Peru’s White City of Arequipa
Best things to do in Arequipa: uncover delicious Arequipeño cuisine, vibrant cultural heritage, stunning colonial architecture & buildings made of white volcanic stone with this travel guide.
Peru is a treasure trove of wonders: towering Inca ruins like Machu Picchu, a cuisine that thrills — from bright, citrusy ceviche to the frothy kick of a pisco sour — and landscapes that shift dramatically from the jagged Andes to the lush Amazon and the enigmatic Nazca Lines. Its culture blooms in colorful textiles and handcrafted goods, and its staggering biodiversity ranks it among the most life-rich countries on Earth.
Arequipa, Peru’s second-largest city and one of its most underrated gems, captured my heart in a matter of days. Known as the “White City” for its ornate baroque buildings carved from sillar, a pale volcanic stone, Arequipa is cradled beneath the watchful silhouettes of Misti, Chachani and Pichu Pichu. Those volcanoes loom like guardians over a city that’s as dramatic as its setting.
But it’s not just the scenery. Arequipa feels instantly inviting — streets alive with music, plates that sing with spice, cozy antique shops and a historic center that buzzes with color and history. It’s a place where the landscape and the local warmth make you want to stay.
My two-week Peruvian adventure began on a bright note: 24 hours in Lima with my Peruvian friend, the perfect launchpad for the journey ahead.
From there, we whisked off to Paracas, where jagged rock islands rise from turquoise waters and arid, sunbaked desert meets dramatic coastline. Wildlife, wind-carved formations and whispers of ancient history made every view feel cinematic.
Next was Huacachina — a tiny oasis tucked among towering dunes. We tore across the sand in a roaring dune buggy, watched the light melt into gold at a lakeside sunset and even squeezed in a cozy local winery visit that felt unexpectedly magical.
Then came the “White City,” Arequipa, with its elegant colonial facades, mouthwatering Arequipeño dishes and a lively cultural pulse that invited long, wandering strolls.
From Arequipa, I set off for a day in Colca Canyon, hiking along terraces hewn by pre-Incan hands and holding my breath as giant Andean condors soared overhead — an awe-inspiring reminder of how vast and wild this country can be.
We finished in Cusco, the former heart of the Inca Empire: a white-knuckle, nearly-too-much Rainbow Mountain moment, a soulful tour through the Sacred Valley and finally the pilgrimage to Machu Picchu — an absolutely unforgettable dream realized.
Truthfully, I fell head over heels for Peru — every surprise from its vibrant markets and intoxicating street food to the warm-hearted people, ancient cultures woven into modern life and landscapes that stole my breath at every turn made me fall in love all over again.
What’s Inside | Roadmap
Get There | Arrive in Arequipa
Walk It Off | Join a free walking tour; book with Free Walking Tour Arequipa
Unwind | Enjoy an evening in the most beautiful plaza in South America
Indulge & Browse | Grab a slice at Las Gringas Pizza & hunt for antiques at Alvaro Antiques; don’t miss all things chocolate at Chaqchao Chocolates
Get Up Close & Personal | Meet fluffy friends & hand-feed them up close at Mundo Alpaca
Get Lost | Wander through the winding passages of Santa Catalina Monastery
Admire | Delight in the charm of Plaza de Armas
Gaze | Watch the sunset paint the sky from Yanahuara Plaza
Eat | Gorge on vegan sushi at El Buda Profano
Read | If you’re looking for a day trip from Arequipa to Colca Canyon, check out Hiking Peru's Epic Colca Canyon
Unmissable Experiences in the White City
Arequipa’s sun-drenched white volcanic stone buildings glow against a backdrop of snow-capped Misti, creating a city where colonial charm meets Andean grandeur. Wander its lively markets and cobblestone streets to taste spicy rocoto relleno, sip strong coffee and feel the effortless blend of Spanish and indigenous cultures.
Arrive in Arequipa
After a gruelling 12-hour overnight bus from Huacachina (via Ica), Esau and I decided to go our separate ways for a few days. He hopped a bus to his hometown of Ilo while I took a taxi to my hostel, Maycawasi, tucked in the heart of Arequipa. I’d nabbed a bed in a five-person dorm for just $7 USD a night.
Maycawasi turned out to be a lovely little base — only two blocks from the city center and full of helpful staff who booked tours, offered city tips and even held my luggage while I headed out to explore Colca Canyon. The front door was secure, though the rooms lacked individual lockers, so keep that in mind. The place was cozy: decent WiFi, reliably hot showers and a small kitchen (no fridge or microwave). Best of all was the rooftop patio, where each morning a simple, welcoming breakfast of tea or coffee, bread and fruit set a pleasant tone for the day.
Tip | Since closed — Maycawasi used to be a lovely budget pick but now I’d lean toward something with a little more privacy. Treat yourself and stay in the Historic Centre — the nearer you are to the Plaza de Armas, the more magical your visit will feel.
Try one of these instead: qema Arequipa, Casa Arequipa Hotel, CIRQA - Relais & Châteaux or La Hostería Boutique Hotel.
Join a Free Walking Tour
A free walking tour in the afternoon gave me the perfect excuse to hunt down a local specialty. My Peruvian friend, Esau, insisted I try Arequipa’s rocoto relleno. Imagine a bright red pepper packed with savory ground beef, onion, garlic, egg and cheese, plated with a side of potato. It was deliciously hearty — heavier than the lighter meals I'd been favoring, so not my top pick, but absolutely worth tasting when you're in town.
With my appetite satisfied, I wandered over to Las Gringas, a popular pizza spot that also serves as the meeting point for the walking tour. Tours run twice daily at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. and that day about 30 of us had gathered. After signing in, we went upstairs to try a complimentary cup of chocolate tea from Chaqchao, the town’s famous chocolate shop — a sweet little prelude to the walk.
The free walking tour lasted two hours and wandered through the city’s most charming corners. Our guide’s enthusiasm for Arequipa was contagious — he shared rich stories about the city’s history and its role in Peru and across South America.
We wandered through Plaza de Armas, explored Fundo El Fierro’s artisan market, visited Alpaca World, admired Plaza San Francisco and discovered many other lovely spots. With such a big group, it was hard to stop for photos and really take in each space but the tour gave me a great sense of where to return later with a camera.
Fundo El Fierro — “Iron Ranch” — carries a surprisingly colorful past. Once a girls’ school and later a women’s prison, its stone walls now hum with a very different kind of life: the city’s first official handicrafts marketplace, where old stories meet bright new handiwork.
When the tour wrapped, a sudden downpour sent me into a cozy coffee shop where I sipped a steaming hot chocolate and watched the rain drum on the windows. Arequipa turns out to be surprisingly soggy compared with the coastal towns I’d visited — so do yourself a favor and carry a raincoat and umbrella. The showers here arrive without warning.
Tip | Pack a light rain jacket and an umbrella for Arequipa — showers are most likely between December and March, with February usually the wettest month.
Enjoy an Evening in the Most Beautiful Plaza in South America
Twilight drapes the Plaza de Armas in a soft amber glow as locals and travelers gather for dinner beneath centuries-old arcades. The scent of street food mingles with the quiet history of the square — a civic heart where parades, protests and celebrations have shaped the city’s story. Sitting at a small table, fork paused between bites, you feel part of a tradition that’s alive: the plaza’s past and present meeting over shared plates and easy conversation.
On my way back to my stay, I slipped into a restaurant overlooking the main plaza, its balcony framing the square as rain turned the cobbles to gold. They first handed me a glossy, touristy menu with high prices but when I hesitated, they smiled and produced a different "menu" — simple, honest dishes at much kinder prices.
Tip | Locals in Peru often have a different — much cheaper — menu to order from. Ask to see if it’s available when you stop for a bite.
A few local musicians drifted from table to table, collecting tips with easy smiles. I started with an avocado salad, followed by lomo saltado and a refreshing pineapple smoothie — delicious, even if a creeping stomach bug had dulled my appetite.
Back at the hostel, I packed a small overnight bag for my two-day, one-night trip to Colca Canyon, a tour I’d booked through the hostel for 90 soles (about $30 USD). It included transportation, a night in the tiny town of Chivay, breakfast and a local guide.
Grab a Slice at Las Gringas Pizza & Hunt for Antiques at Alvaro Antiques
My trip to Colca Canyon left me feeling far from my usual spark — a queasy stomach and the double whammy of motion and altitude sickness had me low. Luckily, the pharmacy came to the rescue and a warm cup of coca tea worked its quiet magic. A traditional Peruvian remedy, coca leaves are everywhere here; they give a gentle lift not unlike coffee. Small caveat: because the leaves are from the same plant used to make cocaine, the tea can trigger a positive result on certain drug tests.
Tip | Feeling queasy on those high altitude roads? Steep yourself a soothing cup of coca-leaf tea and let its warmth settle your stomach.
Even under the weather, hunger wins. I walked over to Las Gringas, a beloved local spot where pizzas get a Peruvian twist — quinoa-flour and purple-corn crusts topped with regional ingredients. Comfort food with a local heart felt exactly right.
Tip | To avoid tummy issues, don’t drink tap water. Tap water in Peru isn’t safe to drink — even in big cities like Lima and Cusco. To avoid parasites, bacteria and other contaminants, stick to bottled water, boiled water or water from a reliable filter. Be cautious with cocktails and smoothies made using local water or ice and with fruits, vegetables and many street foods that may have been washed in unsafe water.
I was delighted — I ordered their gluten-free cheese pizza and an Infusion maracuyá tea, and every bite and sip was pure bliss.
Near the plaza’s entrance, sits Alvaro Antiques, a charming antique market brimming with fascinating finds. I wandered slowly through the aisles and couldn't resist the handmade pillows and cozy blankets — each piece more tempting than the last.
Think, sun-warmed colonial wooden chests, hand-painted Talavera tiles and delicate silver filigree from nearby Andean towns that whisper stories of Arequipa’s Spanish and indigenous pasts. You might also uncover woven alpaca textiles, antique Catholic shrines and faded lithographs of volcanoes that feel like treasure maps to another era.
Tucked between the antique market and the pizzeria is a little chocolate shop called Chaqchao. It’s the same place that served chocolate tea on the walking tour and they’re equally beloved for their rich hot chocolate. Head downstairs and you’ll discover even more delightful treats and unique chocolate goods.
Tip | Dive into a chocolate-making class here! Learn to craft the rich, spiced chocolate drink once savored by Aztec kings, then hand-mold your very own chocolate bar to take home. The session ends with a guided tasting — can you tell gourmet from supermarket?
Meet Fluffy Friends & Hand-Feed Them Up Close at Mundo Alpaca
That afternoon, my Peruvian friend would arrive back in Arequipa from his hometown of Ilo, so I decided to spend the morning wandering the city and revisiting the highlights from my walking tour. But first: breakfast. I stopped at a delightful little spot just north of the main plaza, Huayruro Peruvian Café (temporarily closed). The dirty chai was warm and comforting and the granola with yogurt and a bright selection of tropical fruits felt like sunshine on a plate.
Tip | Huayruro Peruvian Café is temporarily closed, so try these cafes instead: Ristretto - Arequipa, Mi Kcao Chocolates y Cafe Rooftop, Lautrec Cafe, Lienzo Café, MistiCoffee and Eco Brunch.
Fueled by caffeine and a satisfied appetite, it was time to wander back to Alpaca World (Mundo Alpaca). Alpaca World celebrates the richness of Peruvian and Andean textile traditions while offering a warm, up‑close encounter with the animals at the heart of that craft.
Nestled in town, the property is part of Mundo Alpaca — a social enterprise dedicated to preserving native camelid breeds, supporting local weavers and promoting sustainable fiber production. Mundo Alpaca manages breeding and care programs for many alpacas and llamas, processes their fleece and works with artisans to turn that wool into finely crafted garments and textiles sold across the region.
Past the lovely shop, a small enclosure hides a dozen fluffy alpacas and llamas — and this visit, I got to linger. Here, I fed the animals tender greens and watched their curious snuffles up close, a peaceful contrast to the bustle of the walking tour. These charming creatures are endlessly photogenic and affectionately bold — I couldn’t get enough of them.
Tip | They love to investigate whatever’s in your hands, so tuck away loose items and be careful with your fingers when offering treats. Alpacas and llamas are also notoriously tough to photograph, so exercise patience.
Beyond the retail shop and enclosure, Alpaca World offers a delightful educational exhibit where you discover the magic behind their fleece — from the lovely fibers they produce to the dyeing techniques and craftsmanship that turn wool into wearable art.
Freshly shorn alpaca fleece — soft as clouds and ranging from creamy ivory to deep chocolate — piled into overflowing bins, each heap a promise of something warm and beautiful to come. In Peru, that fleece begins a careful, hands-on journey.
First, the animals are shorn by skilled herders during a single annual shearing season; alpacas and llamas are gently clipped to keep the fibers healthy and the animals comfortable. The raw fiber is sorted by grade and color, separating the finest, downy undercoat from coarser guard hairs. Next, the fleece is washed in warm water to remove dust, lanolin and impurities, then dried in the sun or low heat.
When a uniform base is needed, fibers may be blended and carded to align the strands. Natural mineral dyes — earthy cochineal reds, indigo blues and ochres drawn from local clays and plants — are prepared and used to color the yarns. The dyed fibers are rinsed and dried until the colors settle into vivid, lasting hues.
Know | Cochineal is a vivid crimson dye made from the dried, crushed bodies of the female Dactylopius coccus insect — a tiny, nature-spun pigment that has colored textiles and cosmetics for centuries.
Spinning follows: women and men transfer fibers onto spindles or spinning wheels, twisting them into smooth, resilient yarn. That yarn is wound into skeins (oblong, twisted coils) and readied for the loom. Finally, skilled weavers — often women who learned their craft from elders — take those skeins to the backstrap loom, an ingenious pre-Inca technique. One end of the loom is tied to a stationary post; the other is fastened to a strap around the weaver’s back. By leaning forward and back they control tension, weaving intricate geometric patterns, symbolic motifs and rich textures passed down through generations.
The result is a tapestry of living tradition: luxuriously soft alpaca and llama wool transformed by careful, sustainable steps — shearing, sorting, washing, dyeing with natural minerals, spinning and backstrap weaving — into garments and textiles that hold both color and story.
In the retail shop, you’ll find some of these treasures. Soft alpaca sweaters, handwoven ponchos, and irresistibly plush scarves in a rainbow of natural dyes — each piece crafted with centuries-old Andean techniques. You’ll also find cozy hats, delicate embroidered shawls and small artisanal home goods that make perfect travel keepsakes.
In the high Andes, traditional weaving is more than craft — it’s a thread of identity, woven alongside alpaca herding and the warm cadence of Quechua. Since Quechua began as an oral tongue, weaving became a language of its own: a way to whisper feelings about the natural world, to tell stories and to keep histories safe in cloth. Today, these textiles still mark wealth and take center stage in both civic and religious rites. From the spin of a single yarn to the symbols, colors and techniques chosen, every stitch reveals something intimate about the weaver and the place she calls home.
Wander Through the Winding Passages of Santa Catalina Monastery
Exploring the nooks and crannies of the Santa Catalina Monastery is, without a doubt, one of the greatest charms of Arequipa. Founded in 1579, this monastery served as a cloister for Dominican nuns from the 16th to the 18th centuries and still houses a small community of religious women who preserve a contemplative way of life. Its inner streets, painted in vivid shades of periwinkle, red and ochre, resemble miniature towns: cloisters, flower-filled courtyards, small plazas and rooms that hold centuries of stories in every stone.
Tip | If hunger strikes first, pop over to nearby Dimas Restaurant for a delicious bite or small treat to take away.
The convent remained closed to the public until 1970, when a lack of funds for its upkeep made reopening it as a cultural heritage site necessary. Today, you can walk through rooms decorated with colonial tiles, explore the kitchen, the ritual bath and the prioress’s cell and admire altarpieces and paintings from the viceroyalty period. Don’t miss the view from the tower, which offers a unique panorama of Arequipa’s white architecture and the surrounding volcanoes.
The grounds of Santa Catalina are utterly captivating and surprisingly vast. Spread across about five acres, the complex unfolds like a miniature city of courtyards, narrow streets, covered galleries, private chapels and nun’s cells — complete with a historic gutter system that once brought fresh water into the cloister.
Entering the monastery meant a lifelong commitment; the women who joined would not leave the enclosure. To give them light and air within those vows, architects incorporated generous open-air plazas, sunlit windows and airy corridors throughout the layout. The result is a bright, layered place of domestic and devotional life — rooms and passageways stacked and interwoven over multiple levels.
It’s easy to lose your sense of direction here and you should plan on spending at least a couple of hours wandering. I loved peeking into hidden rooms, photographing the tiny, charming details and admiring remarkably well-preserved furniture that makes the past feel very close.
Tip | Give yourself extra time to explore — the best discoveries happen when you allow yourself to get lost.
Another plus — the monastery brims with life: vibrant plants, delicate flowers and enormous cacti bask in the sun, forming a small oasis within ancient walls. I had never seen such giant succulents; every pot and flowerbed offered an explosion of colors and textures that looked like something out of a painting. I wandered among them in fascination as they guided me further into the maze.
Most of all, a stroll through Santa Catalina is an intimate immersion into the city’s religious and everyday history — and should not be missed.
Delight in the Charm of Plaza de Armas
Dubbed the most beautiful square in all of South America, Plaza de Armas is a graceful stage of white stone and sky. Its colonial buildings — carved from the local sillar volcanic rock — glow a soft, pale hue that earned the city its elegant nickname, “The White City.” Towering palms punctuate the plaza’s edges, their fronds swaying above benches where locals and visitors linger.
The square truly feels like the city’s living room: framed by the ornate façade of the Cathedral, the archways of municipal buildings and elegant colonial arcades, it hums with life from morning through evening. Cafés spill out onto the paved walkways, offering coffee and conversation while musicians and street vendors add to the lively scene. On clear days, the snow-capped silhouette of El Misti looms in the distance, a dramatic backdrop that makes every photo look postcard-perfect. Whether you’re people-watching, enjoying a pastry or admiring the hand-carved balconies and ironwork, Plaza de Armas is a must-see centerpiece of Arequipa’s charm.
Just beyond the plaza stands the Church of the Company of Jesus, a jewel of Baroque Mestizo style with a lace-like façade hewn from pale sillar stone and a dazzling main altar layered in gold leaf. Inside the San Ignacio Chapel and the adjoining claustros, unexpected jungle-themed murals bring a playful, verdant spirit to the sacred space — while the surrounding cloister now hums with life as a charming hub of shops and cafés.
Nearby, the Cloisters of La Compañía unfold like a secret chapter of Arequipa’s history. This 17th-century Jesuit gem — carved from glowing sillar (volcanic stone) in the distinctive Andean Baroque or Baroque Mestizo style — stands a short stroll from the Plaza de Armas and is a UNESCO-recognized treasure. Every surface is a conversation between worlds: European Baroque motifs woven with indigenous designs, reliefs of Amazonian plants and animals and Christian figures rendered with astonishing delicacy. The result is ornate, surprising and quietly theatrical.
The cloisters themselves are arranged on two levels around peaceful patios. Wandering those shaded walkways feels like stepping into a painting — sunlight freckling the stone, the scent of coffee and local pastries drifting up from nearby cafes. Small artisan shops and boutiques nestle in the arcades, offering textiles, ceramics and souvenirs perfect for finding something uniquely Arequipeño.
We stumbled into the central open-air square during the free walking tour — an unplanned, very happy discovery. In one corner, a staircase climbs to the second level; from the balustrade you get a lovely bird’s-eye view of the cloistered gardens and the carved façades and a few intimate restaurants and bars sit up there if you want a drink with your view. It’s an especially magical spot for photos: soft light, intricate shadow play and endless details to admire.
Tip | Don’t miss this charming courtyard. It’s ideal for photography, a relaxed bite or coffee and to appreciate the breathtaking blend of cultures etched in stone.
Watch the Sunset Paint the Sky From Yanahuara Plaza
Some time later, my Peruvian friend returned to Arequipa and, barely pausing to drop his bag, we hurried toward Yanahuara. Nestled on a gentle ridge above the city, Yanahuara is a charming neighborhood of whitewashed houses, narrow cobblestone lanes and ornate colonial arches — and it’s only about a thirty-minutes from the historic center.
By the time we arrived, the sun was slipping low and the whole valley turned blues and purples: the silhouette of El Misti burned pink against the sky, clay rooftops glowed and smoke from evening kitchens curled up from the neighborhoods below. From the famous viewpoint beside the stone balustrades, you can drink in sweeping panoramas of Arequipa’s tiled roofs, church domes and distant volcanoes while local vendors sell empanadas and steaming cups of coffee — a quietly perfect place to watch the city come alive at sunset.
The views were spectacular, even if the volcanoes played a coy game of hide-and-seek. I kept imagining how dramatic the panorama would be from a higher perch or on a crystal-clear day — you’d really see the landscape unfold. But for me, the showstopper was the giant palms silhouetted against the pink sky, like graceful guards framing a perfect moment.
Browse the plaza stalls for a sweet treat — we couldn’t resist a creamy arroz con leche, then hailed a taxi and wound our way back to downtown Arequipa.
Gorge on Vegan Sushi at El Buda Profano
For dinner, treat yourself to the surprisingly delightful vegan sushi at El Buda Profano (temporarily closed). At first, the idea of vegan sushi sounded a little odd but the glowing reviews won me over — and I’m so glad they did. El Buda Profano ended up being one of my favorite meals of the trip: a touch salty at times but utterly delicious and a revelation in how intensely flavorful vegetables can be.
The menu has plenty of à la carte choices alongside tempting combos. We went for the two-person set — about 50 soles (under $20 USD) — and it was a feast: two salads, six gyoza, four gunkanmaki, five Buda maki, five Selva maki, five futomaki verde and two little bowls of miso soup. They also serve freshly made juices daily, which were the perfect refreshing finish.
Tip | El Buda Profano is sadly closed for now but try one of these spots instead: Cirqa (Parador), MASH Restaurante, Epicúreo Restaurante or Decantador.
From Arequipa, I set off on a breathtaking day trip into the vast, dramatic Colca Canyon, then hopped a budget-friendly flight to Cusco for just $50 USD. From there, I trekked the slushy slopes of Rainbow Mountain, explored the misty Andean highlands and finally made the unforgettable pilgrimage to Machu Picchu.