Galway, Ireland
Aran Islands & Cliffs of Moher thru Galway
Coined the “Emerald Isle” for its lush landscape, Ireland is the second largest island of the British Isles and the third in Europe. The Republic of Ireland occupies most of the island of Ireland, off the coast of England and Wales, with Northern Ireland resting in the northeast. Its capital city of Dublin is the birthplace of writers like Oscar Wilde and home to Guinness stout. Ireland is well known for its vibrant culture, including traditional music and dance, literature and pubs filled with whiskey and beer. The land is dotted with castles built by the Normans centuries ago, while today the Irish are known for warm hospitality, dark humor and Celtic traditions.
Galway is a harbor city on Ireland’s west coast that sits where the River Corrib meets the Atlantic Ocean. It’s famous for being the festival capital of Ireland, with over 120 festivals and events every year. The city’s heartbeat lies in its 18th century Eyre Square, a popular meeting spot surrounded by traditional pubs offering live Irish folk music and stone-clad art galleries, boutiques and cafes that line the windy cobblestone streets of Latin Quarter, which maintains portions of the medieval city walls. If this isn’t enough, Galway is also a great jumping off point for visiting some of the most diverse landscapes in the world, including the Cliffs of Moher and the Giant's Causeway.
With 10 days to explore Ireland, my first stop was Dublin, a city rich in history and friendly as can be, where I explored all Dublin had to offer. From there, Galway and Killarney were up next. While staying in Galway, I joined a day tour to the wonderful Aran Islands and Cliffs of Moher. Finally, I moved on to Killarney, where I’d chase sheep in the Gap of Dunloe, a narrow mountain pass running north–south in County Kerry that separates the MacGillycuddy's Reeks mountain range in the west from the Purple Mountain Group range in the east. And just before heading home, I squeezed in one last tour in Northern Ireland. UK's Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge and Giant's Causeway offered another wonderful experience exploring Ireland’s natural wonders.
Contents
Arrive in Galway
Explore Aran Islands by Horse & Carriage
Marvel at the Cliffs of Moher
Arrive in Galway
After a mix up in Limerick, I was happy to settle in at Kinlay Eyre Square Hostel in Galway. That night, I booked a day trip for the following morning to Aran Islands and Cliffs at Moher for €40. Initially, tours were cancelled due to the impending rainstorm but I didn't take no for an answer and was able to track down a tour company with plans to go ahead (thank goodness I did, the weather was gorgeous).
Ideally, it would have been much better to have the flexibility to stop and explore at my leisure but when I looked into renting a car in Ireland they only offered sticks, something I never quite mastered (other than a tractor) and especially not on the opposite side of the road. Make sure to plan ahead and keep in mind transportation in Ireland is pretty tricky. Everything is really spread out and far from public transit so renting your own vehicle may be helpful.
Explore Aran Islands by Horse & Carriage
After a good night’s rest I was ready for a full day of adventure. Our tour group gathered early in the morning near my hostel and boarded a large bus (not usually my preference but was the most bang for my buck). The bus drove about two hours toward the sea through Kinvara, Corcomroe Abbey, Corkscrew Hill, Lisdoonvarna and Doolin. The scenery was incredible along the way but I got a little nauseous weaving in and out of the windy hills.
Reaching Doolin, we boarded a double decker boat over to Inisheer Island. Assuming the top of the boat would have the best views was a mistake. Although the views were gorgeous, the water was rough, it swelled in and out as the boat swayed from side to side. Honestly, I thought I was going to slide right off the edge. The bumpy ride took 45 minutes and I was so happy to reach the safety of the shore.
Once on dry land, we were given the option to either explore the island on foot or pay a small fee for a horse and carriage. Short on time, I opted to pay €10 for a horse and carriage ride around the island. The tour lasted an hour and I was able to see much more by carriage than on foot.
A group of four older folks from Boston jumped into the carriage with me and we were off. McGregor, our horse, was quite the guide but a bit on the grumpy side.
The landscape was incredible along the way. Limestone walls cover the island and are hundreds of years old. They're made by hand without any mortar and traditionally used to divide land and keep ones sheep accounted for.
McGregor, took us across the island and over to a shipwreck where we explored on foot. The ship had hit the rocky shore in the 1980's while carrying liquor and never quite made it to the island in one piece.
Thankfully, we really lucked out and had a beautiful day on the island; I hadn't seen this much sun during my entire trip in Ireland, especially in Galway.
After a tour around the island we made our way back to the docking area to grab a bite to eat. I let it slip that it was my birthday and the group from Boston treated me to a cider at the pub. They were so kind and I do love cider from Ireland. Try Cooney's Cider if you get a chance.
Note, there are three Aran Islands so choose which to visit carefully. Inisheer, the smallest of the Aran Islands, is known for its charm and sure didn't disappoint. Our guide mentioned that most tours visit the largest island of Inis Mor but that it's not the best option. Inisheer seems to be a hidden gem.
Marvel at the Cliffs of Moher
On the way back from Inisheer, the lower deck of the boat was much more enjoyable. We slowly made our way over to the bottom of the cliffs to get a look from below, something not all tours offer but I was advised to do and boy, was it worth it. A really amazing point of view.
After landing back on shore, the group had a drink at a local bar and then traveled to the top of the Cliffs at Moher with an hour to wander. There are two paths to choose from: one on the right which offers better views of the cliffs while the path to the left overlooks a small castle atop the hill. I took off in a hurry in order to see both sides.
It was gorgeous in every direction but super windy so I'd recommend bringing a light coat and sunglasses up to the cliffs. A raincoat and umbrella might even be needed on cloudy days.
The path to the left it gets pretty hairy and a bunch of people were crossing over the barriers to take photos. Our guide had warned us that the cliffs aren't completely stable and to never cross the markers. So far this year there had been five people who plummeted to the ocean below.
It was unfortunate we didn't have all day to stay and relax. Taking in my last views of the cliffs, I made my way back toward our bus. If only we could stay for sunset, I couldn’t imagine the beauty.
The bus started back to Galway while we enjoyed the sunset from our seats. The ride took about two hours, driving along the coast passing castles and abandoned homes through Fanore Strand and Black Head.
We learned that during the Great Famine in the 1840's Ireland suffered from mass starvation, disease and emigration. The abandoned homes were from that time.
Ireland lost nearly twenty-five percent of its population when two million Irish either starved to death or moved away. To this day, Ireland honors those who lost their lives by keeping their vacant homes erect and punishing anyone who damages the remnants.
Our bus driver and tour guide offered a few recommendations for dinner back in Galway and a number of us ended up at Martine's for seafood. It was nice and the bartender, Joe, was fantastic. Sitting at the bar, chatting with others, drinking cider, Joe made me an Irish coffee for my birthday as well as a whiskey tasting with a few girls from the tour. On the menu was oysters, mussels and BBQ ribs. What a delicious treat to enjoy after such a long day.
Next up, it was off to Killarney where I’d try my hand hiking the Gap of Dunloe.
Chasing Sheep in the Gap of Dunloe
Killarney, Ireland
Kinlay Eyre Square Hostel
The staff, cleanliness and location are great at Kinlay Eyre Square Hostel. Those at the front desk were super helpful organizing tours and finding dining spots. I loved the Aran Islands & Cliffs tour - the one where you see the cliffs from below. If you can rent a car to get around you'll have even more flexibility.
Unfortunately, the hostel seemed more like a hotel turned high school. It's HUGE and overrun with teenagers shouting and running around on the main level. The kitchen is impossible to use. Showers are located in each room but I preferred ones at the end of the hall for privacy (hot water a plus). Cages for security are under each bed.
Known as the “Best Kept Town” in Ireland, Killarney is small and charming. It’s home to some of the most undisturbed landscape in the country, including the Ring of Kerry, a 111 mile circular route in southwestern Ireland.