Morocco’s Atlas Mountains
A North African country bordering the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea, Morocco is one of the world’s most diverse countries. Distinguished by its Berber, Arabian and European cultural influences, it’s a land full of vibrant, colorful architecture, delicious cuisine and beautiful handmade goods. Morocco is also known for deliciously warm weather, stunning natural landscapes and tourist friendly cities such as Fes and Marrakesh.
Marrakesh is home to an ancient medina, a maze-like medieval quarter that offers entertainment in its Djemaa el-Fna square and countless souks (marketplaces) selling ceramics, jewelry and bronze lanterns. It’s a city that requires a bit of patience and persistence to explore but has its fair share of hidden gems. From Marrakesh, visitors can take a day trip into the Atlas Mountains, which extend some 1,500 miles across northwestern Africa, spanning Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia, separating the Atlantic and Mediterranean coastline from the Sahara Desert. Dotted with Berber villages and deep canyons and ravines, the mountains are home to local families who are self-sustaining, producing goods like homemade butter and fresh bread. Local argan oil and camel rides are also the norm throughout this region, and I might even suggest stopping roadside for an authentic handmade Moroccan rug (you’ll likely avoid the intense bartering found in the city).
With just over two weeks of travel set aside, Turkey was our first destination, beginning in Istanbul where East meets West. Next up was Cappadocia, a charming region located at the center of Turkey. There, we fell in love with its hot air balloons and fairy chimneys, and explored southwest Cappadocia’s Pigeon Valley, Selime Monastery, Ihara Valley and Underground City. After a few magical days in Cappadocia, we moved on to Morocco, where we uncovered Fes El Bali for its walled medina, medieval architecture, vibrant souks and old world charm, along with adventuring outside the medina walls to experience the true “Athens of Africa.” Our final stop landed us in Morocco’s “Red City” of Marrakesh and its rugged mountaious region for homemade butter, argan oil and camel rides in the Atlas Mountains.
Favorite places to visit in Morocco
Contents
Travel to the Atlas Mountains from Marrakesh
Arrive in Asni Village
Experience Traditional Moroccan Life at a Local’s Home
Learn All Things Argan Oil
Relax & Lunch Along Todra River
Introduce Yourself to a Few Ornery Camels
Travel to the Atlas Mountains from Marrakesh
Renowned for their imposing size, the Atlas Mountains extend over 1,500 miles across northwestern Africa, through Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia, separating the Sahara Desert from the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. A series of ranges with diverse terrain, climates and wildlife, the Atlas reach its highest peak of 13,671 feet at Toubkal, which lies within Morocco's Toubkal National Park.
The drive into the mountains was gentle and unassuming until we reached its base. Rolling hills covered with low green shrubs spread across the horizon, stacking one against the other, growing into sharp jagged peaks that cut the clear blue sky. The elevation was climbing quickly and it was noticeably tougher to breathe. Much appreciated, our guide pulled off to the the side of the road so that we could take in the scenery from a static position.
Moving into the Atlas Mountains from Marrakesh takes only an hour or so moving south, from an elevation of 1,500 feet in Marrakesh to more than doubling as we entered the small town of Asni at an altitude of 3,772 feet.
Arrive in Asni Village
Asni (Arabic: أسني) is a Berber village 30 miles from Marrakech at the foot of Toubkal summit. The town is connected to other small villages like Ikkiss and Imlil by tracks that can be accessed by bus several times a week. Though only a short distance from the bustling city of Marrakesh, Asni felt like it was other worldly.
The small square dwellings tucked into crevasses or poked up into the sky at the top of hills. They were built of clay and mud, blending in seamlessly to the reddish brown landscape. Their thatch roofs made from dried vegetation helped to create cool interiors in the hot sun.
Before I knew it, our guide pulled over and called for us to join him. We’d be wandering into the village, just the three of us. It felt deserted, almost like in the movies where zombies jump out of nowhere and eat you alive.
But soon enough, we bumped into a few girls making their way to school. They were very intrigued with us and wanted to stay and ask questions. The little one pulled out her phone and asked for my phone number straightaway.
The girls were also super excited to get a few photos taken and offered us some ripe apples from a local harvest.
Over the rough terrain, a small caravan of men and donkeys passed by. Each donkey was loaded with wooden crates, filled to the top with red apples. They disappeared through the hills just as quick as they had appeared.
It was time to move on with the days work and we’d be heading back into the village.
Experience Traditional Moroccan Life at a Local's Home
Our guide led us deeper into the village, moving slowly, as if in search of something or someone. It wasn’t long before I realized he was waiting for a local family to greet us and offer their hospitality.
Quietly, a short round woman poked her head out of a green door, giving our guide the okay to enter. The home was made of concrete blocks and cement. Makeshift flower pots sat outside each window and near the entry, along with a worn pair of tennis shoes.
Inside, a large room was attached to a small kitchen. Inside the kitchen a shelf was stacked with pots and pans and Tupperware filled with grains. The floors were made of concrete and it was cool inside the home.
Another woman joined the first and we were asked to wait as they prepared something to share. A few moments later, it was ready.
The women placed a large basket of freshly baked bread, olive oil and homemade butter onto the small table, along with a tray of hot mint tea and four small glasses.
Similar to a dense pita bread, Moroccan bread, or khobz, is round and flat, and tastes of grain and earth.
We watched patiently as our host poured hot sweet tea as they do, from above, one by one. Moroccan tea is traditionally poured from a height to slightly cool the tea and aerate it with little bubbles, giving the tea texture that characterizes each sip.
A local delicacy, walnuts, were also placed on the table to snack on. Quietly, our guide informed us that the women were likely serving us all the food they had in the home. I felt guilty leaving anything to waste and wished I had something more to offer than a tip.
At first, we didn’t know where to begin but the women encouraged us, along with our guide, to dig in. We were expected to eat everything placed in front of us. We began to rip off pieces of bread, dipping them into the oil and butter, alternating.
As we sat and tasted, we chatted about life in the remote area. The women were sweet, soft spoken and shy. I asked to use the restroom, which they seemed a little embarrassed of. It was then that I realized they didn’t have running water or electricity.
Learn All Things Argan Oil
About an hour and a half east, lies Afous Argan Ourika, a local shop dedicated to providing 100% organic argan oil handcrafted by skilled artisans using ancient traditions. Often referred to as “Moroccan liquid gold,” argan oil has been used for centuries by Moroccan women to nourish and protect their skin and hair. The precious oil is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamins, making it a versatile and effective beauty elixir.
Upon entering the shop, several women sat working tirelessly. Making argan oil is a labor intensive and time consuming process, as it takes about 88 pounds of dried fruit to produce one liter of oil. The oil can be used for cosmetics, as well as food. Food argan oil is sweet and nutty and often eaten with bread.
Argan oil is made by pressing kernels from the fruit of the argan tree indigenous to Morocco and southwestern Algeria. First, the fruit is harvested from the ground, usually by hand. It is then dried by spreading it out in the open air. The hard nuts are then manually cracked between two stones to reveal the kernels. The kernels are then cold pressed to extract the oil without heat or chemicals. And finally the unfiltered oil is poured into vessels and decanted.
As we watched the women working, it was hard to tell if they were just tired or simply not enjoying themselves. The work looked painfully grueling and exhaustive. After observing the process, we were given a few varieties to taste, along with some bread for dipping.
The taste was nutty and light, something I enjoyed. And from there, we moved on to the rest of the shop. Lined with bins and baskets and shelving, every square inch was covered with health and beauty products.
There was argan oil meant for beauty routines, hair, nails and skin, soaps, teas, herbs, incense, spices, natural makeups and so much more.
The women were kind and helpful, allowing us to sample several products, guiding us through the space, highlighting certain products.
There was so much variety and a wide range of colorful items with scents that were undeniable, especially the teas and spices.
Slightly overwhelmed, we picked up a few small items and made our way out of the shop, thanking the women for their guidance.
Relax & Lunch Along Todra River
Ready for some sustenance, our next stop was Restaurant La Vallée Ourika along the Todra River. Crossing over the river and down to the other side of the bank, we landed in a few plastic chairs along the rocky riverside.
The Todgha Gorges are a series of limestone river canyons, or wadi, in the eastern part of the High Atlas Mountains near the town of Tinerhir. Both the Todgha, or Todra River, and the neighboring Dadès River are responsible for carving out deep cliff-sided canyons through the mountains. The height of the canyon walls varies but in some places can reach 1,312 feet high.
At our location, the river was calm and peaceful. The sun was out and we were happy to rest. As we settled in, a menu was brought to us offering a modest selection of small entrees, main dishes and desserts.
While waiting, we were served a dish of pickled vegetables and fresh Moroccan bread, then ordered french fries, a chopped vegetable salad and Berber tagine.
Filled with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, olives and chicken, the dish was exactly what we needed.
Introduce Yourself to a Few Ornery Camels
On our way back toward Marrakesh, our guide suggested we stop to meet up with a few camels. Perhaps, they’d be kind enough to let us ride.
Camels in Morocco are known as dromedaries – camels with a single hump. They are very gentle creatures that are highly intelligent and extremely patient with the exception being the leaders of the herd, who can become aggressive if the herd is in danger.
We approached the camels slowly, feeling them out and observing before any decisions were made. Honestly, just getting up close to such creatures was enough for me and I wanted to make sure I respected their space and energy.
After feeling out the creatures, it was suggested that I hop on the back of one and go for a ride. A little timid, I agreed.
The gentleman guided the tall camel into a kneeling position. Ungracefully, it knelt down into the dirt and waited for me to swing my leg over top.
Suddenly, he pushed upward, unexpectedly swinging me forward. I grabbed on tight because I thought I was being flung over its head but after the initial scare, we stood. Taller than imagined, just a few moments atop the camel were all I needed, so I called to return back to the earth.
From there, our guide drove us back into Marrakesh, just in time to rest up for the evenings adventures.
The Atlas Mountains extend some 1,500 miles across northwestern Africa and are dotted with Berber villages and deep canyons and ravines, home to local families who are self-sustaining, producing goods like homemade butter and fresh bread. From Marrakesh, the mountains can be reached within an hour.