Medellín: The City of Eternal Spring
Welcome to Medellín! Nicknamed the “City of Eternal Spring” for its moderate temperatures and pleasant climate; I’d have to agree. It’s also the capital of Colombia’s mountainous Antioquia province and a perfect location to grow some of the best coffee in the world. Modern cable cars link the city to surrounding barrios and provide stunning views of the Aburrá Valley below. The area is also known for its influence on art, with sculptures by Fernando Botero in downtown's Botero Plaza and Museo de Antioquia displaying a variety of Colombian art.
My South American journey through Colombia and Ecuador began in Cartagena, where anyone can experience the electric feeling of the city. From there, I moved on to Medellín for a few fun filled days, then on to explore the valley of palms in Salento. At the southern edge of Colombia, I took a bus through the mountains, landing in Ecuador, where it's hard to breathe in the second highest capital city of Quito with day trips into Mindo to explore the cloud forests, butterfly gardens and chocolate bars and Otavalo to stand on the equator line and enjoy its volcano lakes. For flexibility, I had purchased one-way tickets, both into Colombia and out of Ecuador with plans to visit as many cities as possible along the way.
Favorite places to visit in Colombia
Contents
Land in Medellín
Feast on Local Cuisine at Shanti Cocina Vital
Join a Private Tour with Van Por Colombia
Breakfast at a Locals Home
Plunge Off a Roadside Bridge
Climb el Peñón de Guatapé
Explore the Quaint Little Town of Guatapé
Paraglide Over the City of Eternal Spring
Caffeinate at Al Alma Cafe
Land in Medellín
The flight from Cartagena to Medellín lasted an hour and is not to be taken lightly. As I flew into the valley, the views of the city from above were mesmerizing. The hills, mountains and valleys were every shade of green, thick and lush. Shockingly, nearly two and a half million people live in the nooks and crannies of these steep mountains.
And as I later learned, flights within Colombia are super cheap and easy to come by but don't plan on flying out of Colombia to a nearby country such as Ecuador. The prices are ten times the amount. You'll likely be stuck traveling over land which is great scenery-wise but takes a tremendous amount of time and is not for those with a weak stomach.
That evening, I checked into Sugar Cane Hostel and booked a day trip for the following morning. The owner recommended El Peñon in Guatapé, about a two hour drive. From past experience, I’ve learned there's no time to waste on planning. Ask your hostel what's best to do the moment you arrive so you don't miss out as activities tend to book quickly.
Feast on Local Cuisine at Shanti Cocina Vital
For a much needed meal I walked over to El Poblado and chose a really cute spot named Shanti Cocina Vital. Everything from the service to music, lighting and design was perfect. To recharge, I tried some green juice and the beef and octopus carpaccio.
It was wonderful and as Colombians would say, “Es muy rica!”
Join a Private Tour with Van Por Colombia
At 9 a.m. the following morning, Rafa and his counterpart arrived at the hostel in their Scooby Doo van and we were off. Rafa operates private tours with Van por Colombia around Medellín for a bit above average price-wise but it's worth every penny (I even tipped $20 USD at the day’s end). Honestly, I can say I've never had so much fun on a tour.
Typical tours bus 30-40 people around touristy spots and regurgitate facts and figures as needed. On the other hand, Rafa's group is smaller and more intimate, maybe a dozen, and is packed full of surprises and real authentic Colombian experiences along the way.
We zoomed around El Poblado picking up a dozen others, a Canadian, Argentinian, Dutch, American, Irish, among others and began the climb up and out of the valley. Rafa let us know we would be taking a longer route in order to see and learn much more. Count me in!
Almost immediately, out of nowhere, a young boy jumped in from the side of the road and began a live performance inside the van. Gratefully, I have to admit there are moments during my travels when I stop and think, "How did I get so lucky?" and this was surely one of those moments.
We all jammed out, joining in clapping along for some time until we pulled back over and the boy swiftly jumped out.
Breakfast at a Locals Home
Next up, we stopped by Rafa's home for a delicious spread of eggs with tomatoes and sauce, toast, guacamole, fruits, tea and coffee. It was such a special experience to be in a foreign country in a locals home eating a meal with other travelers.
As breakfast wound down Rafa told us to jump on top of his van so we could take a photo. Hesitantly, we all piled up there one by one, and I'm so glad we did. It's one of my favorite photos from this crazy adventure.
Next thing we know Rafa got into the van and began driving. Everyone held on for dear life shouting about their backpacks and sunglasses left behind. He slowly moved over the bumpy roads for a mile or so, whipping us in the face with trees and shrubs as we went.
The scenery from the top of the van was insane. As far as the eye could see everything was green and full of life. Huge puffy clouds brought dark shadows over the landscape but passed quickly letting the sunlight peaked through.
The van made a quick stop for some fruit which I thought was a new kind but turned out to be a type of passion fruit (granadilla in Spanish). Be sure to grab a bunch, they’re delicious.
Plunge Off a Roadside Bridge
Our van made its way to a local bridge where some of the group jumped off into the lake while others relaxed in the sun with a beer, courtesy of Rafa.
As we moved on, our van got stuck because of a dump truck filling with dirt. They were using a pulley system to carry the dirt across the river from a boat below. We waited until the truck was full of dirt and pulled away to squeeze through.
On our way to Gautapé we noticed the lake water was unusually green. Rafa told us the chemicals from boats spur algae but I'm not so sure I buy that story.
Climb el Peñón de Guatapé
After a morning already filled with so much adventure, we ultimately arrived at El Peñol. Just the sight of the rock was unbelievable and I was shocked to learn that we were going to climb over 700 steps to the top. The climb was a real struggle even though I had been working out nearly six days a week but altitude is tough. But at a cost of only $2 USD, it was worth it.
The views from the top were out of this world. Story has it the little islands were formed by purposefully flooding the area with Punchiná Dam creating Peñon-Guatapé Reservoir, a busy water-sports center. In any case, the colors from above were gorgeous shades of aqua and emerald green.
After an exhausting hike up and back down El Peñol our group met up with Rafa for a delicious meal prepared in the back of his van (talk about husband material). Rafa cooked pork, chicken and beef dishes, along with salad, lentils, rice, potatoes, olives, pickles, star fruit, broccoli and radishes.
The entire spread was super delicious and we all gobbled it up as quickly as possible.
Explore the Quaint Little Town of Guatapé
With full bellies, we were off to the tiny town of Guatapé. Guatapé is an Andean resort town in northwest Colombia, east of Medellín known for its charming houses decorated with colorful reliefs. Each house was adorned with icons representing their personal family traditions. It was interesting to see the diversity and kept me guessing.
Our group wandered the town in search of souvenirs and special treats. A few of us ordered coffee or tea and relaxed in the square where I bought a really fancy poncho. To remember such an exciting day we took a group photo.
After such an eventful day you'd think everyone would pass out on the way home but think again. Our two hour ride was full of partying in the Scooby Doo van (imagine loud Colombian music, high speeds and numerous beer stops). It was such an amazing time. The group, guide, food, sites, music, everything was perfect. Just before our arrival back into Medellín, one last stop to view the city lights from a vantage point. Simply magical.
Paraglide Over the City of Eternal Spring
The following day I jumped on board with a few others at the hostel going paragliding (a steep $75 USD but totally worth it). The tour arranged for our transportation up into the hills and we were off. The taxi zoomed back and forth through the busy streets and by the time we reached the high altitude for our jumping destination I was extremely nauseous.
One by one, we were strapped to an instructor and told to run off the edge of the cliff. As my time arrived, I did what I was told and began running toward the edge. Once up in the air the views of the entire valley were extraordinary. The instructor spent a few minutes recording with his GoPro and taking photos and then began to climb up and up and up, going slowly in circles as we caught the wind.
After about ten minutes, we began our descent. In total, we spent 20 minutes up in the air and honestly I was completely shocked I didn't barf all over everyone circling below. Perhaps, motion pills would have helped some. Also, be sure to check your SD card if you purchase the video and photos. My files were never able to open due to an error.
Caffeinate at Al Alma Cafe
Off to a new city just as soon as I enjoy a nice breakfast and a cup of café con leche at a super cute spot near my hostel called Al Alma Café.
With that it was time to head to the bus station. I had purchased a ticket to Salento costing 45,000 COP or about $15 USD. The ride was to begin at 11 a.m. and arrive at 6 p.m. in a medium-sized bus of 18 other passengers. The drive was beautiful but jarring. Our driver went as fast as humanly possible, weaving in and out of traffic, speeding over cliffs and around sharp corners. Unfortunately, I was stuck in the very back without any air in 90 degree heat and so happy to arrive in Salento, surprised we made it alive.
Sugar Cane Hostel
Sugar Cane Hostel offers a cozy home-like atmosphere about a ten minute walk from the craziness of the Poblado area (think Cancun spring break). Each morning is a serve yourself breakfast on the rooftop where you can use basic ingredients to whip up coffee, eggs and toast.
Rooms are simple but provide everything one needs. There are lockers to store more valuable items in the hallways and single bathrooms which are great. It was super clean and the staff was incredible. They were very helpful and knowledgeable about the local area (other than coffee shops which I found on my own). Try Al Alma Cafe just down the street. The food and coffee are both amazing and it's an adorable little spot.
If I had one complaint it would be the noise level. Although it's really nice to have someone at the door 24 hours a day the only way to enter was a loud buzzer (and I'm talking LOUD). I jumped out of bed a few times throughout the night. The owner did say he was working on changing the system to a quieter one.
An Andean town west of Bogotá, Salento is known for its coffee estates and sweeping scenery. To the East is Cocora Valley, where the world’s tallest palms dot the landscape. Rare parrots, poisonous mushrooms and iridescent hummingbirds can be spotted along many of the hiking trails.