El Tatio wakes before dawn, a high-altitude wonder tucked into the Andes of northern Chile. Perched above 14,000 feet, this sprawling geothermal field is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere and the third-largest geyser basin on Earth. As the chill of morning clings to the altiplano, more than 80 geysers punctuate the landscape with thin plumes of steam and bursts of boiling water — an otherworldly show that’s at its most magical in the pale light just after sunrise.