill crema, tangy pickled onions, salty bacon and a crisp salad. I sipped a spicy dirty chai and admitted to myself I’d navigated the order more by instinct than language—the menu was in French—but every bite was fresh, bold and worth the delicious gamble.

I flagged down a taxi to Gare de Saint-Malo — too far to trudge with my bags — and bought a through-ticket to Nantes that covered two separate train legs, €38 all in. Minutes before departure the electronic board flashed the platform number, we hustled across the concourse and everyone climbed aboard.

Travel / Saint Malo, France 》Nantes, France (2.5-3.5 hours via train - transfer at Rennes)

The first stretch should’ve been a calm 50-minute glide, the second a leisurely hour and fifteen. Instead, my trip went off script. In a fluster, I trusted a stranger’s count of stops and leaped off a stop early—landing me in the middle of nowhere. Signs blurred into indecipherable symbols. I fumbled out of the station, heart pounding and propped myself up at the only refuge I could find: a tiny coffee shop whose barista looked as surprised to see me as I was to be there.

There was only one plan: get back on the network, ride two stops to the main hub and catch the only onward train of the day. For reasons I couldn’t fathom, taxis wouldn’t take me straight through, so everything hinged on that little transfer window. If I missed it, I’d be stuck overnight in a city I didn’t know, wasting time and money. I checked my watch and sprinted toward the local station—20 minutes to make a miracle happen.

The barista had pointed me toward the nearest train station, so I tore out of the café. Reaching the station, I hopped on the first carriage I could find, heart thudding and rode for two stops. When the doors opened I bolted off, sprinted to the elevator and reached the next platform with roughly thirty seconds to spare. Then I saw a man break into a run — he looked like he was chasing the same train — so I didn’t hesitate. We both lunged for the doors; I leapt in just as they slammed shut. My gut had been right: it was the right train and I’d made it by the skin of my teeth.

Tip / Travel mishaps are part of the journey — getting lost, overpaying or missing a connection happens to everyone. Instead of beating yourself up, treat each blunder as a funny story, a lesson learned and a souvenir you can laugh about later.

Touch Down in Nantes — First Stop: Cold Homemade Soba

An hour later the train pulled into Nantes. From the main station, I hopped on a bus and after a few stops I was at my Airbnb, finally home. Four flights up with no elevator, I hauled my bags inside, wandered through the cozy rooms, then sank onto a chair and let out a long, contented sigh.

Tip / After purchasing your bus ticket from the station, board the correct bus outside and tap your ticket to the machine, or risk getting in trouble (like I did). Buses only take cash or a pre-purchased card; credit cards are not accepted. For local travel, you can also use the Naolib tram and bus app for mTickets. Additionally, it’s pretty common for city workers to come aboard and verify tickets, so I’d suggest having yours in order. Luckily, public transport on weekends is often free.

The host went above and beyond, arranging a cozy kitchen corner stocked with fresh fruit, crusty bread and mixed nuts, along with coffee, tea and a handwritten welcome note for me and the other guests.

Eager to explore a new city and hunting for a snack, I soon discovered that late afternoons are a culinary desert — most kitchens shuttered. Coffee or a cold beer, though? Easy as pie.

Tip / As is fairly common in France, most restaurants close their doors between 2 p.m. and 7 p.m., so don’t expect to find much available during those hours. Plan meals accordingly.

Soba et Sarrasin is a charming little soba spot where every bowl features handmade, gluten-free buckwheat noodles — paired with house-made onigiri and pillowy mochi for a perfect, comforting bite.

The owner—warm, patient, and impossibly kind—guided me toward a chilled soba salad crowned with creamy avocado, bright pickled carrot and ginger, jewel-toned golden beets and tangy feta, all tossed in a simple oil-and-vinegar dressing. For dessert, I couldn't resist a red bean mochi, its surface dusted in powdered sugar — too pretty to pass up.

The noodle shop had no indoor seating, so you’ll likely need to sweet-talk the neighboring café into lending a table. Do it—order a café crème there: an espresso softened with milk but fierce enough to slap some life back into you.

Another curious detail: the noodles arrived in glass Tupperware — a reusable, almost homey serving vessel that diners are requested to return once the meal is finished.

A charming zero-waste touch — your meal feels cozy and personal, and surprise, she trusts customers to bring the dish back.

The noodles are fantastic. After finishing the meal, return the plate and offer a quiet word of thanks to the owner for her kindness. The simple exchange—good food, gracious hospitality—captured the warm, unhurried rhythm of the neighborhood eatery and made the meal feel like a small, memorable moment in the day's explorations.

Discover the Fantastical Machines of Les Machines de l'Île

Sugar Blue sits like a neighborhood secret, a small café where the hum of remote workers blends with the clink of cups and the scent of freshly brewed coffee. It feels distinctly local—part of the community rhythm rather than a tourist stop—making it an inviting place to begin a day exploring the area.

The menu offers simple, thoughtfully prepared fare. One popular choice is the avocado toast served on crispy sourdough, piled with scrambled eggs, fresh avocado, shredded carrots, toasted pine nuts, sprouts and crumbled feta, accompanied by a lightly dressed side salad. Paired with a creamy dirty chai latte, the combination makes for a satisfying morning meal—flavorful, balanced and perfectly suited to fuel a day of wandering.

Just a block away rises the Basilique Saint-Nicolas de Nantes: a 19th-century masterpiece built atop a 13th-century chapel, its soaring nave framed by intricate stonework and luminous stained-glass windows that spill color across the interior.

Nearby, Place Royale unfolded into a grand pedestrian square centered on the ornate Fontaine de la Loire, a sculpted ode to local and regional myths. Morning light gilded the stone, and the plaza—stately and cinematic—quietly stirred to life as early risers, vendors and commuters began to thread through its spaces.

From there, head south across the river toward Les Machines de l'Île, where towering mechanical creatures and imaginative installations bring Nantes’ industrial past to life. The stroll along the riverbank reveals waterfront cafés, art-filled quays and views of the city’s mix of brick warehouses and modern architecture.

Tip / Buy your Les Machines de l'Île tickets online before you go—ideally a few days in advance—to skip long lines and guarantee entry, since capacity is limited. Your booking will include a specific arrival window, so plan to arrive within that time.

Lines snake and pulse outside Les Machines de l'Île, swelling into occasional chaos when tour groups converge. Buying a ticket online ahead of time, €9.50, is a smart move — it sidesteps the most unpredictable queues. Inside, the Gallery controls the flow with timed entry: each group is admitted for a brief window but may linger as long as they like once inside. Note that rides on the carousel and the mechanical elephant require separate tickets.

A creative cultural project of François Delaroziere and Pierre Orefice’s collective imagination, Les Machines de l'Île is a blend of invented worlds by Jules Verne (French novelist, poet and playwright), the mechanical universe of Leonardo da Vinci and the industrial history of Nantes. Set in former shipyards once used for their construction, the space is dubbed a steampunk park that takes visitors on a journey of discovery, blending engineering, art and imagination. And, it was an experience I’d been looking forward to for weeks.

On site, you'll find La Machine’s workshop and creative studio, joined by the Galerie des Machines — together they make up the imaginative world of Les Machines de l’île. Nestled between them in the old covered shipyard sits the breathtaking Carrousel des Mondes Marins, a fantastical sea-themed merry-go-round that, unfortunately, wasn’t in operation during my visit.

Stepping into the fairytale setting, visitors drift through a world where mechanics and magic blurred. Clusters of people flow together like schools of fish, gathered around guides who reveal the inner secrets of intricate machines and bring them to life with dramatic demonstrations. At intervals, the engines shudder and hum, then transform into astonishing, animated beasts—clockwork birds unfurling wings, plump insects inching slowly. Some follow the groups to catch every technical detail and origin story; others peel away from the crowd, drawn to hidden corners and quieter curiosities, exploring the exhibition’s surprises at their own pace.

Set against a post-industrial backdrop, the exhibition unfolds like a living story: visitors trace the creative journey of each Machine from rough sketch to moving marvel. The designers have pinned early drawings throughout the space, while exposed gears and inner workings reveal the creatures’ mechanical hearts—like peering into a giant x-ray. The result is a captivating blend of spectacle and insight, equal parts theater and lesson.

The “Caterpillar” — known as the Chenille in French — is one of the oversized mechanical creatures housed in the Galerie des Machines. Visitors can actually climb aboard and pilot it as it undulates forward in a charming, inchworm-like motion.

Tip / The Machines are run by skilled machinists from the gallery and the instant a demo starts a crowd swells around them. For a clearer view, drift to the edges and climb onto a bench or platform—elevated vantage points turn the spectacle into an unforgettable show.

Part of a "mechanical bestiary," the "sloth" is a handcrafted wooden automaton—joints clicking softly, limbs carved with careful detail—its long steel claws hooked around a polished rail. It inches along the steel pole with a deliberate, hypnotic slowness. Visitors linger to watch its patient progress and with the guidance of a machinist they can even take the controls, coaxing the creature through its measured, lifelike crawl.

A towering, kaleidoscopic mechanical puppet, the "chameleon" dazzles with uncanny, lifelike motions: each eye can lock and wander independently, surveying the crowd and its finale—a surprising, rhythmic push-and-pull maneuver—leaves spectators spellbound.

The "tarantula" looms like a colossal clockwork predator — a giant mechanical spider among a menagerie of fantastical creations. It’s a highlight of the Heron Tree project, the Gallery’s next ambitious showcase, where other intricate, animated creatures share the stage with the spider.

A towering mechanical arachnid, the spider moves with eerie grace: emerging from beneath the ground, crawling and unfurling its long legs to loom high above the crowd. Spectators can sometimes climb onto its back or even take the controls, becoming part of the spectacle. The original was built for Liverpool in 2008, and a second, equally impressive version debuted in Yokohama in 2010.

From 2002 to 2019 the Heron Tree evolved from idea to near-reality, its designs, calculations and prototypes refined slowly until a flurry of final developments in recent years. Towering at an intended 115 feet and spreading 165 feet across, the installation will rise in Jardin Extraordinaire — a dramatic public garden carved from an old quarry.

A small-scale model and sweeping, large-format drawings reveal its intricate plan: an artificial banyan-inspired structure that will cradle more than 30 mechanical creatures. Hummingbirds, sloths, butterflies, flocks of wild geese — and a pair of herons that nest at its crown — animate this hybrid of engineering and imagination, turning metal and motion into a living, sky-reaching tableau.

The design, studies and construction were planned to span four years; for now, a one-fifth scale model stands on display. Its purpose was practical and poetic — testing the geometry and proportions of the Tree’s structural anatomy: trunk, branches and root network brought into tangible form.

Despite that promise, the project was shelved in 2023 after a political turn. The incoming green-aligned city administration judged the installation neither ecologically effective nor a wise use of funds, redirecting resources toward housing and other sustainability initiatives instead.

The Giant Hummingbird and the Flight of the Geese join the mechanical city in the sky, scattered like curious sculptures: perched on iron branches, balanced along a suspended walkway, crouched atop the Tree’s metallic canopy, or tucked into the fork of a branch as if settling in for the night.

Read / For a closer look at Les Machines de l'Île — from the Gallery’s stomping, steam-breathing Grand Éléphant to my personal favorite, the secret-greenhouse — check out my upcoming post: Mechanical Dreams on the Loire: Exploring the Enchanting World of Les Machines de l'Île — coming soon.

Lunch at A Cantina: Elevated French Fare

A central artery that flows through the heart of Nantes, the Loire River meets the Atlantic Ocean in the same city. France’s longest river and significant geographical and historical landmark, the waterway is known for its role in transportation, the construction of Château des ducs de Bretagne and its association with the Loire Valley. Though its importance declined with the rise of railways, the river has been a major commercial waterway for centuries with Nantes as a major port and industrial center. The river is also a historically significant boundary and its valley is famous for many castles built during the time of the French court. Today, the Loire River is a popular destination, with scenic cruises, walking paths and gardens along its banks. It’s also very pedestrian friendly and easy to cross on foot.

Across the river, A Cantina hides in an 18th-century townhouse where exposed timbers and weathered stone set the stage for elevated French classics. I’d come for lunch, expecting something casual, yet the place felt surprisingly refined—too polished for my original plan but impossible to refuse once the aromas reached me. Inside, the room buzzed with conversation and clinking glasses; sunlight pooled on worn floorboards, lending the whole scene an unexpectedly intimate, almost romantic air.

Tip / A Cantina has since closed but I’d imagine several others compare. Try L’Atlantide 1874, Manoir de la Régate or Les Caudalies.

A refined bistro with a handwritten menu in French revealed itself to be a place of daily specials rather than a fixed carte. Diners are invited to trust the kitchen or take the server’s recommendation; in this case the suggestion proved rewarding. Fresh, crusty bread arrives first, setting a comforting tone. The starter is an unexpected twist on a classic: a warm gazpacho made from potato and beet, finished with tender, slow-cooked pork—simple, seasonal ingredients presented with quiet confidence.

A lunch stop revealed a delicate main course: flaky white fish dressed in a silky cream sauce and dotted with tiny shrimp, served with a side of nutty wild rice. The flavors were well balanced and thoroughly enjoyable, though the richness leaned toward a heavier midday meal.

Explore the Secrets of Château des Ducs de Bretagne: Nantes’ Medieval Heartbeat

In the heart of the medieval district of Nantes lies Château des ducs de Bretagne, or Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, a castle and museum detailing the history of the port and city of Nantes. Château des Ducs de Bretagne is most known as the former residence of the Dukes of Brittany, its well-preserved medieval architecture and role as the current Nantes History Museum, which includes a detailed exhibition on the city's history with the slave trade.

Upon first sight, the chateau is imposing and seems to emerge straight out of the moat. This moat surrounds the structure and meets lush green grass where visitors rested on blankets chatting alongside birds at the waters edge.

Taking in the grandeur and puzzling over the best way to gain entry, keep pace along the bustling thoroughfare.

Moving along the moat, the path leads to the tower at the far end. A left turn skirts the structure and winds around to the rear, where a restored drawbridge—though not the castle’s original entrance—spans the water and provides access inside.

In the 13th century, the first castle was built on the site, built on Roman walls. The main construction took place during the late 15th century by François II, the last Duke of Brittany, and was completed by his daughter, Anne of Brittany, who became Queen of France. They designed it as a fortified residence and a symbol of ducal power, blending military defenses with elegant Renaissance living quarters. During the 16th and 17th centuries, further buildings and refinements were added, solidifying its role as a royal residence.

The castle was the residence of the Dukes of Brittany from the 13th to the 16th centuries and later the Breton residence of the French Monarchy. It features a mix of defensive fortifications, characteristic of its medieval origins, and the more refined Renaissance residential palace, that was added in the 15th century.

The structure’s highlights include imposing walls, fortified towers, elaborate facades, intricate stonework and Renaissance loggias. These loggias were elegant, open-sided, roofed galleries or corridors, often with columns or arches, revived from Roman designs to serve as transitional indoor-outdoor spaces for social gatherings, public announcements or displaying art.

The castle served as the center of the historical province of Brittany until its separation in 1956. And beginning in the 1990s, the town of Nantes undertook a massive effort to restore and repair the site to its former glory as an emblem of the history of Nantes and Brittany. After 15 years of work and three years of closure, the castle reopened in 2007 and is now a popular tourist attraction.

The restored structure is home to the new Nantes History Museum, offering a journey through the city's history, from its origins to its role as a major port during the Age of Exploration. Installed in 32 of the castle rooms, the museum presents more than 1,150 objects to tell its stories.

Additionally, the museum provides an in-depth look at Nantes' complex history with the slave trade, a topic often not discussed in detail. The castle is also linked to a separate memorial nearby with engraved names of slave ships that departed from Nantes called the Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery.

Both the castle and the museum aim to offer a modern vision of the heritage by presenting the past, the present and the future of the city. Night-time illuminations of the castle continue to reinforce the revival of the site.

The courtyard, ramparts and moat garden are open to the public daily and are a place for relaxing, socializing and holding cultural events. Access into the museum is available Tuesday through Sunday (closed Mondays). Admittedly, I didn’t have the energy to visit the museum but that’s something I regret.

Tip / Learn from my mistake — go on in and explore that museum.

One of the most interesting features at the chateau was the massive ancient well in the courtyard. Serving as a vital water source in years past, the well is made of granite with a distinctive iron structure featuring 13 pulleys and animal sculptures on its seven-sided base. Each corner of the well's edge is sculpted with figures like lions, boars, dragons and monkeys.

The center courtyard is surrounded by several structures. The Grand Government served as the residence of the governors of Brittany, otherwise known as Castle of the Dukes of Brittany. La Conciergerie is currently the Caretaker's Lodge but first housed the lieutenant of the duke, then the castle's arsenal of weapons. Le Harnachement was used to store artillery but is now an exhibition center. The Small Government is the former home of the king of France during his visits to Nantes. All structures are surrounded by The Outer Walls, the walls of the castle.

Stroll the Lush Botanical Gardens of Jardin des Plantes

Any green space set within a city offers something special. It allows guests a few moments to slow down, unwind and reflect, whether it’s writing in a journal, picnicking, shooting photos or enjoying nature. And the Botanical Gardens of Jardin des Plantes are no different.

Founded as a royal medicinal garden in 1635 and known as "Jardin Remarquable" for its vast collection of plants, magnolias, camellias and greenhouses, the Botanical Gardens of the Jardin des Plantes’ main focus is research, conservation and education.

Perhaps most importantly, the gardens aim to promote biodiversity and protect plant ecosystems, creating active centers for botany. As such, both locations offer educational activities like guided tours, workshops, lectures and temporary exhibitions to raise public awareness about environmental issues.

With two locations, Nantes is not the only city to enjoy such gardens. The location in Paris is historically significant as France's oldest botanical garden spanning 400 years and is home to multiple museums alongside diverse flora.

Of the most significant sites at the gardens in Nantes are the greenhouses, including the historic Palmarium and modern Cactus Houses, that offer themed gardens, art installations and a peaceful urban escape near the city center and train station.

The Palmarium is the oldest and main highlight of the city's Jardin des Plantes, serving as its historic greenhouse dating from 1895. The greenhouse is filled with tropical plants, including the famous collections of camellias and magnolias, making it a must-see stop within the larger garden.

The structure itself was absolutely stunning, with a red brick base, domed glass ceiling and ornate iron work but unfortunately, the greenhouse was not open during my visit and the plants inside had seen better days.

Upon further research, it turns out that many of the structures have been undergoing significant renovations, including repairs from hail damage and modernization efforts. Perhaps, this is the reason for the closure.

Tip / Check to see what exhibits are open; you may not want to get your hopes up if you’re looking to explore the greenhouses.

The grounds are well-maintained and offer a beautiful place to walk, relax and enjoy nature - or my favorite past time, people watch. Many of the flowers and trees are labeled with species’ names and provide a cool respite to the busy city with benches and shaded areas, including an old greenhouse used as a cafe of sorts.

Over the years, the garden became one of France's significant botanical sites, growing and evolving with plants brought home from global voyages. The gardens are home to over 10,000 plant species, extensive camellia collections with over 600 varieties, national magnolia collections, lianas and impressive cacti and succulents in its refurbished winter garden.

One of my favorites was the enormous lilac bushes draping the main entry gates. They tumbled over ironwork and stone pillars like a cascade of purple silk, their blooms vivid and bursting with scent.

Another enchanting layer of the gardens is the art woven through the greenery — from quirky, larger-than-life figures by Nantes native Jean Jullien to charming mini greenhouses. These semi-permanent and permanent installations feel like surprises tucked into the landscape, turning strolls into playful discoveries.

Usually open daily during daylight hours but hours and special events change with the seasons and occasional renovations—check the official website before you go, since access can be restricted at times.

When I arrived at the gardens, every greenhouse stood shuttered, their glass panes hiding a trove of plants that looked oddly subdued—leaves drooped a little and the locked doors kept them out of reach. I’m hoping it was just a brief pause but even with the closures, the grounds remain a tranquil green haven. If you love plants and crave a calm corner of Nantes, it’s still well worth a visit.

Chase the Magic of a Traveling Carnival

If you’re lucky, a traveling fair might roll into town — not to be mistaken for the grandiose Carnaval de Nantes with its theatrical parades, themed floats, marching bands and confetti sieges. This little carnival, by contrast, delivers the comforts of nostalgia: whirling rides, sugary stalls, blinking lights and the irresistible hum of carousel music — all the classic delights packed into a compact, cozy spectacle.

Still, this fair was unique in its own right. Squeezed into the streets of Nantes, colorful games and wild rides beckoned visitors to partake.

Off my gluten‑free wagon — travel temptation winning — I grabbed a steaming beignet drenched in Nutella, an indulgence well worth the €4.

And believe me, it tasted every bit as incredible as it looked.

Wander the Cobblestone Streets of Nantes

Nantes Cathedral, or Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul, is a stunning Flamboyant Gothic cathedral famous for its incredibly long construction (1434-1891), impressive height and Renaissance tomb of François II and Margaret of Foix. In old town, with a distinctive white stone facade and impressive twin towers, the cathedral houses a nave reaching 123 feet high, taller than Notre Dame in Paris. It also features beautiful stained glass windows and a crypt, a museum on the cathedral’s history.

Only recently reopened in September 2025 after a devastating 2020 arson attack damaging its organ and roof, which were rebuilt in concrete, the cathedral is a resilient symbol of the city. So, during my recent visit, the cathedral was not open. Still, I enjoyed the incredible architecture from the exterior, along with the beautiful plaza facing its front. Today, entry is free to this cultural landmark; expect awe-inspiring architecture and a peaceful retreat from the city.

Nantes' old town, centered on the vibrant Bouffay district, is a charming medieval heart with narrow cobblestone streets, leaning half-timbered houses, lively squares, boutiques, bistros and creperies. And the inspiring white stone architecture is everywhere. Tuffeau stone is a soft, easily carved limestone from the Loire Valley and seen all over the city. It highlights the Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance styles that pair with contrasting granite structures, reflecting Nantes' rich royal history.

Nearby, Agent Paper Nantes is a French company specializing in creative, eco-friendly paper products like decorative gifts and cards that feature intricate designs, origami and customizable elements. The shop was super interesting and unique; it was tough to leave without something special but I knew anything made of paper wouldn’t survive the rest of my travels.

A place of pilgrimage, Église Sainte-Croix de Nantes, or Church of the Holy Cross, is a Catholic church and tourist spot recognized for its unique blend of architectural styles, featuring a Baroque facade, Flamboyant Gothic nave and Neo-Gothic elements.

Its distinctive 19th-century bell tower houses the town's heaviest bell and is adorned with trumpet-blowing angels, making it a historically rich landmark, especially in the connected Sainte-Croix Passage, a historic, covered passageway known for art exhibitions.

Peruse Passage Pommeraye

A historic, glass-covered shopping arcade built between 1840 and 1843, Passage Pommeraye connects two streets (rue Santeuil and rue de la Fosse) and is named after its developer, Louis Pommeraye. Almost hidden among the streets’ facade, the entrance might be missed entirely unless you know exactly what you’re looking for.

Uniquely built on a steep incline, the tiered layout is connected by a grand stair but before you reach the stair, the interior opens up slowly, deceiving you of its elegance and scale. At the end of a small corridor lined with decorative wall hung lights, a massive arcade opens before your eyes.

The arcade has three levels of shops and cafes and features the monumental staircase, alongside elaborate architecture, wrought-iron railings, renaissance-style sculptures and Corinthian columns.

The interior is uniquely distinct and over the top in so many ways. It’s moody, dependent upon the exterior sunlight, and accented in deep red wine and arched doorways. Even the tall slender mirrors appeared to be original, marked with time.

One of Europe’s most beautiful covered passages and a classic treasure of the city, the structure reached status as a Historic Monument in 1976. The ornate sculptures, historic significance and elegant shops only add to its charm.

Each level and angle offered a new perspective of the space entirely. And it was only then that I realized, I must check out some of the shops. So many of them were unique and I particularly enjoyed one with costume jewelry called Byblos.

Completed in 1843, the arcade was an innovative concept that introduced the idea of "window shopping" to Nantes, with luxurious, brightly lit spaces for shopping and leisure. Today, it continues to host a variety of upscale shops and is a popular spot for strolling and enjoying its beautiful design.

For dinner, I’d been craving La Mandale but fate — and a fully booked reservation list — had other plans.

Tip / Call ahead to reserve a table at La Mandale — and tell me what you think.

Pivoting, one block over is The Javanaise, a casual but highly recommended Indonesian restaurant known for its authentic cuisine and warm hospitality.

Warm hospitality was right, as I was recommended several of the specials by the owner. Lumpia are a popular snack or appetizer of Chinese origin, similar to spring rolls, while rendang, a labor intensive dish, is considered one of the world’s most delicious. It features a slow-cooked beef cooked in a complex blend of spices and coconut milk until it reduces and the meat is tender, coated in a rich caramelized sauce.

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