Fushimi Inari Taisha’s 10 Thousand Torii Gates

Celebrated for stunning spring time cherry blossoms, reverent tea ceremonies, impressive sumo wrestlers and high speed bullet trains, Japan is naturally a wonder. It’s a land that is fiercely homogeneous, not afraid to preserve its rich culture and history at any cost, once exercising a strict isolationist policy called sakoku, closing its doors from the 1630s until 1853. Japan is also a challenging country to maneuver, though worth every step. It’s composed of over 6,000 islands and a landscape that’s nearly 75% mountainous. Nevertheless, this East Asian island is one of the most densely populated so be sure to escape the crowds and unwind in some of the more remote destinations like Fushimi Inari Shine.

A short 10 minute train ride from Kyoto, Fushimi Inari Taisha is the head shrine of the deity Inari Ōkami, the spirit of foxes, fertility, rice, tea, sake, agriculture, industry, general prosperity and worldly success. It’s also one of the principal spirits of Shinto. Officially, 51.8% of Japan adheres to Shinto beliefs but around 80% actively participate in its rituals. An optimistic faith, Shinto believes people are fundamentally good and evil is caused by bad spirits. Therefore, most Shinto rituals help keep away evil spirits with prayers, purification and offerings to the kami, or deity.

A spiritual culture, the Japanese find a sense of identity based on one’s social group or place of birth. They’re polite and humble when communicating and take a pragmatic approach to life but even so, many of the rules in Japan were lost on me. Travel-wise, Tokyo, the largest metropolitan in the world, was my first destination with a day trip into the rainy forests of Nikkō for some much needed mountain worship. Then, I moved on to the charming temples, beautiful gardens and mysterious geisha of Kyoto with visits to explore thousands of torii gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine, wander the emerald green bamboo forests of Arashiyama and admire the wild and curious deer of Nara. All in all, Japan was a dream.

Favorite places to visit in Japan

Contents

• Arrive at Fushimi Inari Shrine

• Reach Romon Gate & Honden (Main Hall)

• Set Eyes on Senbon Torii

• Spot Inari Foxes

• Conquer Ichinomine

• Pray at Gozendani Hohaisho

• Offer Up at Okusha Hohaisho

• Devour Pork Dumplings

• Sip on a Hot Beverage at Vermillion Espresso Bar

Arrive at Fushimi Inari Shrine

Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社, Fushimi Inari Taisha) is a Shinto shrine located in southern Kyoto. The most important of several thousand shrines dedicated to Inari, Fushimi Inari has ancient origins predating the capital’s move to Kyoto in 794. In plan, it sits at the base of a mountain also called Inari rising 764 feet above sea level and is famous for its thousands of vermillion colored torii gates and steep trails leading to countless smaller shrines hidden within the forest. In total, the trails span two and a half miles and take about two or three hours to traverse.

From my hostel in Kyoto, Kyoto Morris Hostel, I jumped on the train toward Fushimi Inari Shrine a few short miles away. Upon reaching JR Inari Station, I unloaded with the rest of the crowd and made my way to the entrance. Leading up to the large red gates that resemble a portal into another world were countless cafes and shops lining the otherwise inconspicuous street. The sweet shops sell tsujiura senbei (辻占煎餅), a form of fortune cookie dating back to at least the 19th century, believed by some to be the origin of the American fortune cookie.

Just below the main entrance on the lefthand side are a handful of food stalls selling all kinds of treats, sweets and fried food. A fairly rigorous hike if you’re planning to complete the full loop, I’d recommend grabbing a bite to eat before heading into the temple grounds.

To enter, it’s free of charge and just as I did, a ceremony of sorts was taking place in the reception area. Large groups of people were gathered around watching patiently as women dressed in kimonos finished their performance. I did notice, however, those in the crowd were asked not to take any photos.

The brightly colored torii gates are one of the most iconic images of Japan and Shinto shrines are thought to be home of the Shinto gods, so the gates appear at their entrances. Passing through a torii gate represents passing from the everyday world to the sacred, entering the realm of the gods.

Vermillion, the famously rich brick orange color of the torii gates conjures more than meets the eye. The color evokes a strong sense of spirituality for the Japanese people. Called shuiro in Japanese, the color represents dawn, light or the sun and conveys a sense of brightness and hope. It’s also associated with a powerful belief in the soul of Inari Ōkami or Ō-Inari, one of the main kami of Shinto.

Near the entrance, I spotted mini vermillion torii gates for sale which are meant to be left as offerings once you write your prayers onto them.

Reach Romon Gate & Honden (Main Hall)

At the shrine’s entrance stands the Romon Gate, donated in 1589 by the famous leader Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a Japanese samurai considered the second "Great Unifier" of Japan. Behind the gate stands the shrine’s main hall (honden) where visitors are encouraged to pay respect to the residing deities by making a small offering. Originally built on Inariyama Hill in 711, the main hall was moved to the base of the mountain in 816 to protect it from earthquakes. Sadly, during the Onin Rebellion in 1468 the buildings and towers in the area were burned, with the main shrine rebuilt in 1499.

Once through the Romon Gate and before entering the sacred space, visitors may wash their hands and cleanse themselves in dragon fountains. Continuing, five deities are enshrined together inside the honden. It’s also where visitors can draw an omikuji, or slip of paper telling one’s fortune.

In a style called Uchikoshi Nagashi-zukuri, the main building and shrine are large and their designs depict a cheerful, elegant style from the Azuchi-Momoyama period in the late 16th century including konpukurin (gold edged hanging features) with kegyo roof plaques, tarukibana (metal decorations covering the points of the wooden eaves) and kaerumata (split bottom beams) attached to the roof of the shrine. The main shrine building is also designated an Important Cultural Asset.

Opposite the honden, is the haiden or offering hall. Visitors can come here to pray or make offerings of bags of rice, sake, wine, beer or other goods.

Set Eyes on Senbon Torii

Near the rear of the shrine’s main grounds is the entrance to the torii gate-covered hiking trail, beginning with two dense parallel rows of gates called senbon torii, literally meaning “thousands of torii gates.” Though Fushimi Inari Shrine was founded in 711 by the Hata family, over 80 years before Kyoto became the capital, it has grown in size and importance over time. During the Edo period (1603-1868) and early on in the temple’s construction, worshippers began to donate money to ensure their wishes were granted by gaining good favor with the kami.

To honor the donations, a torii gate would be built with their name inscribed on it, painted with the same Inari-nuri technique as the main buildings. Soon enough, hundreds of people wanted the same good fortune arriving at the shrine to buy their own torii gate and then thousands, eventually creating the tunnel of gates you see today. The actual number of gates is disputed, with some estimating 10,000 and others as many as 30,000.

Admittedly, the beginning of the hike is a bit daunting. It’s packed full of visitors stopping along the path to get their photos taken but if you stick to the course, eventually they will fade away leaving everything quiet and still. The trail itself leads up and back down the mountain in a loop lasting a few hours depending on speed and how often you stop to admire the shrines. I’ll also note that I must’ve been so hypnotized by the endless torii gates that I didn’t get many images of the shrines or other structures themselves. So, though, I’ll describe different stopping points, I often don’t have a photo representing the area itself.

Eerie and damp, the trails felt mysterious. The day was gloomy and soggy but it made for a dark and mystical mood, as long as you don’t mind getting a little wet. Every so often after hiking a set of steep steps, the gates would clear allowing for space to rest. It’s in these areas where you might find water or ice cream for sale, souvenirs or the rare restroom.

Spot Inari Foxes

Throughout the shrine there are hundreds of carved stone foxes, a sacred animal to the Japanese. Thought to be messengers for the Inari, they are representatives of the gods here on Earth. Frequently, you’ll see these foxes with objects in their mouths, each one representing something significant to the gods. Examples include scrolls meant to bring about wisdom, keys giving foxes the ability to unlock rice granaries to bring about nourishment, bamboo plants representing a plentiful harvest or orbs symbolizing spiritual power.

Along the hiking path is the Inner Shrine, one dedicated to Inari by the Hata clan in the 8th century. Those who follow Shinto come here to worship and complete a set of rituals as they pray. As the ritual goes, first, throw a coin into the box in front of the shrine and ring the suzu. Suzu are round, hollow Japanese Shinto bells similar to jingle bells in shape, though creating a coarse, rolling sound. These bells are thought to call the kami and fight off evil. Next, bow twice, quietly say a prayer, clap your hands twice and bow deeply once again.

About halfway up the mountain, when the torii gates begin to lose their density, visitors reach the Yotsutsuji intersection. If the weather is clear, scenic views over Kyoto can be enjoyed and it’s here that the trail splits off into a circular route to the summit. Many hikers only venture this far and turn back to descend but I opted to continue onward for the full experience.

Once high enough, the crowds began to thin even further and the forest became completely silent. The only sounds were my footsteps against the stone steps and the drops of rain hitting the leaves of the trees. Peaceful but often dark and with the occasional giant spider to steer clear of, this stretch was my favorite part of the hike. It was a calm moment to myself.

And though I only remember seeing one near the beginning, I did hear about a few small restaurants along the hike, offering locally themed dishes like Inari sushi or kitsune udon (fox udon), both with fried tofu, said to be a favorite of foxes.

Close to the highest point of the climb, I found a restroom and was able to leave the rain if only for a few short moments. Then, it was on to the peak of Mount Inari.

Conquer Ichinomine

Arriving at the top of Mount Inari was a long time coming and a welcomed surprise. Ichinomine is the highest peak at 764 feet high and the location where the deity Suehiro Okami is worshiped. From there, I continued on the trail’s loop and began the descent.

On the way down it was possible to clearly see the writings on the torii gates. The donator’s name and the date of the donation are inscribed on the back of each gate. Donations begin around ¥400,000 or $2,855 USD for smaller gates and increase to over one million yen for a large gate, nearly $7,150 USD.

Another interesting fact is that the torii gates and their shiny coat of paint only lasts about five years up in the forest before it begins to deteriorate and need to be replaced or repainted. For that reason, when hiking you’ll see lots of “wet paint” signs along the path as there is always a handful in the process of being repaired.

To realize the significance of the torii gates and this shrine in particular, it’s best to understand that a Shinto shrine is where the kami, or Shinto god, dwells. And because different gods have influence over specific areas of life, worshipers will often go to a specific shrine to pray for good fortune in that area. Typical areas of mastery for kami include health, wealth, marriage, childbirth and success.

So, as previously mentioned, if one needs blessings in relation to fertility, agriculture, industry or general prosperity and worldly success, they are likely to visit Fushimi Inari and ask for help.

Pray at Gozendani Hohaisho

Known simply as Gozendani, the Gozendani Hohaisho prayer area is located on the northern part of the mountain of Inariyama. Located in the valley of where the three peaks meet, it’s an important location for visitors to pray and worship. In ancient times, two additional buildings existed there where worshipers would come to give offerings to the deity.

Famously, the Otsuka Taisai Ceremony is held at this sacred site every year on January 5. In anticipation for the Day of the Horse in February, which has been celebrated since ancient times, Nakakumi sake is poured into old Imado ware (Japanese pottery traditionally from Imado, Japan) and offered to the deity on a sacred stone called mikeishi.

Hatsu-uma, refers to the first Day of the Horse in February and was the day on which Inari Ōkami was enshrined in Inariyama. Hatsu-uma festivals are typically held at Inari-sha shrines and often considered one of Japan’s main festivals.

Offer Up at Okusha Hohaisho

The Okusha Hohaisho, more commonly known as Okuno-in, is a prayer building located in the valley east of the main shrine building at the end of the thousand torii gates. Visitors come to pray to the holy mountain of Inariyama, whose three peaks can be seen just behind the building. During the Edo period, the building was called Fukosho and Kumotsujo, meaning “offering place” but it was destroyed by a natural disaster in 1794 and rebuilt slightly larger than the original size. In 1975, the shrine building was moved to its current location with a prayer area in front.

In the back right-hand corner of Okusha Hohaisho is a pair of stone lanterns called kuurin. As legend goes, if you make a wish and pick up the top of the lantern and the stone feels lighter than you expect your wish will come true. If it’s heavier, your wish will likely not come true.

With that, my hike up and over Mount Inari and through thousands of brilliantly colored torii gates had come to an end. And it was even more magical than expected.

Devour Pork Dumplings

After such an enchanting experience, it was time to treat myself to some pork dumplings. Near the entrance of the shrine, food stalls offered all kinds of delicious snacks so I picked up some steamy broth filled pockets topped with scallions and soy, swallowing them up as quickly as possible.

After enjoying my dumplings, I left Fushimi Inari looking to warm up and sip on a hot drink. The soggy hike had thoroughly soaked my clothes and I had caught a chill.

Sip on a Hot Beverage at Vermillion Espresso Bar

Continuing toward the train station, I found a lovely coffee shop named Vermillion Espresso Bar & Info where I ordered a mocha latte and sat down to catch my breath.

The cafe was adorable with a dim romantic feel. Once I finished my drink and warmed up a bit, I jumped back on the train to Kyoto.

---

Map of Fushimi Inari Taisha